Gearchange issue

[Mr ZS180]

I mentioned in my Santa Pod thread about issues with my shifting with it not being able to go into 2nd or 3rd quickly after a couple of runs.

I have seen this 'Sheddist clutch' kit about and was wondering if this would possibly solve my problem as I dont really understand what it does?

Any help is as always most appreciated!!!! :)

[Bobdope2002]

no i fount on my 180 that 1st and 2nd wudnt change quick at all that was with a sheddist kit too

[lawrence-zs180]

Its a Civic derived hydraulic clutch system built by a guy called Nigel (Sheddist) that uses a custom bracket that the slave is bolted to.. super strong and easy to fit, even uses copper piping.
You can find im on XPF and .ORG but be ready for a wait.. some have been dont in weeks and some are still waiting for replys.

Oh and mine is pissing about on those gears even with the kit to... so gonna try some bits on my days off to cure it.

[Mr ZS180]

Ok thanks for the info guys. I gotta get it sorted though as I need a swift gearchange.

Im just wondering if my clutch has anything to do with it an is there a paddle clutch available for the Zed?

[lawrence-zs180]

kesteral do a kevlar one for ?350 irrc and I think... I have always wondered if the paddel clutch off a 220 turbo would work because they run the pg1 box.

[Mr ZS180]

kesteral do a kevlar one for ?350 irrc and I think... I have always wondered if the paddel clutch off a 220 turbo would work because they run the pg1 box.

ok complete noob question coming up but does the zs have a pg1 box the same as the 220 turbo then. I had a paddle clutch on my 220 and changing gear was awesome but cant remember the make. Also, i remember having my box rebuilt with steel internals or something (cant remember exactly it was 7 years ago lol) to make it stronger. is this something the zs one needs?

[lawrence-zs180]

The 120 and 180 zeds have pg1's none had the type b diff or steel cage bearings.. I think.. but some of the 220's did irrc.. some of the guys on here have had it done, I'm looking at doing for when I get my lightweight flywheel done, not cheap though.

[Mr ZS180]

The 120 and 180 zeds have pg1's none had the type b diff or steel cage bearings.. I think.. but some of the 220's did irrc.. some of the guys on here have had it done, I'm looking at doing for when I get my lightweight flywheel done, not cheap though.

Steel cage bearings that was it! Cost about 140 quid iirc. Whats a type b diff? The LSD that the 220 turbo had?

[lawrence-zs180]

Yea that's it.. torsen and quaffe (which is sooo not spelt right) make them.

[ZS]

I have steel caged bearing and the Type B LSD in my box... (yes the torsen from the tomcat)

And I have a sheddist kit... still have issues in first and second sometimes... However I think, as the car has done 102,000 miles ish, that the UJ on the selector shaft is worn... that plus the stabaliser bar is shafted :p

So... When I get a chance I'll fix the UJ with a stearing wheel UJ from a Fiesta, Ka or ZR and then get the sheared off bolt removed and refit the stabaliser bar correctly (currently its fitted with a custom bracket to allow it to work!)

[Maxfly]

First point to try is plenty of lube on the release arm as these seize up and not many folk keep them moving freely. Makes a big difference even with sheddist kit fitted:)

[Mr ZS180]

Well had a look at the slave cylinder today and got the missus to press the clutch down whilst i watched and it seems there was quite a bit of movement in the cylinder and it didnt actually move the arm until the silver nut shaped thing that connects the hose to the cylinder (I have NO idea what this bit is called!!) actually pressed against the bracket.

I tried to hold the cylinder in place while she pressed the clutch in place again and this caused the plastic to snap around the cylinder, so I think a Sheddist is definitely needed now, plus I will try Maxflys idea too as the arm seems a bit stiff!

[ZS]

Well had a look at the slave cylinder today and got the missus to press the clutch down whilst i watched and it seems there was quite a bit of movement in the cylinder and it didnt actually move the arm until the silver nut shaped thing that connects the hose to the cylinder (I have NO idea what this bit is called!!) actually pressed against the bracket.

I tried to hold the cylinder in place while she pressed the clutch in place again and this caused the plastic to snap around the cylinder, so I think a Sheddist is definitely needed now, plus I will try Maxflys idea too as the arm seems a bit stiff!

Where are you based? I have a spare slave bracket (and an OE setup) if you need it to get the car on the road till the sheddist kit turns up?

I also have bits n peices of a sheddist kit... but not got the bracket from said kit...