No hot air.

[Burrelly]

I am having an issue again.... Seems to have plenty of them...

Basically I am only getting cold air from my heaters regardless of the setting.

The coolant level seems fine. Both water pipes going in and out the engine get warm is that normal?

Any ideas what to look for?

Cheers
Dave

[peterzs]

See its a 120, have you bled it recently, or topped up coolant.

Have to bleed it with the heater on hot.

Sounds like an air lock in the heater matrix.

Think Dan found a steep hill to help when he bled his ZT.

[Burrelly]

Where is the bleed nut? had a look but struggled to find it.

Basically run the car with the heating up full and turn the bleed nut while topping up coolant?

[Dan1971]

Heater on my ZT-T V6 was blowing cold.

Found a hill and managed to find a bleed valve on the tubing and left it running with the coolant top off.

Lots of popping and hissing later it appeared sorted.

However - having traced the car since, it was one of the very very few V6s to suffer HGF shortly after, and I think my issues with the heater/coolant system and tubing were linked to that.

[welshone]

Where is the bleed nut? had a look but struggled to find it.

Basically run the car with the heating up full and turn the bleed nut while topping up coolant?

Bleed screw in on a metal coolant pipe located in the red marked area.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/wicked7719/Rover1_zpsf223596f.jpg

[Burrelly]

Bleed screw in on a metal coolant pipe located in the red marked area.

http://i234.photobucket.com/albums/ee284/wicked7719/Rover1_zpsf223596f.jpg

Is this the same for my car? My coolant tank is located on the left hand side?

Its a 2005 zs 120 mk2.

[welshone]

Is this the same for my car? My coolant tank is located on the left hand side?

Its a 2005 zs 120 mk2.

I'm pretty sure it is a very similar setup between 25/ZR & the 45/ZS.

[welshone]

Just did a quick google search I found this pointing where the bleed screw is.

http://i217.photobucket.com/albums/cc293/stargazer_person/DSC02948-1-1.jpg

[Burrelly]

Perfect I will go have a look at lunch time :-)

[Burrelly]

I had a look but cant see anything that looks like a bleed point.

[peterzs]

Just found this on XPower

Re: 120+ 1.8 Engine Help Needed - URGENT!
There are 2 sensors on an alloy elbow casting on the left of the engine block towards the radiator (remember left and right is as though you are in the drivers seat)

The lower sensor is the one that sends a signal to the coolant gauge the one to the side is the one that controls the fan/feed to the ECU.

removing the sensor will cause coolant to leak. Once the replacement is fitted, remember to use Loctite 557 on the threads, you will need to bleed the system.

Do not remove the elbow or you will have to replace the gasket.

Bleed screw is a small nut in the main coolant pipe just between the batery and the throttle body area, it might be hard to locate with the wiring loom in the way. careful not to cross thread this or you will be buying a new pipe!

To Bleed,

ensure the heater is to max heat

mix coolant and water concentration in a suitable container, do not add neat coolant!!

Top up resevoir to max level, refit cap.

Start engine and let it warm up until the fan has cut in once, do not rev, let this warm up on tick over.

Ensure the heater is pumping out hot air.

Turn off engine, release bleed screw and let air out until coolant flows and no air. The screw doesn't need to come out fully and it may be under a considerable pressure so be careful! Don't loose it either.

Caution, coolant will be very hot!!!

Carefully remove expansion cap on resevoir, put a rag over the cap to stop pressurised spray. If it gurgles madly and the resevoir starts to over flow then there is still air trapped in the system.

Top up to correct level and repeat process until no more air escapes from bleed screw and the coolant cap can be removed with the water errupting out!

Do not remove bleed screw with engine running, water pump pressure can blow it out plus spray you in face with scalding hot coolant.

If the heater doesn't get hot then there is an air lock in the heater circuit (a pig for doing it on the R45/ZS)

Gentle squeezzing of pipes helps to move trapped air.

Bleeding a K series engine is critical, they have a small coolant capacity and being alloy heat up really quick, this can be critical on head gaskets so do it properly and don't wreck your engine!
__________________
www.pirelli.co.uk/prorally

[Ritchy]

Is the cable attached okay at the heater box

[Burrelly]

How do i check that?

[Ritchy]

Get your head in the footwell and have a look, move the cable and you will see

[Burrelly]

Well I gave the pipes a squeeze to try move any air blockage.... Good news is I have hot air now....

Bad news is I only have hot air..... Any ideas?

[BUCKYDEVIL]

As Ritchy says look in drivers footwell to see if cable to heater controls has came off,
Happened to mine before, fiddly to get into.

[Burrelly]

Yup it was the cable :-)

Cheers guys.

[peterzs]

Good result.

[DuckFeet]

So how did the cable come detached? I've had this before because I was fartarsing about stripping the interior to get the carpet out. Glad it's sorted, I like easy fixes.

[petet16]

The outer sheath can get knocked out of the spring clip.