your opinions

[pete mufc bowker]

theres a mk1 02 plate silver 180 been parked up some1's drive way for along time, anyway knocked on the door and he is saying it has no keys, but has all the paper work, its been sat for a year and a half, so no tax or mot, but im in need of a inlet manifold, and rear brake disks, and prob a few other none important bits, do u think its worth 250 and how hard would it be to get new keys for it, or would i have to change the ignition barrel and door locks, and how do i get round the immobliser if i do that, will i need the ecu of the car i get the barrel and locks from
many thanks pete:wacko:

[stamford]

Are you buying it to break or to sell on as a possible runner? If buying to break, can you get into it? If so why not drill the ignition barrel off to remove the steering lock in order to get it mobile? Otherwise you'll need matched parts to get it running again, assuming it will. I would do a partial strip to make sure it can crank over before attempting to fire it up.

[pete mufc bowker]

Are you buying it to break or to sell on as a possible runner? If buying to break, can you get into it? If so why not drill the ignition barrel off to remove the steering lock in order to get it mobile? Otherwise you'll need matched parts to get it running again, assuming it will. I would do a partial strip to make sure it can crank over before attempting to fire it up.

i just want the inlet manifold and rear disks of it, and then was going to ebay the rest, it aint a problem moving it, had to deal with cars with no keys before (all legal), but it looks a tidy car and would like to hear it running ect, i like the coulor silver over my green:wacko:, but if i was to change the ignition barrel would i need the ecu of the car the new barrel came from to make the imboliser deactivate, or do i have to get the key re programmed, but i aint got no other key or manuel with code or owt, so im abit baffled

[MG ZS STE]

Seems like an expensive way of obtaining second hand plenum and rear disks to me. A year and half stood, bet the discs look like they've just been dredged up from the bottom of the ocean.

[stamford]

You would need all keys, locks and fobs matched to the ecu so the immobiliser works as it should. You can get them re-programmed but best done as a whole kit of parts.

[peterzs]

What about ZS's car, would that have the keys/ecu????????????

[pete mufc bowker]

Seems like an expensive way of obtaining second hand plenum and rear disks to me. A year and half stood, bet the discs look like they've just been dredged up from the bottom of the ocean.

the disks look fine, not a spot of rust on them, and i was thinking the cost of a new plenium, inlet manifold and vis, will amount to alot more than the cost of the whole car, plus if i dont end up selling the rest of the parts on ebay then i would just weigh it in for 140-160 pound, meaning, i got my disks, plenium, vis's, inlet manifold and a few other bits for 110 pound, which to me seems preety cheap

[pete mufc bowker]

You would need all keys, locks and fobs matched to the ecu so the immobiliser works as it should. You can get them re-programmed but best done as a whole kit of parts.

so could i take my barrel/ecu of my zs and put them on the silver zs and it should in theroy start??

[stamford]

so could i take my barrel/ecu of my zs and put them on the silver zs and it should in theroy start??

I guess so. However take into account old fuel, possibly contaminated including fuel filter, mositure in the engine? Like I said before I would partially strip the engine to expose the bores, lube them, remove the fuel pump relay and then crank it over until the oil light goes out, then think about trying to start it, assuming the fuel is okay.

[pete mufc bowker]

I guess so. However take into account old fuel, possibly contaminated including fuel filter, mositure in the engine? Like I said before I would partially strip the engine to expose the bores, lube them, remove the fuel pump relay and then crank it over until the oil light goes out, then think about trying to start it, assuming the fuel is okay.

i get what your saying, and all that will be done, it was just the key/immobliser that was worrying me, off subject, i smashed 1 of my cars up a few years back, and my mum had a p reg 1.6 vtec civic that had been sat on the drive for over 5 years, full of green crap all over it and stunk of damp, i drained the dregs outta the petrol tank, drained the oil and radiator, replaced them all, baught 4 crappy wheels and a new battery, and it started 3rd turn of the key, it blew all the cotton wool lookin stuff outta the exhaust, and there was alot of it, it passed the mot with flying colours and lasted me over a year, now thats what u call build qualty, hope this mg turns out the same lol

[Ritchy]

rear discs are pretty cheap new, if the second hand discs have been sat for over a year not moving they will be pretty rusted and pitted likely, and the plenum isnt guaranteed to be okay either, sounds a lot of effort for not a lot of parts, need to remove the shear bolts from the column to get the ignition barrel out, can get it started by sjust swapping the 5as over with your fob next to the rear switch and remove the switch from rhe back of the barrel, but you still need to take the shear bolts out to take off the steering lock

[pete mufc bowker]

rear discs are pretty cheap new, if the second hand discs have been sat for over a year not moving they will be pretty rusted and pitted likely, and the plenum isnt guaranteed to be okay either, sounds a lot of effort for not a lot of parts, need to remove the shear bolts from the column to get the ignition barrel out, can get it started by sjust swapping the 5as over with your fob next to the rear switch and remove the switch from rhe back of the barrel, but you still need to take the shear bolts out to take off the steering lock

starting to get put of this now, but the guy said it had no rattles and was running perfect, it got parked up coz he got an evo 7, and its just been sat there ever since, again the rear disc aint got no rust on them, its got 4 standerd mint wheels, with good tyres, full exhaust looks mint, and my main reason to want to buy is the inlet manifold/vis/plenium, driver sunvisor, rear door handle, that little compartment near your right leg on drivers side and the componet that makes my internal fans/heater work on 1, 2, 3 and not just 4 he is adimant it wernt sounding knackerd, my vis's are ok on mine so there not an issue, it might even be worth reparing and putting on road, but how much would i look to buy a new barrel lock set and ecu, or can some company make me a new key and fob for the oe ignition im sure ill be able to brake the car and earn my money back that way even if the manifold turns out to be goosed, plus u get 140-160 for weighing them in, so at the most if i dont brake it and the manifold turns out to be goosed, ill only be 100 pound outta pocket, which aint that bad, gotta be worth a try i think, considering, the inlet manifolds are 500 brand new or 100-200 from a scrappers which inturn could be goosed

[Ritchy]

its up to you at the end of the day

[pete mufc bowker]

its up to you at the end of the day

i know, but i need the advise of you guys, im not made of money and i dont wanna end up bumming myself

[Ritchy]

personally wouldnt bother get a car running so i could take it home to break it, doesnt make sense, take its got no mot so cant drive it on the road anyway legally unless your going to a mot station, and you still need insurance for that

if i wanted it to break id just go round, remove column cover and knock the shear bolts out and remove the barrel, then get it pushed on a trailer, if your intent on taking it on the road id just tow it without the barrel off it, and just turn the igntion on off the switch, wont start but indicators will work ect

[pete mufc bowker]

personally wouldnt bother get a car running so i could take it home to break it, doesnt make sense, take its got no mot so cant drive it on the road anyway legally unless your going to a mot station, and you still need insurance for that

if i wanted it to break id just go round, remove column cover and knock the shear bolts out and remove the barrel, then get it pushed on a trailer, if your intent on taking it on the road id just tow it without the barrel off it, and just turn the igntion on off the switch, wont start but indicators will work ect

my m8's got a toe truck, and me mrs's dad has got a arch in town, so moving and storing aint a prob, im 50/50 after speaking to u guys, but for 250 can u really go wrong

[Ritchy]

if its mint then personally id buy it, get a second hand barrel set and matched 5as and fobs ect, good service and mot it for £25 and punt it at around 800,

[pete mufc bowker]

if its mint then personally id buy it, get a second hand barrel set and matched 5as and fobs ect, good service and mot it for £25 and punt it at around 800,

how much would i pay for barrel and matched 5as (what is that???) and fobs ect, i dont wanna sell it if its mint, ill sell my green 1, like the silver colour more

[Ritchy]

have a look on ebay, or a breakers, cheap enough, dont bother with them if your just breaking it though, makes zero sense, just push it

[pete mufc bowker]

have a look on ebay, or a breakers, cheap enough, dont bother with them if your just breaking it though, makes zero sense, just push it

i wanna keep it if its good, is there no way of getting a replacment key fob and key from rover/mg??

[Ritchy]

dont think so, would need at least a t4 session to code in new fobs and it would be cheaper to buy a new secondhand lock set, might find some super locksmith who can read the barrel but will likely still need it off

[pete mufc bowker]

dont think so, would need at least a t4 session to code in new fobs and it would be cheaper to buy a new secondhand lock set, might find some super locksmith who can read the barrel but will likely still need it off

:hang:

[Lukeus101]

Seems a major ballache tbh...