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View Full Version : **The Definitive MG ZS T16 Conversion Guide**


carmadbaker
09-11-10, 07:18 PM
Okay guys and girls here it is, everything i know about the T16 ZS conversion. Sorry its taken so long but finding time has been tricky! I apologize if anything is wrong in the guide but just let me know and i'll change it :)
Mods please make this thread a sticky :)
I've obviously got the original PDF file but its too large to upload :( unless a mod can do something with it? here it is for now anyway :) for now you have to download it, its a safe site and i've used it many times before :)

http://dc180.4shared.com/img/MNokDapb/0.21706182369357485/MG_ZS_T16_Conversion.pdf (http://www.4shared.com/document/MNokDapb/MG_ZS_T16_Conversion.html)

thanks!

Jay-ZS+
09-11-10, 07:21 PM
Just picked up my first pair of glasses but will get the bin-noc-u-lars out to read this one! :laugh:

Hows the turbo coming on?

Edit: Just downloaded it, looks a cracking write up will print it off and read in full.

peterzs
09-11-10, 07:21 PM
Thanks for all the hard work doing this Dan, think you should have put a copywrite, thingy on it.

:yes::yes::yes:

carmadbaker
09-11-10, 07:24 PM
Running like a dream mate, just awaiting insurance docs so i can tax it lol i'll update my thread soon :)

Jay-ZS+
09-11-10, 07:26 PM
Awsome!! well done mate know youve put a hell of alot of time in it over the last year or so. Look forward to seeing it at the next meet!! :thumbsup:

BUCKYDEVIL
09-11-10, 07:34 PM
Great work Dan Glad to hear it's running nicely.
Been following you threads for quite a while now .
You've had amazing patience with this project.

carmadbaker
09-11-10, 07:36 PM
I promise i will update the thread soon :) lol im trying to get together the videos and pictures first and make one final huge post lol It'll be at the next meet mate don't you worry ;) hopefully run in and running spot on too..... i'll make sure people get some high powered thrill rides ;)

talkingcars
09-11-10, 07:51 PM
Hi Dan

I tried down loading the file but it want's me to start installing other stuff so I stopped.

If you want to email me the files ( j a m e s @ b a b e l f i s h . d e m o n . c o . u k (without the gaps) I'll see if I can uploaded a perminant copy to my website to save people having to do file downloads.

James

carmadbaker
09-11-10, 07:57 PM
All sent mate :) thanks again! that would be brilliant, i use mac so virus's are bottom of my worry list, didn't even think. cheers man :)

Jay-ZS+
09-11-10, 07:58 PM
I didnt have any issues James just needed adobe reader,

Just read through it Dan, very informative. Feel like getting the spanners out and having a go at mine! :)

carmadbaker
09-11-10, 08:05 PM
aaahhhh right!! could be that yeah :) didn't think of that lol
I make it sound so easy, lure you into a false sense of security ;) lol do it Jay!
Well if people want to have a go i do encourage them, its nice to have a car thats very different, and a T16 zs is certainly that! but who am i to be selfish and keep all my memory gold to myself? At least people have the information they need to decide with now :)

talkingcars
09-11-10, 08:11 PM
Dan

and it's arrived, it'll take me a few days to convert it, will let you know when it's up.

Jay

the site wanted me to upgrade to a premium version.

James

Bobdope2002
09-11-10, 09:14 PM
http://view.samurajdata.se/

You Can view the PDF file through this website

save to your hdd
then visit above site
open the file where it says browse
click view and bobs ya aunt no downloads of anything

HTH everyone

Ritchy
09-11-10, 09:23 PM
MG ZS/R45 T16 Turbo Conversion Guide
About Me:
Well my full name is Dan Baker, I?m 22 years old and from Kent in the South East. I?m a fully qualified electrical and instrument
engineer at a paper mill in Maidstone where I have been for the past 5 years. I?ve always been into my cars; they have always
intrigued me and been a huge passion of mine! I have had absolutely no official training in mechanics or car engineering; everything
I?ve learnt has been picked up from various sources and through getting stuck in and getting my hands dirty. Now that?s the boring
stuff over? the reason I?m writing this guide is to give a clear outline on how to convert an MG ZS or Rover 45 into a T16 Turbo
breathing monster! So lets get stuck in ;-)
My project:
Nearly 2 years ago I decided that I wanted to start a totally different project. Something not too tricky, but also something interesting,
super powerful, reliable and most of all discrete. I was toying with the idea of a Mitsubishi Evo 6 T.H; but I decided that anyone with
the right money could buy and drive one with little or no talent or skill. It was then I decided I wanted to build a car that I knew inside
and out, something that was a part of me that (and literally!) had my blood, sweat and tears poured into it. To cut a VERY long story
short? I started a T16 MG ZS project and decided to go the whole hog; I wanted the car to be more powerful than any Evo I could
buy for the same money.
Here?s a quick list of my zeds spec so far:
? 86mm Arias Forged pistons
? Re-bored block to suit pistons
? Pauter Forged rods
? Gas flowed/ported head
? Omex Series 600 ECU, 3 bar MAP sensor
? Custom one off wiring loom for aftermarket ECU, plug and play baby
? Heavy duty clutch, organic 350ft/lb capabable
? 660cc Injectors
? Piper 270 cams
? Vernier pulleys
? Standard engine rebuild parts! (shells, big ends, seals and gaskets)
? SPAX coilover suspension
? Klinger Up-rated head gasket and ARP head bolts
? Larger turbo, Garrett 3071r, 490bhp capable
? Custom built one off Tubular Manifolds with external wastegate
? Custom Turbo back exhaust system 2.5"
? Large front mount intercooler, pulsar modified.
? Lightened and balanced flywheel (6.9kg ish!)
? Magnecore leads
? NGK 2.8 bar capable plugs
? External trigger wheel setup
? 99mm ITG filter, 500bhp capable
? New oil pump with oil cooler
? Steel caged gearbox
? Quaife ATB Limited slip differential
? Gizzmo Boost controller
? Tial External wastegate
? Complete hard boost pipe kit
? Low coolant level setup
? Intercooler spray setup
? Wideband AFR (PLX)
? Nitrous Oxide direct port with progressive controller.
There?s plenty more but I genuinely have forgotten. I have got a few more bits to buy, but once its mapped and running? I will be
expecting NO LESS than 400bhp at 2 bar of boost. Anything more than that is a huge bonus. Here?s my project thread
http://www.rovertech.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=83&t=112491
Basics and Considerations:
This chapter is just a brief breakdown of the conversion and a few facts and ?think points? you should consider before starting your
project. Obviously the main reason for wanting the T16 engine in your ZS 45 is power, with a standard output of 200bhp the 2.0
Turbo T-series (or T16 whichever name you prefer!) soars above even some heavily modified ZS 180?s. The conversion itself isn?t
actually that hard to complete, (as you will hopefully see.) However you should consider a few point before even thinking of starting
the project, things such as insurance, cost, space, time, resources, assistance and perhaps even a road tax increase.
You need to think of all the above and work out a rough plan for each, set a cost limit..and stick to it. Make sure you have plenty of
room to do the work. If time is going to be a problem; then don?t start and never finish a project, it?s just a waste. Check with insurers
for when the cars finished, you don?t want a complete car that you can?t insure. And make sure it?s registered!! It?s easy enough to do
and barely affects the tax band.
Before you start also, you need to determine how far you want to go power wise, 200bhp? 250bhp? 300bhp? 400bhp? 500+bhp? The
more power you want the more time money and effort your going to need, the difference between 280bhp and 300bhp on these engine
is literally thousands of pounds, plus hour upon hour or labour. So from day one get it straight in your head what you want.
The Engine:
As I said in the previous chapter, the T16 has a standard 200bhp rating. However you have to remember that some of these engines
are coming close to 20 years old and most are 100,000 miles+. With this in mind most standard ?untouched? engines are probably a
little down on power and probably a little worse for wear! The early version of the T16 was the M-series, I?ve had no dealings with
this engine what so ever, I have no idea how similar or dissimilar it is to the T-series. So to play it safe? it?s worth looking for a Tseries
instead.
The T16 engine can be found in the following cars:
? Rover 220
? Rover 420
? Rover 620
? Rover 800
You will become quickly unpopular for ripping apart a perfectly healthy Rover for the engine and other components, especially for a
conversion. These days the above cars are becoming more and more rare, especially a clean one. Hence my advice would be to use an
engine/components that have already been stripped, in the worst case strip a car that is well past its sell by date and definitely very
unlikely to be refurbished or rebuilt.
Try to obtain as much of the engine as possible, some bits you may overlook which you need in future. Now is the time to rip the
engine part and either condition check it and put it back together, or swap all your old bits out for some brand new forgies.
Below I?ve assembled a bit of a tick list depending on power requirements as to what you may require. This is just a rough guide, I?ve
definitely missed some bits off that the more experienced modders can help with 
200bhp
The T16 was close to 200bhp from standard, technically it should be fairly close to that figure, however as I?ve said the age of these
engines does start showing through (especially in the heads!) so you may need to condition check the engine (i.e compression, HGF,
maybe a head rebuild, depends how far you wish to go.) For this figure you can use the standard Rover 620 intercooler and pipe work,
which not only saves a lot of money, but also is also very easily and quickly fitted. The T16 comes in 2 forms, wasted spark and
distributor ignition. A wasted spark setup means no distributor is present, only a coil pack. It tends to be more reliable and allows
greater head space for more BHP, however you will require a 4 gap (4 reference point) flywheel on your engine, a distributor setup is
as normal and will require a 2 gap flywheel.
250+bhp
To squeeze 230bhp from your old T16 again isn?t very hard to do, assuming that you?ve taken note of the above advice and your
engine is in good condition. You will be needing mainly a Garrett T28 turbo charger, this a effectively the next step up from the stock
T25 turbo charger, they require a little bit of modifying to fit (physically and pipe work wise) but it isn?t hard to do and is very
commonly done, all the parts are readily available.
Cold air feed for the turbo charger, whichever form you opt for the idea is of course to reduce restriction and obtain more cold intake
air. Of course an uprated head gasket and head stud kit would be of great use!
The exhaust system must be upgraded for the 230bhp+ boundary, I will explain in detail later about the exhaust system to suit a
ZS/45. However the basics still stand? free flowing and larger bore (not to large) will give you the extra ponies you crave!
Large Front mount intercoolers will aid the cold air flow of charge into the inlet manifold, larger doesn?t necessarily mean a lot more
BHP, the larger the charger and longer the pipe work the more the turbo charger has to work to fill them, hence you could suffer lag,
in most T16 applications this isn?t a huge issue but something to bare in mind when climbing the BHP ladder. Have an intercooler that
suits your specific aesthetic needs and offers the BHP advantage also.
Performance camshafts are quite drastic when hunting for this sort of figure but will definitely help.

More boost is of course the trick to getting more bhp from your engine. The standard T16 will attempt to obtain around 11-12psi (a
little lower at some points if I?m correct?) With the boost cut removed from the ECU (at 14psi the ECU struggles to fuel for the
amount of boost, hence it cuts ignition) this feature can be removed from the ECU to allow more boost to be put through the engine.
With more boost being forced into your engine additional fuel is now required to prevent detonation or damage, for little cost this can
be done by adding an adjustable fuel pressure regulator, with this device you can up the pressure applied to the injectors, therefore
more fuel is being pushed through in one pulse. This (if set up correctly) will allow the use of a little more boost. The addition of a
good reputable boost controller will be a good idea, a cheap ?ebay? trick may do the job, but a quality product from a good supplier
will do the job 10 times better, either the form of a bleed valve or electronic controller.
Bearing all of the above in mind? T16 engines are either hit or miss; there are reports of a standard (internally) T16 running close to
300bhp. But there have also been reports of rods and pistons giving up at around 230-240bhp, so it really is a game of luck. Therefore
my recommendation would be to ATLEAST have forged pistons fitted. There are many kinds available varying in price but obviously
budget depends on quality.

Ritchy
09-11-10, 09:24 PM
300+bhp
You will be requiring all of the above plus the additions of forged con rods, again budget dependant.
The T28 turbo charger shouldn?t have much of a problem reaching the 280-290bhp level of power, but past this point you will need to
think about a bigger roller bearing charger, such as a GT30 in a T25/T28 case. The Garrett GT3071R is capable of flowing 400bhp
easily. Remember the larger the turbo the more the lag (in effect!)
At this point the need for aftermarket management is upon you, companies like Omex, DTA and Motec will be more than happy to
help you with whatever you require, they can advice you specifically for your needs and car as apposed to me speaking in general.
This obviously brings with it larger high impedance injectors which can be adjusted via the map to get the correct AFR.
Considerations for a little work on the cylinder head would also be a good idea; gas flowing and porting carries its advantages
although perhaps not adding BHP by itself.
To reach this figure the likely hood of needing a tubular manifold setup is high, you can either modify a manifold yourself, or simply
buy one to bolt on with little or no agro.
400+bhp
Again as before, however from here on in you really need to start making sure your engine is a top health. At this level the quality of
the previously chosen items will be crucial, cheap rods and pistons may be okay at lower levels but at 400bhp+ only the best will do.
Considerations for an aftermarket inlet manifold should be top of the list, also a throttle body to match. The boost piping and exhaust
will need to be larger to accommodate for the flow of gasses in each path. A heavy amount of mapping on the aftermarket
management will be required which can be time consuming.
If your feeling particularly silly, then nitrous oxide will also bump up your figures! But that?s a different story all together.
Engine Mounts:
The main thing to remember when carrying out a ZS/45 T16 conversion is that 90% of the work has already been carried out on
another car, from standard!! The car below is a 1995-1999 Rover 400 2.0 GSI, this car was fitted with the T-series, however the
engine was naturally aspirated, on the outside the T-series NASP (naturally aspirated) and turbo are virtually identical (minus a turbo
obviously!)
At this point you need to decide whether to buy a complete, but very tired 400 GSI and break it for the parts, or source the parts
individually. As this guide goes on you will see the parts you need to decide yourselves what you require.
The Rover 400 and MG ZS/R45 are all the same car, they share the same chassis, most body panels, most internals etc. However for
now we just need the engine mounts. To mount the T-series are 3 brackets and supports. One to the left which bolts to the block
through the cam belt run, one which mounts the gearbox to the chassis on the far right of the engine bay, and a stabiliser at the back of
the engine which runs almost parallel with the exhaust. You will require all 3 of these brackets. You will find when bolting these
brackets into your ZS/45 that the holes already exist for them, (that is how similar these cars are!)
You do not require any welding, drilling, tapping or general bodging to get the engine into your zed. It?s all there ready for you.
Wiring
Even as an electrician I found the idea of car wiring very scary. However if I knew then what I know now?I could of saved myself a
lot of time and agro.
The easy but expensive method:
Now?this is where I wished I had a REALLY helpful guy like myself (and a great guide to follow)?. However I didn?t! I learnt the
hard way? So here is the key to a VERY easy wiring job for the conversion. I mentioned before about using aftermarket
management on the T16 for power, well as well as additional power and control an aftermarket engine management can make your
life extremely easy. If you speak to the guys at Omex they can supply and build an Omex 600 ECU and a complete pre-built plug and
play wiring loom for the T16 engine. In effect this means that you can give your Omex ECU a permanent 12v, a switched 12v and an
earth, then plug the loom into all the various sensors/components and it will run?. Obviously you need to hook up the starter motor
and alternator (from your standard loom) but you no longer require the original engine management loom. The beauty of this is that
you can use the standard V6 or 120 starter and charging loom.. And that?s it! No more messing about. Obviously you have the cost of
mapping and all the additional add-ons required with the aftermarket management, but the ease and simplicity of this is unreal.
The hard but cheap method:
The hard method has so got its name because of the amount of work physically required; it?s a real pain! But its virtually fool proof.
(no doubt there are easier ways than I?m about to describe but this is how I done it!) This is where really you need to decide on
whether or not to buy a complete 420GSI, the main reason being that your going to have to take the front wiring loom from it. The
loom you want basically controls all of the electrical items (including engine) from the dashboard onwards. It looks after the lights,
windscreen wipers, ABS, and so on. Now I know it sounds like a lot of work, and your right, but I am an electrician by trade and I
know how pants soldering and crimping cables can be, therefore a complete loom with minimal joints in my eyes is a far more
reliable and viable option.
To remove the loom you don?t necessarily need the dashboard out, it would make life a lot easier but it depends how bothered you can
be. The loom runs right from the front of the car (i.e. horn, fans, fog lights etc) up either side of the engine bay and through 2
grommets each side of the bulkhead, the passenger side loom then runs along the back of the bulkhead (inside the car) and towards the
fuse and relay box underneath the steering column. It really is a case of labelling EVERYTHING you unplug (and positions if you
wish) then unplug all the bits as you go and pull the loom through the car. The ?cut off? point is 2 orange flat plugs down under the
carpets in the driver?s foot well. This being the original ZS loom for the back of the car. The 400 loom will plug straight into these.
The 2 fuse boxes I believe are slightly different, for the sake of a 2 minute swap job for the 400 ones its worth doing to save the
aggravation. Remember to be careful with every single cable when pulling it through the car, it only takes a cable to be shaved back
and it can cause no end of problems. The loom in the cab will plug into all of your original switches and importantly the 5AS unit in
the centre console.
The only plugs that require changing are strangely enough the windscreen wiper plug (I have no idea why?! Why change it it?s the
same motor!) And the headlight plugs, which is a half hour job and easy enough to do. If you need specific details give me a shout
and I?ll help as best I can.
This loom will then plug into a turbo loom, which you would require anyway from the 220 I believe. It?s a time consuming job but
fairly straight forward, my top tip would be to label everything clearly. Don?t forget all of the earth points!! They are very important.
Make sure they all go back.

Ritchy
09-11-10, 09:24 PM
ECU
The ECU for your turbo conversion is another big breaking point, if you decide for aftermarket then good on you, its worth the money
and you can obtain amazing results. For those that wish to stay on standard management, there are a few things you need to check
before trying to fire up your car. Firstly make sure you have the correct ECU for your engine setup (4 gap or 2 gap flywheel, see
above.) For ease it?s sometimes better to send the ECU away for decoding. This means it no longer requires a signal from the 5AS
unit and therefore doesn?t require security authorisation, this obviously means you lose your immobiliser. The same company will
also remove the boost cut and run diagnostic checks to ensure the ECU is in good health. Other than that it can just be plugged in and
run! With the ECU decoded you can use any 5AS unit, namely the one that controls your standard central locking.
Drive shafts
I had 2 pairs of drive shafts, one from a 420 GSI and one from a ZS 180? and to be perfectly honest I found no major differences
what so ever. The only slight difference was in the reluctor rings; which deal with the ABS side of things and are easily swapped over.
Double check on that but I?m confident that?s correct.
Gearbox
The gearbox that comes on the T16 is of course the famous PG1 that most MG/Rovers are equipped with. Some turbo PG1 boxes
have Torsen LSD?s which comes in very handy when traction is a problem. A recommendation would be to have the gearbox rebuilt
complete with steel caged bearings. They can be particularly fragile.
Power Steering
Believe it or not power steering gave me more agro than anything else, simply because I could not find the correct pipes, I ended up
having to get some specially made (not cheap!) so grab all of the power steering pipes from a 420 GSI also to save yourself the pain I
had.

Again these can be a bit of a pain to find, however there are companies that can sell a complete set of stainless and silicon water pipes
at a reasonable price. Some pipes are different to that in the 420, hence it?s easier to just buy the turbo specific set of water pipes. If
that fails you will definitely need the front coolant pipe and rail from a turbo rover to feed the turbo charger, don?t forget the turbo
charger requires cooling water too.
Radiator
The radiator you chose will depend upon a few key points, such as intercooler piping. My intercooler pipe work runs straight over the
top of the radiator, hence why I have the 220 radiator in my car to give me the space to do this. However if this is not a problem then a
standard ZS/45 radiator will do the trick no problem.
Exhaust
For the most simple conversion a 620ti down pipe will suit the application fine, also a standard ZS cat back system will do the job,
however the cat or decat (whichever you chose) will need extending by a few inches to pair up. Again if your handy with a welder its
an easy job. Of course after market performance down pipes are available as well as performance cat back systems to whichever your
heart desires. For something further (and more expensive) than that, you can give your car to a specialist exhaust fabricator who will
build your exhaust system to whatever spec you like. Again, worth the money if you have it. The same goes for the exhaust manifold.
Brakes
With more power comes the need for greater stopping power, whether it?s a complete brake upgrade to AP racing 330mm 4 pots or a
simple pad a disk upgrade, you should decide what is suitable for your expected BHP output.
Suspension
Standard ZS suspension doesn?t have a problem with the weight of the T16. But consider a coil over upgrade to get the ultimate
handling to compliment the T16 power potential. Plenty of companies can supply them however SPAX I know for sure are weighted
perfectly for the T16 engine on the front of a ZS.
Contacts
Here are a few different contacts that you might find useful for various stages in your project:
Grant Baker
Can sell you absolutely anything upgrade (and standard wise) for the T16 as well as piles of other equipment and toys! He is a top
bloke and cant help you enough if you get stuck at any point, highly recommended.
www.gb-ent.co.uk
Alan Baker
Deals with the Omex ECU?s. He dealt with my Rover Omex conversion throughout and really knows his stuff.
http://www.omextechnology.co.uk
Drew
Again sells T16 parts as well as the engine management, top fella and really helpful.
http://www.roverdose.co.uk/
Best of British
Will decode and diagnose your standard ECU
http://www.slashformayor.webspace.virginmedia.com/
Rovertech
The most helpful forum for Rover turbo?s on the net, no end of helpful and brilliant people. Sign up and get involved!
www.rovertech.net
The MG ZS.co.uk
Again its full of very knowledgeable people who have no problem with helping  very friendly bunch.
www.themgzs.co.uk
Elite
Will build you custom driveshafts to suit your high application turbo cars
http://www.eliteracingtransmissions.com
Me  (Dan Baker)
Can help with most things; don?t hesitate to drop me a e-mail and I will not hesitate to help where possible!
carmadbaker@hotmail.com
Finale!
Well there?s a quick guide for you to fish through and take the info you want and need. Any mistakes or false information please let
me know and I?ll rectify it straight away  enjoy!

peterzs
10-11-10, 09:24 AM
Wow, feel knackerd just reading about it, hat off to Dan, cant wait to see it.

:thumbesup: :thumbesup: :thumbesup:

Steves Cleenz
10-11-10, 09:35 AM
look forward to seeing this ;)

stamford
10-11-10, 11:31 AM
Excellent guide Dan, looking forward to seeing the finished project.

p_b82
10-11-10, 01:23 PM
Nice one...

looking forward to seeing hear and getting a ride at some point :)

rakester
10-11-10, 01:26 PM
sweet guide,

Only bit I'm confused about as regards using a R400 GSI (non turbo T series) as a donor car is that can that engine be easily converted into a turbo lump? If so what parts are needed?

carmadbaker
10-11-10, 03:51 PM
Technically yes, i believe the differences are the pistons, rods, cams , oil outlet in the block for the turbo, sump pan (oil return for the turbo) engine wise. It mounts exactly the same etc! They are the same externally and its only the turbo that gives it away, but there are differences beneath.

Ritchy
10-11-10, 03:59 PM
it certainly is some write up dan, very impressed, maybe some more people will consider the t16 route now

rakester
10-11-10, 04:37 PM
Technically yes, i believe the differences are the pistons, rods, cams , oil outlet in the block for the turbo, sump pan (oil return for the turbo) engine wise. It mounts exactly the same etc! They are the same externally and its only the turbo that gives it away, but there are differences beneath.


Thanks for the reply :)

Hm so really if using a 400 as a donor car the only bits needed from it are the engine mounts and wiring loom? (from reading your guide)

Also when dropping it into a ZS I presume the ZS would have to been a 180 originally or else some of the parts already on the ZS won't work if it started off life as a K engined ZS (driveshafts etc)

Sorry for all the questions, just very serious about doing this conversion and trying to figure out the best way to go about it all :)

Drew
10-11-10, 07:16 PM
sweet guide,

Only bit I'm confused about as regards using a R400 GSI (non turbo T series) as a donor car is that can that engine be easily converted into a turbo lump? If so what parts are needed?

the only parts you would need are pistons (get some forged while its out) and the sump. the later blocks have the oil feed in the block, its got a blank in it.
everything else is the same/can be used.

Drew

WXM Matty
11-11-10, 01:52 AM
the only parts you would need are pistons (get some forged while its out) and the sump. the later blocks have the oil feed in the block, its got a blank in it.
everything else is the same/can be used.

Drew

Even on a 120 or is that a different story?

Drew
11-11-10, 06:09 AM
sorry mate i was talking about the T series engine in the 420mk2.

Drew

rakester
11-11-10, 05:10 PM
the only parts you would need are pistons (get some forged while its out) and the sump. the later blocks have the oil feed in the block, its got a blank in it.
everything else is the same/can be used.

Drew

Ah sweet, you have helped me out so much the past couple of weeks. You really know your stuff, appreciated :)

Drew
11-11-10, 07:14 PM
Of course an uprated head gasket and head stud kit would be of great use!

thats in the 230bhp section. there is no uprated gasket and head studs are generally needed for over 18psi as it lifts the head. id put that in the 300+bracket.

gas flowing and porting carries its advantages although perhaps not adding BHP by itself

porting adds power all over the rev range, its not as good on a turbo as a nasp as the air is forced in but its said to be 15% gain on a nasp and 5% gain on a turbo.

ive not seen anyone with an aftermarket inlet manifold (except myself ;) ). most use an M series inlet with the throttle body re-positioned to open the restrictive part of the manifold.

Drew

carmadbaker
12-11-10, 07:19 AM
thats in the 230bhp section. there is no uprated gasket and head studs are generally needed for over 18psi as it lifts the head. id put that in the 300+bracket.



porting adds power all over the rev range, its not as good on a turbo as a nasp as the air is forced in but its said to be 15% gain on a nasp and 5% gain on a turbo.

ive not seen anyone with an aftermarket inlet manifold (except myself ;) ). most use an M series inlet with the throttle body re-positioned to open the restrictive part of the manifold.

Drew

cheers dude i'll adjust accordingly thanks :)

ah ha! thats where i also have an aftermarket inlet on route :P custom designed from lloyds specialist developments ;) i'll take some snaps wen it arrives

talkingcars
13-02-11, 12:06 AM
and perhaps even a road tax increase.


Car tax is primarly based on age and then either capacity or CO2, anything before 1st March 2001 is based on capacity, anything over 1549cc is currently ?205pa, the good news is this rate can be applied to the age of the vehicle OR the engine, which ever is the oldest!

Din
25-03-13, 08:17 AM
I read somewhere that the hubs and driveshafts where different ? ie you needed the 420 ones ?

Or is that only if your are converting a 1.8 ?

Its the loom im not looking forward too, seeing as im going down the "hard but cheap" route :cool1:

The only other thing im not sure about yet.. so lets say i have fitted the bay loom from the 420 complete, then why do i need a 220 loom for the engine ... or is that if fitting a dizzy lump ?

Being a wasted spark Ti lump, is it not possable to simply use the 420 gsi engine loom ?

Im sure i will answer my own questions in time lol, just keep thinking about it !

Great guide though,it was this guide that made me hunt for a 420 complete tbh, loom, pas pipes etc etc,sod looking for all that on ebay or scrap yard hunting.

petet16
25-03-13, 08:28 AM
I think the hubs are the same, but you might need to use the zs cv joints on the 420 shafts, the reason for this is the different abs rings, the 420 is most likely 27 teeth and the zs 42 or 43 (can't remember which) lol, worth checking the 420 ones though they may be good to use as they are.

Din
25-03-13, 08:41 AM
Hmm, so 420 driveshafts with zs 180 outer cv joints ? that would be good as the zs i have has brand new outer cvs fitted lol, and then i dont have to faff swapping the abs rings either lol.

petet16
25-03-13, 08:49 AM
Yes, might as well try and use all the new bits off both cars where possible.