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Jay-ZS+
07-02-10, 03:16 PM
A coolant additive ment to help aid radiator efficiency. Being on the Rimmers site would have thought it would be 'safe'.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-RX1461__473

Ritchy
07-02-10, 03:26 PM
sounds a bit hopeful i have to say, cutting warm up times in half? i doubt ud notice any difference in it! but never heard of it mate

Jay-ZS+
07-02-10, 03:32 PM
Yer id never heard of it just browsing their site and it was in the clearance section. Thought being on their site prob wouldnt be like some of these 'dodgy' additives

Ritchy
07-02-10, 03:41 PM
dunno mate think its a bit optimistic, these additives are never as good as they say they are, question would be why wouldnt the manufactures put this in the cars if it reduces warm up times ect, by 50%, just imagine it would do nothing much really possibly clean the system or somthing but if is it worth it? nah doubt it!

Jay-ZS+
07-02-10, 03:43 PM
yer wouldnt expect the stated results. My worry if it cleans the system where does all the crap go?!! Not going to bother with it not a fan of putting anything in the system that wasnt there when it left the factory,

Ritchy
07-02-10, 03:45 PM
yeah id just keep the oat in it:) is yer car still overheating or have ye sorted that now?:)

Jay-ZS+
07-02-10, 03:50 PM
Nope still steaming tried a different cap but wonder if the tread on the bottle is slightly warn so gonna get rimmers to put a tank on to the order of the new cap as well to rule that out. Its a weird one though!!

Ritchy
07-02-10, 03:53 PM
thermostat in the right way round? ehm take it fans are kicking in okay, temp sensor and wiring okay, put some block tester in it?

Jay-ZS+
07-02-10, 04:03 PM
Thermostats in right, got up to 3/4 on the temp gauge today then it dropped back to the 1/2 mark so guessing the fans had kicked in. It was block tested and came back clear.

Its just the steam from the cap/tank so new cap and tank and then see what happens. The old tank had split so little worried about why that had gone, pressure build up in the system?!

Ritchy
07-02-10, 04:20 PM
possible yeah, the caps are quite bad for failing on them, know some of the guys at work replace them as part of thier yearly service, the new tanks about £10 - 15 if i remember right id be cleaning all the connectors on the temp sensors as well so what was done to it when did it start over heating, is the waterpump working right ect

Jay-ZS+
07-02-10, 04:27 PM
possible yeah, the caps are quite bad for failing on them, know some of the guys at work replace them as part of thier yearly service, the new tanks about £10 - 15 if i remember right id be cleaning all the connectors on the temp sensors as well so what was done to it when did it start over heating, is the waterpump working right ect

All the pipes are getting hot so the pump must be pushing it around the system, The cap is about £12 the tank is £50ish!!!

Will look at temp sensor but thats down in the 'V' so bit of a pig to get too.
Doesnt over heat just get steam out the tank/cap. Other than that loving the V6 power / roar even if I was taking it easy

Ritchy
07-02-10, 04:33 PM
cap: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-25-45-200-AND-400-EXPANSION-CAP_W0QQitemZ200349950062QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Car sParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item2ea5c9a06e
used bottle: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ROVER-400-45-ZS-RADIATOR-COOLANT-EXPANSION-TANK_W0QQitemZ390099673752QQcmdZViewItemQQptZUK_Ca rsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM?hash=item5ad3c0a298

well if the temp sensors giving out the wrong resistance then the fans wont kick in at the right time, and the rest of the system will get warm as it will thermosyphone if the pump aint working though i doubt its broken but thought id add it in, youll see it flowing in at the top of the bottle anyways.

Jay-ZS+
07-02-10, 05:04 PM
Yer looked at that tank but think I will just get new then im sure theres not an issue with that. Plugged Daves scanguage in and the temp was coming back as in the 90s so the sensor is about right but would hurt to clean the connections as believe there are 2 sensors one for the ECU and one for the guage.

Ritchy
07-02-10, 05:25 PM
yeah but whats the actual temprature at? if the sensors giving an innacurate reading, i know what your saying about putting new parts on im the same but 50 is a lot as i remeber seeing one last year getting a new tank and it wasnt any more than £20 definatly not, not sure on the rates though.. if i had autodata just now id tel ya what the resistance should be, if ye give me 15 mins or so il dig out rave dvd n see if if it gives me a resistance value for one

KevG
07-02-10, 06:11 PM
05-20
COOLING SYSTEM - KV6 Engines
WARNING: Fans can start (or run on) for up to 4 minutes after the ignition is switched off.
Type Pressurised, spill return, thermostatically controlled water / anti-freeze
mixture
Cooling fans 2 x 11-blade variable speed electric cooling fans, ECM controlled
by PWM signal to electronic fan controllers
PWM duty cycle range 10 - 90%
Fans off PWM duty cycle = 10 - 49%
Cooling fans minimum speed 1300 rev/min @ 50% PWM duty cycle
Cooling fans maximum speed 3000 rev/min @ 90% PWM duty cycle
Cooling fan switching points - For A/C system:
⇒On When air conditioning is requested
⇒Fan minimum speed When A/C refrigerant pressure is less than 16000 kPa (16 bar,
232 lbf/in2)
⇒Fan maximum speed Refrigerant pressure at 27000 kPa (27 bar, 392 lbf/in2)
Cooling fan switching points (ECT sensor control) - for
engine cooling during normal running:
⇒Fan minimum speed switch on temperature 95°C
⇒Fan maximum speed temperature 114°C
⇒Fan switch off temperature 93.5°C
Cooling fan switching points - engine OFF soak Fans on for a maximum of 8 minutes
⇒On Coolant temperature exceeds 114°C
⇒Off Coolant temperature less than 112°C
Coolant pump Rotor type, mechanical, driven by camshaft timing belt
Coolant pump drive ratio 0.93:1
Coolant pump output @ 1000 rev/min. 0.5 litres / sec. (0.875 pts/sec)
Thermostat Wax element
Thermostat operating temperature:
⇒Initial opening 88°C ± 2°C
⇒Minimum opening - 9mm 96° C
Expansion tank pressure cap opens 1.4 bar

Ritchy
07-02-10, 06:23 PM
fan minimum switch on speed: 95 C
fan maximum speed temprature: 114 C
fan switch off temprature: 93.5 C
thermostat initial opening: 88 C
minimum openening 9mm at 96 C

i cant find the resistance values in rave anywhere, il see if autodata has them tomorrow i dont have autodata on my new laptop, are you sure theres no air in the system still?

Ritchy
07-02-10, 06:24 PM
well kev has all the info there that i was looking at on that page, was looking through the bulletins as well n couldnt find anything

Jay-ZS+
07-02-10, 06:28 PM
Cheers guys will double check the fans and temp sensors are all good. Will also bleed the system as with all this refilling would be worth double checking

talkingcars
07-02-10, 07:33 PM
Going back to your first post - I wouldn't bother, the K and KV6 warm up really quickly, like in 4 or 5 minutes of normal driving.

Having watched the ZS180 temp gauge against the scan gauge I notice that the neddle doesn't really start moving until the coolant reaches about 65'.

Supercharged_Z
07-02-10, 07:50 PM
sounds tricky.

you say its not overheating, but it is, its getting way above normal temps.

only twice have a seen a 180 get hot, that was supercharged and was on a track day, it merley went over the half mark, water wetter sorted the problem, but the problem was one that was expected.

have you changed your rad? could it be blocked? is the thermostat the correct one?

your car is obviously getting to hot, its nearest vent point is the highest and probably weakest the cap..

good luck finding it, sounds very strange

Jay-ZS+
07-02-10, 08:01 PM
good luck finding it, sounds very strange

Ummm starting to think it may not be straight forward after all :cry:

Ritchy
07-02-10, 08:15 PM
sometimes you do get bad thermostats but it sounds as though it is circulating from what your saying, the top and bottom hoses should be hot, youd maybe feel a blocked radiator by slowly feeling down it and feeling if any of the passageways feel blocked and are cold, if the coolant all of a sudden rises right up in the bottle it could be air in the system still, the fact that the fans are kicking in and out sounds like it is at least cooling it, but as i said if its overheating and the fans are kicking out you have to wonder whether what the temp sensor is telling it and whats really happening are true, hopefully autodata will tell me what resistance you should expect at hot and cold

p_b82
08-02-10, 09:45 AM
Sorry to hear that the Zs is looking like it is going to be a pain to track down the issue...

going back to your fisrt post, i can't remember if i had water wetter put in mine or not, or whether it just had a fresh batch of coolant once the mapping was dropped back.

From my understanding tho, most the time it should not make enough difference to make noticable difference in day to day driving..