Opinions please!

[KirkJames]

After my recent 'brown trouser' moment the other day, I was speaking to my step Dad (used to work for Ford for over 30 years) and he seemed to think that when the car went in for the CV Joints to be done a few weeks back the garage either:

1. Didn't do the Ball Joint up tight enough
or
2. They did it too tight, putting extra stress on the joint eventually (especially with the ZS's hard ride) sheering the bolt.

Would anybody agree with either of these??

I haven't got the knackered ball joint anymore but I doubt this would make any difference because if I went to the garage ranting all they would say would be 'It was fine when it left'. They're not going to admit 5hit are they.

I am worried now though cos I didn't put two and two together and the repair work was done at the same garage and they said that none of the arms/suspension etc was damaged and it was pretty much just the ball joint that had to be replaced and of course putting the CV joints back into the driveshaft. I asked them to replace the other ball joint too, just in case.

I don't know what to do and I cannot afford to pay out for any more extra work really. :wall::wall:

[big_wasa]

I would say that is very likely, but your never going to know 100%.

My money is they over tightened them looking at where out snapped.

[petet16]

I don't think you'll ever know for sure, it's a real shame you don't have the bits of the old joint they would have possibly shown why it broke, it doesn't look as if it was loose as you can see the tapered part still in the lower arm in your pics, one thing that could have weakened the joint was a torn boot allowing water in which then rusted the tapered pin.

[petet16]

I've just looked at the pictures again and enlarged them to huge, and it doesn't look like the tapered pin broke, it looks like the two parts of the ball joint separated, the part in the lower arm looks intact, and the housing which is an interference fit in the upright appears to be still fitted.

[stamford]

May have been fatigue. Being a tapered fit it will only have got so far and then the nut will not tighten any further before trying to strip the thread.

[KirkJames]

Ok thanks guys, I am getting brake squeel noise and a metallic grinding noise so I will make sure that the sheild behind the disc is clear when I get the replacement alloy and tyre on then have the tracking and balancing done and if it's still making a noise after that it's going straight back to the garage then I'll be off to a second garage just to make sure everything is safe to drive on.
Really could of done without all this crap!!!

[petet16]

I'm thinking your joint may have separated if the ball on the end of the pin 1 was worn and pulled out of the ball seat 3





http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/explodedviews/280z/77fsm/ball%20joint.gif

[peterzs]

To do the CV joint, do you have to put a splitter on the ball joint????

If you do, wonder if the strain on the ball seat weakened it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

For the cost of a new ball joint makes you wonder if a new one is worth it, every time you break the steering/cv apart to replace or repair.

:ohmy::ohmy:

Just after having a new cv joint done on mine, without replacing anything else.

[stamford]

Once I get my Landy a fresh MOT I think the zed will be off the road and all suspension stripped and replaced. It's been on my list of things to do and at 92k I think it had better be checked thoroughly. Both lower balljoints need doing as the gaitors have a small tear in them.

[KirkJames]

Once I get my Landy a fresh MOT I think the zed will be off the road and all suspension stripped and replaced. It's been on my list of things to do and at 92k I think it had better be checked thoroughly. Both lower balljoints need doing as the gaitors have a small tear in them.
Yeah, best be on the safe side mate!

[KirkJames]

I'm thinking your joint may have separated if the ball on the end of the pin 1 was worn and pulled out of the ball seat 3





http://atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/explodedviews/280z/77fsm/ball%20joint.gif

I could of sworn the zs was upside down to this diagram with the split pin on the bottom?

[petet16]

It is the other way up on a zs, that is just a generic picture.

[POMPSKI]

Didnt know you had the CV's done, if you have to split a ball joint it should be replaced everytime (good working practice). I bet they used a hammer on a ball seperator too....

[daytona365]

Sounds like another group do meet lol.............

[Noobrider]

To be honest, if I have to use a ball joint splitter to separate the joint for any other reason than replacing the actual ball joint, I would replace the ball joint as you more often than not split the rubber gaitor.

However, a splitter is always a last resort. A sharp tap on the side of the hub where the ball joint locates is usually enough to break the taper without any damage to either part.

[KirkJames]

Didnt know you had the CV's done, if you have to split a ball joint it should be replaced everytime (good working practice). I bet they used a hammer on a ball seperator too....

Yeah probably, slowly getting it back to normal tho now!