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Jason04r
29-07-13, 10:51 PM
Hi,

As some of you know i've been looking at the only MK2 180 for sale in Spain and most probs in europe at this moment in time.

Well i picked it up today , took a 9 hour drive , overnight hotel and 9 hours of driving back. Nackard is a understatement. Our hotel was 10 seconds walk from the car which was ideal.

Met the guy at 10:30 and took a look at the car. Bodywork is in mint condition which is very surprising for a Spanish car ( Bumper cars ).Interior was in good condition with no mods , seats are also in good condition. Popped the bonnet to find that the engine had been removed , no surprise as the guy said it had been dismantled.

I asked him wheres the engine and he pointed to a pile of mixed engine parts to the side of the car. At this time my hand hit my forehead.

Not only had he stripped every single part of the engine down , he also stripped the gearbox down to the gears. Finally found all of the engine and various other parts and filled the boot and rear seats.....

Winched it onto the recovery truck , went to sign over names and set off home.

So ,

Having a quick look when i arrived home , i need the follow:

Driveshafts
Radiator
Gearbox

This is what i've noticed so far. I'm not a mechanic and nor have i changed an engine before so this is a big project for me. i've already got an engine on the way from Zred :beer2:

I hope i can ask dumb questions along the way into this build.

Pictures shall follow tomorrow !

Thanks :rofl:

petet16
29-07-13, 11:01 PM
Ask away, I'm sure the members on the forum will be able to provide all the answers to your questions.

Why on earth did he strip the engine and gearbox so much, did you get any information about the original problem

ZRed
29-07-13, 11:53 PM
My only concern now is the parts needed to swap the 75's kv6 ive sold you, into the ZS is fairly straightforward with both sitting next to each other. Now this is completely stripped could make it a ballache mate! Ill help as much as i can from here.

Jason04r
30-07-13, 12:18 AM
Original problem is he drove through deep water and ingested a fair amount of water.

Ill post a pic of the amount of peices I have from the engine.

I'm not going to rush this build , I have all the time in the world to complete it . Well until the head gasket on my Astra fails completely lol

Parts are near impossible to get in Spain for the 180 so most of them will need to come from the uk.

stamford
30-07-13, 08:03 AM
Here I go again but Dan1971 is breaking a 180 so you'll get what you need from him I'm sure. Can't see why he stripped the box though, daft. Hopefully you got it for a good price.

peterzs
30-07-13, 09:14 AM
I hope i can ask dumb questions along the way into this build.

Pictures shall follow tomorrow !

Thanks :rofl:

Hi sounds a right pig to sort out.

No such thing as a daft question, if you dont know, you dont know.

So ask away.

Good luck with it.

:smile2::smile2::smile2:

Jason04r
30-07-13, 12:13 PM
I got the car for 800 euros ( £700 ) which is bargin to say Diesels go for 4500 euros.

Cars hold there value here , i got my 1998 Astra 1.6 8v for £1700 2 years go.. i could pick one up for £200 odd quid in the UK.

The strap is to keep the garage door closed as its too big for the drive lol. I have already started de-chav'in the car. Removed the lexus lights and put the originals back in, removed amp and sub from the boot. Next to go are the alloys as i'm wanting the standard 17" in black.


Couple of pictures:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG_0100_zps77c81bd6.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG_0100_zps77c81bd6.jpg.html)

White leather door cards
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG_0108_zps118a1fa6.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG_0108_zps118a1fa6.jpg.html)

Leather and suede seats:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG_0109_zpse1a75e42.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG_0109_zpse1a75e42.jpg.html)

Scrap yard of parts:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG_0104_zps702153ea.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG_0104_zps702153ea.jpg.html)

Looking through i found the reason for the engine being stripped:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG_0111_zps00f07b41.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG_0111_zps00f07b41.jpg.html)
Smashed piston and conrod...

Thanks

petet16
30-07-13, 12:52 PM
I like the leather trim on the door cards, someone must have spent a fair chunk of money on it in the past, was it White originally or has been repainted.

Jason04r
30-07-13, 12:55 PM
Been sprayed and very badly at that.It was green, the guy didn't remove any plastic trim so its starting to crack in places.

It's going to need a full re-spray in the future

petet16
30-07-13, 12:59 PM
Shame, it looks good in white, you've got yourself quite a project there.

Jason04r
03-08-13, 09:27 PM
So the engine arrived Thursday - Thumbs up to Zred again.

He told me its from a rover 75 so yesterday i changed the following as some parts were different:

Cam covers
Coilpack
Engine loom
Intake manifolds , VIS housing...

Now the fuel line on the 75 was closed at one end like so ( No 2 ):

http://i937.photobucket.com/albums/ad220/gasfireddisco/fuelrailandinjectors-2001kv6.jpg

This is my fuel rail:

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/photo1_zps7e649ff8.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/photo1_zps7e649ff8.jpg.html)

It goes under the air intake and faces towards to bulkhead. I've looked around the engine bay and can't see anything which it connects too...

I've been looking around on the inter-webs and can't find any info about it.

Thanks!

petet16
03-08-13, 09:51 PM
This is what it should look like

http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y142/petet16/100_2281_zps5a17febd.jpg (http://s4.photobucket.com/user/petet16/media/100_2281_zps5a17febd.jpg.html)

Jason04r
03-08-13, 10:18 PM
Many thanks for the picture.

Any chance for a wider view?

Here's the connections i can see.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/photo2_zps121aafbf.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/photo2_zps121aafbf.jpg.html)

Also this tube, Breather ?
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/photo11_zpscf4089e4.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/photo11_zpscf4089e4.jpg.html)


Thanks

petet16
03-08-13, 10:27 PM
The Green connector in your hand goes to the fuel rail.

The tube is for the brake servo, the open end will fit to the plenum.

Not sure why the throttle cable is so long.

Jason04r
03-08-13, 10:31 PM
Great suff , i'll have another look tomorrow at my connections , I cannot find the orange connection..

Thanks :mml:

Jason04r
05-08-13, 11:19 PM
I need your help guys!

I purchased the locking tools from a supplier in Spain. These i believe are some Chinese brand unknown but for 80 euros there a bargain compared to ones i've seen on various sites.

I've watched the KV6 timing belt video on youtube about 20 times so i was confident about the job. I first checked the rear cams was aligned which they was and the crank was in the safe position. I was planning on changing the belt without removing the cam bolt. Went ahead and removed the tensioner, at this time i started to remove the belt from the right hand side.

The right cam then springed out of position which then knocked the timing position of the rear cams, since i removed the belt it then slipped on the left hand side and springed out of place.

I used the tools which aligned the right hand side correctly - Both to my timing marks and the rear cam lines are level straight. As shown here:

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG_01451_zpse02b18c6.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG_01451_zpse02b18c6.jpg.html)

Right hand side rear cams:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG_01431_zps9605865c.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG_01431_zps9605865c.jpg.html)

Left hand side is completely out of sync for some reason. Does not align with my timing marks and either do the rear cams align:

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG_01401_zps261c5717.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG_01401_zps261c5717.jpg.html)

Rear Cams:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG_01411_zps76c0027f.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG_01411_zps76c0027f.jpg.html)

Have i been a complete twit and done something?

Any help would be fantastic

talkingcars
06-08-13, 06:01 AM
I am no expert but that doesn't look far out, 1 or maybe 2 teeth.

petet16
06-08-13, 08:27 AM
The cams will move slightly because of the tension from the valve springs, when you refit the front belt you'll need to move the cam pulleys back to line up your timing marks.

Jason04r
06-08-13, 08:43 AM
I'm finding it difficult to actually put the belt on , seems likes its too small :/

I've tried making sure its tight enough to reach all the gears and pullys but seems to be a right pita!

I'm starting from the crank and using a peice of plastic to keep it held in place.... Really need another person to help me :)

petet16
06-08-13, 10:44 AM
Have you got the locking pin in the tensioner ?

Jason04r
06-08-13, 12:05 PM
Yup the pins in place

Jason04r
06-08-13, 01:34 PM
Problem i've got is placing the belt on , If i remove the tools they completely spring out of the timing marks.... How do i now put the belt on in the correct timings?

petet16
06-08-13, 02:25 PM
Looking at the locking tools you're using I think some extra pairs of hands are going to be needed.

Jason04r
08-08-13, 10:56 PM
Changed all the belts tonight with the help of a friend.

Theres around 1-2 mm difference on the line marks of the left hand rear cams , Should this cause any issues?

Also got some goodies arrive in the post:

Right hand drive shaft
New CV joints
CV boots ( Going to change all seems there out )
Radiator - This arrived in poor condition - Ebay seller stated " Good condition" If they noticed various small holes where it looks like a screwdrivers been ran down it :(

Sorry for the lack of pictures , I do all the work and then realize i didnt take any pictures haha

Needed now:

Gearbox
Lower engine mount and few other bits and bobs

Thanks!

petet16
09-08-13, 08:58 AM
The 1-2mm won't make any difference, I doubt many of them were exactly aligned at original build.

Jason04r
09-08-13, 09:19 AM
Ah good - Minds at piece now.

Called the scrap yard i purchased the rad from and they simply said send it back... its going to cost me nearly £50 to send it back to them... I feel it was " Send the nackard rad to the guy in Spain , he can't do anything )

£40 down the drain !

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-PCC001610SLP - Would this fit the 2.5 as it only states for the 2.0

petet16
09-08-13, 10:10 AM
Unfortunately that rad is not suitable for the 2.5 v6.

Ritchy
09-08-13, 10:12 AM
Out of intrest who was the seller of the used one? I didn't think the 2.5 rad was available anymore new

petet16
09-08-13, 10:17 AM
Is this where you got the rad from http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MG-ZS-2-5-V6-180-RADIATOR-/320928614994?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4ab8d60a52

xpart are showing 2 new ones available in Germany Ritchy, but £300+:crazy:

Jason04r
09-08-13, 10:23 AM
Yea ,

Got it from these guys... couldn't find it anywhere else. Condition of the rad is shocking for them to say " Good condition".

I'm handy with a solder iron , if i was to solder over the holes , should be fine ?

Ritchy
09-08-13, 11:05 AM
Ive had issues with stuff from there, stick your ground and tell him its not financially viable for you to send it back and its clearly damaged.
Personally i wouldn't use him, have stuck him up in the name and shame section previosly.

Jason04r
09-08-13, 11:11 AM
I've sent an email , not being rude at all so lets see the response. I think they value there feedback and seems i purchased two separate items i could give them bad feedback for both as a "up yours" if they don't sort it.

petet16
09-08-13, 11:51 AM
They can be a patchy seller, I've had some bits which have been fine, and others which were plainly damaged and unusable but they still packed them and sent them, in fairness replacements were sent quickly, but it doesn't make up for sending the damaged ones in the first place.

Used 180 rads seem to be like rocking horse poo at the moment, I would solder up the holes and see how it goes.

Dan1971
09-08-13, 01:50 PM
....
Used 180 rads seem to be like rocking horse poo at the moment, I would solder up the holes and see how it goes.

Mine will be available in a couple of weeks like I said, when I get my mate round and we drop the engine and gearbox out onto a pallet. I like comments like that though Pete - just bumped the price up .... ;)

petet16
09-08-13, 02:07 PM
oops:laugh:

I'm surprised none of the aftermarket rad makers, or xpart for that matter have not covered the 180 rad.

Skillen
09-08-13, 02:39 PM
Any resemblance between 75/ZT v6 rads and ours?

Enright
09-08-13, 02:43 PM
Used 180 rads seem to be like rocking horse poo at the moment, I would solder up the holes and see how it goes.

That's interesting, how would you do it - would you use a blowtorch or something?
I wondered about repair methods when I recently discovered a hole in my aircon radiator, although aircon systems seem to run at a much higher pressure than coolant systems - like about 100PSI. And re-gassing them if the repair doesn't hold isn't cheap either.
Still, could have a bash and try pressure-testing it afterwards to see if it holds or hisses...

stamford
09-08-13, 03:32 PM
Blow torch (if hot enough) and silver solder I guess. May pay to take any rad to a specialist to get pressure tested and repaired. My local radiator specialist has since gone, shame he was good too and used to sponsor the race car.

Jason04r
09-08-13, 04:15 PM
I don't know anyone around my area which does this type of repair. I'll try the solder repair with the old blowtorch. I've fixed PC water cooling radiators this way but they don't have the same amount of pressure...

Will update tonight :)

petet16
09-08-13, 04:24 PM
That's interesting, how would you do it - would you use a blowtorch or something?
I wondered about repair methods when I recently discovered a hole in my aircon radiator, although aircon systems seem to run at a much higher pressure than coolant systems - like about 100PSI. And re-gassing them if the repair doesn't hold isn't cheap either.
Still, could have a bash and try pressure-testing it afterwards to see if it holds or hisses...

I've only ever done it once on a old style brass rad that had a crack around one of the unions, but a blow lamp and silver solder was what I used, not a very pretty repair, but it did seal it.

ZS
09-08-13, 04:39 PM
Used 180 rads seem to be like rocking horse poo at the moment, I would solder up the holes and see how it goes.

Really???

Anyone want my 180 Rad, all the fans and Aircon rad + fans???? :zorro:

maxtherotti
10-08-13, 07:27 AM
Wasn't there a guy on xpf doing refurbed 180 rads a while back??
Could have been rallymat I think??

Rob

petet16
10-08-13, 09:02 AM
He did look into it I believe, it might be worth contacting him if any one is in need of a rad.

Jason04r
10-08-13, 09:02 AM
Looks like ZS has a rad for me :D

petet16
10-08-13, 09:07 AM
Result :-D

Jason04r
11-08-13, 12:19 PM
Opened a dispute against the company regarding the radiator and still there asking for me to send it back... some people!

Anyways;

I've had a look in the fuse box and seems i'm missing the 100amp fuse , where can i get hold of these?

petet16
11-08-13, 12:24 PM
The main fuse, where the Red lead enters the fuse box ?

petet16
11-08-13, 12:30 PM
One of these http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID003179

ZS
11-08-13, 12:31 PM
Opened a dispute against the company regarding the radiator and still there asking for me to send it back... some people!

Anyways;

I've had a look in the fuse box and seems i'm missing the 100amp fuse , where can i get hold of these?

I think I have a fuse box in the garage too... When I package your Rad up I'll throw in the Fuse as well if you like? - Just let me know for deff which it is (picture if possible)

Jason04r
11-08-13, 02:57 PM
Heres the fuse box and diagram.

Looks like i'm just missing the 100amp

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/photo12_zpsd718d982.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/photo12_zpsd718d982.jpg.html)
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/photo21_zpse92f0610.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/photo21_zpse92f0610.jpg.html)

petet16
11-08-13, 03:04 PM
You're not missing it, it was never fitted, it's for diesels only.

Jason04r
11-08-13, 03:07 PM
Ah okay. Learning everyday! thanks

Jason04r
11-08-13, 08:16 PM
Looking at the clutch today and there's not alot of meat on it...

Any recommendations?

petet16
11-08-13, 08:25 PM
You could try www.carparts4less.co.uk £135 + £18 for delivery to Spain

Jason04r
11-08-13, 08:40 PM
Okay ordered from the website you provided... Been looking on Ebay and damn there expensive on there!

Thanks again pete!

Jason04r
13-08-13, 02:39 PM
Parts ordered and on the way:

New clutch
Gearbox
Radiator
Steering wheel
Oil catch tank

I've got a couple of pictures to upload later of the work i've done so far...

Shall update soon :)

Jason04r
14-08-13, 09:00 AM
Been a busy bee last night. Changed both CV Joints and all the boots :

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/photo_zps362ff1cf.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/photo_zps362ff1cf.jpg.html)

Didn't realize how messy this job was lol - Grease everywhere

Maxfly
14-08-13, 09:34 AM
Your fairly getting stuck into this, looks like your making good progress too. Look forward to more of your updates:)

stamford
14-08-13, 09:56 AM
Good progress, I like to see shiny new bits! :D

Jason04r
14-08-13, 10:12 AM
To my surprise i'm really enjoying it. Lets see when it needs to all go in lol

stamford
14-08-13, 11:04 AM
Yea don't speak too soon! It only takes one stupid thing to set you back and really hack you off. Fair play for getting stuck in, at least there's a good level of satisfaction when you look back and reflect on what you've accomplished.

Jason04r
14-08-13, 11:32 AM
I've finally got the refund from ebayer cwvehicledismantlers < Avoid at all cost if you can.

I made a Paypal dispute against the broken radiator they sent out to me.They wanted me to pay to send it back. Paypal also said i should send the item back ! Joke or what. Got on the blower to Paypal and they understood the situation and refunded me in the full. Happy days

Seems like you guys also had problems with these monkeys so another good lesson learnt on why not to buy from them!

Rant over :D

petet16
14-08-13, 11:50 AM
I'm glad it got sorted in the end, it seemed totally pointless returning it.

Jason04r
14-08-13, 01:49 PM
Something for the future but i've seen various forums with people using Pug 407 brembo calipers. Do these require different brackets etc??

Worth the hassle or not?

ZS
14-08-13, 01:56 PM
Something for the future but i've seen various forums with people using Pug 407 brembo calipers. Do these require different brackets etc??

Worth the hassle or not?

http://www.themgzs.co.uk/vb/showthread.php?t=26102&highlight=brembo

I would say... do your research first, but if you are only going to use it on the road they are probably not really worth it :) The OE 180 brakes are blooming good for a road car, and with some upgraded compounds are not too shabby for a track car IMO

petet16
14-08-13, 02:13 PM
I would say not worth it for a standard 180.

Jason04r
14-08-13, 02:57 PM
Ah right - I knew the brakes were already good as standard but we all look for that extra ;)

Thanks guys

Skillen
14-08-13, 03:27 PM
Mines pretty much standard.
I've just ordered them because they look good and all the cool kids have brembos!

Jason04r
14-08-13, 03:50 PM
That's actually the reason i'd want them haha

petet16
14-08-13, 03:50 PM
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-Red-3D-Brembo-Front-Rear-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Cover-Universal-/271257173321?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f282ffd49 :whistle:

Skillen
14-08-13, 04:24 PM
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-Red-3D-Brembo-Front-Rear-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Cover-Universal-/271257173321?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f282ffd49 :whistle:

Hahaha!
Well I've just saved hundreds!
I'll let you know how they stop!

Skillen
14-08-13, 04:25 PM
That's actually the reason i'd want them haha

Get yourself onto the group buy on the fixtures/fittings and discs. Then find the calumets and you're sorted.

talkingcars
14-08-13, 07:22 PM
Just upgrade the pads to yellow stuff, fit groved discs, replace the hoses for braided and change the brake fluid, cheaper than upgrading to pugs and give you the edge on O/E spec.

Jason04r
15-08-13, 01:38 PM
Okay ordered some more goodies today :

Yellow stuff pads ( All 4 )
Braided hoses
Xsara washer jets

Bank balance at this time is quickly becoming low lol - Going to make this the best i can get within the £4k budget.

Gearbox and all other parts are with my parents in the UK , they shall be shipped over monday/tuesday next week. Exciting stuff! :D

ZS
15-08-13, 02:05 PM
Okay ordered some more goodies today :

Yellow stuff pads ( All 4 )
Braided hoses
Xsara washer jets

Bank balance at this time is quickly becoming low lol - Going to make this the best i can get within the £4k budget.

Gearbox and all other parts are with my parents in the UK , they shall be shipped over monday/tuesday next week. Exciting stuff! :D

Ahhhh Remind me tonight to get your rad boxed up!!!

Jason04r
15-08-13, 02:46 PM
Ahhhh Remind me tonight to get your rad boxed up!!!

I sent you a PM on the 11th but was waiting for a reply :( i got impatience or ordered it from a broker when i go the gearbox.

Sorry bud but thanks anyways

ZS
15-08-13, 02:57 PM
I sent you a PM on the 11th but was waiting for a reply :( i got impatience or ordered it from a broker when i go the gearbox.

Sorry bud but thanks anyways

On the 11th? (That was sunday right?) I must have missed that one... Never mind :) you needed to do what was best and quickest for you, and me being :sleeping::sleeping: was too slow.

Jason04r
16-08-13, 11:01 AM
No worries.

Waiting game now for the parts..... bored..

Jason04r
16-08-13, 01:35 PM
Got an insurance quote for the MZ - Took them 15 minutes to find the car model.

Worked out 1500 euros fully comp (290 excess), with 2 years no comp or 2700 euros with no excess haha

Expensive but the best quote i've got so far.

Smokey
16-08-13, 01:49 PM
Eesh, thats a lot of dough for insuring a ZS!

Jason04r
16-08-13, 01:56 PM
I can insure a Mazda 3 MPS ( 2.3L 260BHP ) for 1000 euros.

Must be down to how rare the car is and thinking about parts if something was to go wrong. Still alot cheaper than UK - (I'm 23 Years old btw ), 2 Years no claims.. Insurance for the 1.6 8v astra was £2000 if i lived at my old address haha

Smokey
16-08-13, 02:35 PM
I'd buy a Mazda 3 :laugh:

Jason04r
16-08-13, 02:42 PM
Yea i was looking at them but they go for 8000 euros compared to 4k RHD ...

Rather have the ZS tbh :)

Smokey
16-08-13, 03:01 PM
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pcs-Red-3D-Brembo-Front-Rear-Disc-Brake-Caliper-Cover-Universal-/271257173321?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item3f282ffd49 :whistle:

Great way to 1. overheat the brakes and 2. have melted plastic on your car lmao!

Jason04r
19-08-13, 09:21 AM
Found cheaper insurance - 1050 euros from linea direct ( Direct Line )

Happy days!

peterzs
19-08-13, 09:32 AM
They are OK, just when I had their renewal price it was £100 odd more that the cheapest one on Go Compare.

When I queried it they said it was a new customer discount, first time you go with them????

Jason04r
19-08-13, 09:54 AM
First time with this company. I'm with a company called balumba for 2 years and they quote 1500 euros so i'm going to call them and ask for a better price seems i've been with them for 2 years.... Lets see

peterzs
19-08-13, 10:18 AM
Good luck, think they are starting to price match, over here.

;););)

Jason04r
22-08-13, 03:49 PM
Got my new clutch last night so i'm going to install it tonight if i can be bothered but before that. Does anyone know the Torque for the flywheel nuts?

Still waiting for my haynes manual to arrive.

Thanks!

petet16
22-08-13, 05:00 PM
Flywheel to crank bolts ?. 80Nm if so.

Jason04r
25-08-13, 06:29 PM
Right so i'm trying to align the clutch.I have the gearbox shaft from the old gearbox which i can use to align the clutch.

Why will it not slot in ? Seems i would need to use a hammer and alot of force just to get the shaft in. Is this normal?

petet16
25-08-13, 06:55 PM
No, is the old input shaft straight, or does it have any burrs on the end, it should just slide in, maybe you've found the reason the old gearbox had been taken apart.

Jason04r
25-08-13, 09:09 PM
Looks okay to the eye , first 4-5mm goes in and then it gets stuck.

I've used a socket for now and seems to be straight enough but the gearbox should arrive tomorrow so i'll see then.

Jason04r
31-08-13, 06:42 PM
Jumped into the car and pressed the clutch down by accident.

Now clutch slave cylinder now looks like this.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG_0220_zps52f0ffb9.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG_0220_zps52f0ffb9.jpg.html)

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG_0221_zpsba55b0c4.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG_0221_zpsba55b0c4.jpg.html)

Can it be saved ? if so does anyone know how the hell it goes together.

petet16
31-08-13, 07:00 PM
Yep, it can be saved.

You will need to separate the pipe joint and remove the slave, then fill it with brake fluid, drop the spring in and then the piston with the seals at the top of the cylinder, while trying to push the piston in you'll need a second pair of hands to unseat the valve in the pipe, then put the push rod into place and the rubber dust seal, and then to prevent the piston popping out use zip ties or a g clamp, be warned it is a ball ache of a job.

petet16
31-08-13, 07:55 PM
Just a thought, is there any fluid left in the system ?.

Jason04r
31-08-13, 07:57 PM
Yea, some spilled out when it pop'd out but i can see the fluid in the bottom of the cylinder.

petet16
31-08-13, 08:03 PM
if you take the cap off the master cylinder is there fluid in the reservoir.

Jason04r
31-08-13, 08:10 PM
I'll take alook tomorrow as its under the fuse box.

If i have the pedal at the top then i see brake fluid in the slave and when its pushed down i see more fluid so i'm going to say yes there is a good amount of fluid in there

tcb 180
01-09-13, 09:31 AM
As ever a very good thread with some excellent advice and technical know how. Enjoying this one lots.

redzed
01-09-13, 10:23 AM
ive got a clutch system for sale if you need one

Jason04r
01-09-13, 05:36 PM
So the bottles half full with fluid.

How am i going to put it back together without getting air into the system?

petet16
01-09-13, 05:54 PM
You aren't going to be able to put it together without getting air in it, you will need to attempt to bleed it after re assembly, as I said the job is a pita.

As you still have fluid in the master cylinder I would fill the slave with enough fluid to refit the piston and rod without needing to compress the fluid, then operate the piston by hand to dislodge the air, any air should end up escaping from the system via the master cylinder.

Jason04r
02-09-13, 08:44 PM
Got the gearbox this evening.

Bloody hard work getting just under 40 kg to sit proper by myself.

Am i total bell end or is the wrong gearbox? Various holes lead to nothing as seen in the pictures and also doesnt look like it matches up.

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/photo1_zpsb1958bba.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/photo1_zpsb1958bba.jpg.html)
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/photo2_zps9a715102.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/photo2_zps9a715102.jpg.html)
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/photo3_zps7f5e42b5.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/photo3_zps7f5e42b5.jpg.html)

petet16
02-09-13, 08:56 PM
That's definitely a pg1 box, what car did it come off ?.

Jason04r
02-09-13, 09:15 PM
2001 Zs 180 . Got kv6 marked on it

Dan1971
02-09-13, 09:19 PM
Now - I'm far from a guru, but, didn't your engine come from a 75 ? Don't they use a getrag gearbox ? Are they different ?

petet16
02-09-13, 09:21 PM
Now - I'm far from a guru, but, didn't your engine come from a 75 ? Don't they use a getrag gearbox ? Are they different ?

Good point.

Dan1971
02-09-13, 09:24 PM
Good point.

Holy shoite - have I just got something mechanical in the right ball park ... ?

petet16
02-09-13, 09:37 PM
You have.

petet16
02-09-13, 09:53 PM
Well, the zt and zs block castings are the same, so the pg1 box should fit.

Jason04r
02-09-13, 10:09 PM
It does fit .. Just doesn't look correct. :/

tcb 180
03-09-13, 08:07 AM
Well done that man ! Has he gone and bought the wrong box then?

Dan1971
03-09-13, 08:29 AM
Got your pm and I'm at home for a bit this morning. I'll get some pics up.

Jason04r
03-09-13, 08:44 AM
Thanks Dan.

I looked at the block which came with the car , looks the same mounting points but ill double check last night as i couldn't see much at night.

ZRed
03-09-13, 09:31 AM
Block castings are the same. They use different gearboxes yes, but they also use different mounting holes. You have to remove the dowels from the engine and line them up with the gearbox ones. From the pics it looks like the dowels are clashing.

Jason04r
03-09-13, 09:59 AM
Block castings are the same. They use different gearboxes yes, but they also use different mounting holes. You have to remove the dowels from the engine and line them up with the gearbox ones. From the pics it looks like the dowels are clashing.

Shall take alook tonight.

Thanks bud

Jason04r
05-09-13, 08:48 AM
So as Zred said , the dowels need to be removed and placed correctly. What i've read its not going to be an easy job getting them out without destroying them :/

Differences:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/photo2_zpsbf50c631.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/photo2_zpsbf50c631.jpg.html)
Dowels are level with each other:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/photo1_zps049d2bda.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/photo1_zps049d2bda.jpg.html)

Also i need some seals for the driveshafts, are these the ones to get?
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=251041558388&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:GB:1123

petet16
05-09-13, 09:30 AM
I think these are the same as the ones you linked to
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MGZS-MG-ZS-KV6-V6-PG-1-Gearbox-Driveshaft-Seal-Set-/300776945077?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4607b3f5b5

petet16
05-09-13, 09:35 AM
Number 25 for new dowels http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID003326

Jason04r
05-09-13, 10:02 AM
Perfect.

anyone know the best way to remove them?

peterzs
05-09-13, 10:11 AM
I was just wondering if you could disk cut them off, flush to the face.

Dont know if they are used by the new gearbox for bolting up to, so new threads would be needed.

Depends where the new dowels are fitted to locate the new gearbox.

Can see a lot of hard work and damage, unless they come out easily.

Otherwise a big drill to run through them and see if you can collapse the dowel.

I'm not suggesting any of the above, but just a few thoughts I had reading the first post about swapping dowels.

Jason04r
05-09-13, 10:18 AM
TBH , I've only tried with a crappy pair of pliers. Have to raid my dads tools for some mole grips

peterzs
05-09-13, 10:28 AM
a look and found these:-

http://www.ehow.com/how_2265610_remove-tight-dowel-pins.html

Suppose this one would help by not damaging the hole if you try and twist the dowel out with a stilson or mole grips. But seems too easy the way he says!!

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OmMnuA4HUn4&hd=1

Once again not my recommendations but might give you an idea or two.

Maybe a bit of heat on the area!! Flood it with plus gas or such.

Good luck with it.

petet16
05-09-13, 12:17 PM
I would go with mole grips and plus gas and see how it goes, they may not be as tight as they appear, also try to get them to turn first rather than just pulling on them.

Jason04r
05-09-13, 12:53 PM
I've ordered the new dowels anyways in-case i screw these up.

Shall update..

ZRed
05-09-13, 03:09 PM
Vice grips and turn like a nut.

Jason04r
05-09-13, 09:58 PM
Oil filter arrived at my local parts place so went to change it , the tool i got broke on the first pull so its going back tomorrow. Tried to turn it by hand , nada. stuck good and proper !

Whacked a screw driver in the side and this is the end result:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/photo1_zpsbf58c407.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/photo1_zpsbf58c407.jpg.html)

Annoyed but its done , never again without the tool haha

peterzs
05-09-13, 10:23 PM
Putting up a good fight.

Jason04r
08-09-13, 12:28 AM
No joy with removing the dowels , i stopped after it started to bent a wee bit.

Found this however:

http://forums.nasioc.com/forums/showpost.php?p=36005093&postcount=2

Seems to be the easiest way to get them out..

tcb 180
08-09-13, 07:34 AM
Don't you just love those set ups? Everything gleaming and not a sign of crud,rot,rust or anything like. Good idea though & well worth a try.

petet16
08-09-13, 09:16 AM
I like the idea of threading the dowel to extract it.

Jason04r
23-09-13, 01:50 PM
So just come back from a week in the UK , got a new slave cylinder and also the dowels . got the dowels out and there too big , won't fit in the correct place due to the size. I contacted Rimmers and that's the only dowels they stock for gearbox to block . I tried the remove them from my other block but destroyed them.

Where could I get these bloody dowels ??

petet16
23-09-13, 03:36 PM
A possible substitute http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M8-M10-M12-M16-Dowel-Pins-Hardened-and-Ground-Steel-Dowel-Pins-Packs-of-4-or-10-/290777840049?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=590081092084&hash=item43b3b5b9b1

Jason04r
25-09-13, 07:11 PM
So its 13mm across so which m number should it be ? Not worried about the length as I can cut it down

petet16
25-09-13, 07:25 PM
Is 13mm the dowel or hole size ?

Jason04r
25-09-13, 08:13 PM
Dowel measurement from side to side.

Why would rimmers not sell the correct dowels , I've spoke to a few people and they all have the dowels where mine are which are horizontal to each other .

£2 part stopping me from dropping the engine in !

petet16
25-09-13, 09:03 PM
I think this might be the correct dowel, it's listed for PG1 boxes fitted to T series engines http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-CAM7824

Jason04r
25-09-13, 10:32 PM
If i can't find anything tomorrow then I'll order it . let's see

Thanks pete

Jason04r
07-10-13, 07:08 PM
At long last I have the gearbox dowels , now the question is how to is install them correctly without damaging them . there extremely tight fit and I've tried with a hammer to knock them in but seems I were doing some damage so stopped .

Help?

petet16
07-10-13, 07:12 PM
Stick them in the deep freeze for 24 hours.

Jason04r
07-10-13, 07:15 PM
You mean the freezer right ? Lol

petet16
07-10-13, 07:20 PM
yep, liquid nitrogen works better, but I doubt you have any of that.

Jason04r
07-10-13, 07:35 PM
Afraid not :)

talkingcars
07-10-13, 09:14 PM
Freezing them makes them contract.

Jason04r
08-10-13, 09:29 AM
I managed to get them in . Now I've got to put the gearbox on but waiting for a mate to lend a hand , i attempted last night with a trolly jack but i'd be dammed if i can mate them together

Then the engine can finally go in!

peterzs
08-10-13, 10:00 AM
Good luck with it.

:yes::yes::yes:

tcb 180
08-10-13, 03:51 PM
Is the clutch plate aligned properly?

Jason04r
08-10-13, 04:28 PM
Did it with a socket through the middle so ill double check tonight , Good call!

Jason04r
09-10-13, 09:32 PM
Can some confirm that its 3 bolts for the left hand side and 2 start motor bolts which hold the gearbox on

Jason04r
10-10-13, 11:19 AM
Anyone tell me what these are for?

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG_20131009_223825_zpsc091fc2c.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG_20131009_223825_zpsc091fc2c.jpg.html)

I asked the supplier to include the gearbox bolts and these came with them

petet16
10-10-13, 12:41 PM
They look like the 2 washers that go each side of the bush on the gear change steady bar.

petet16
10-10-13, 12:43 PM
19 and 20 on the link

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID003594

Jason04r
10-10-13, 12:55 PM
Ah Jolly good.

Pete, there's 3 bolts on the left side of the gearbox and the two starter motor bolts. Would you know if that correct as my haynes or workshop manual don't state it. Looking all around there's no other places to bolt up. Seems strange that the only thing keeping the right side on is the dowel and start motor bolts up top.

Gracias :)

petet16
10-10-13, 01:31 PM
I'm not 100% sure, but shouldn't there be 2 bolts on the bottom which fit from the engine side of the box into threaded holes in the box

Jason04r
10-10-13, 01:40 PM
I'll have another look tonight and take some pics.

Cheers

petet16
10-10-13, 01:51 PM
This isn't the ideal pic, but you can just see the bottom edge of the bell housing with the 2 holes.

http://i143.photobucket.com/albums/r123/adrianwray/IMG_0152.jpg

Jason04r
10-10-13, 02:25 PM
Ah right,

i'll have a look tonight

Jason04r
10-10-13, 09:05 PM
Done it , 5 in total and 2 for the starter motor . feel like a pleb now lol

peterzs
10-10-13, 09:26 PM
No need, all here to help, specially Petet16.

Hope its soon up and running.

:happy2::happy2::happy2:

Jason04r
11-10-13, 12:02 AM
Going to collect a engine crane tomorrow so the weekend job is to put the engine in :) thanks for all your help so far , next chapter starts soon haha

peterzs
11-10-13, 08:54 AM
All the best with it, hope it drops in OK.

tcb 180
11-10-13, 09:09 AM
Pity. Got an engine crane sat in my garden ready for the scooby lift in.

Jason04r
11-10-13, 10:43 AM
Pity. Got an engine crane sat in my garden ready for the scooby lift in.

If you can get it over to Spain by tonight , i'll give you a beer ;)

Jason04r
12-10-13, 08:55 PM
Today was the day!

First thing was to move the engine of the crate and go through everything before putting it in as its easier when the engines out :)

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG-20131012-WA0000_zpsda4f4735.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG-20131012-WA0000_zpsda4f4735.jpg.html)

Moving the engine with the crane was a complete pitta but after 30 minutes i got it in the right place haha. Took about half an hour to put the engine in with the help of the girlfriend... end result:

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG_20131012_182427_zps21aa8891.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG_20131012_182427_zps21aa8891.jpg.html)

Started connecting everything up , so far so good!

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG-20131012-WA0003_zps9cc4228b.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG-20131012-WA0003_zps9cc4228b.jpg.html)

Tomorrow i'll get anything connected up and ready to start the beast...

peterzs
12-10-13, 09:27 PM
great work, well done the girlfriend.

Best of luck with the start up.

:happy2::happy2::happy2:

petet16
12-10-13, 09:37 PM
Nice work, well done.

talkingcars
13-10-13, 09:07 AM
Good progress - if ever I do a ZS engine I'll be making the slam panel removable.

Jason04r
13-10-13, 10:15 AM
Got a question regarding battery connections.

Is the fuse box correctly wired up?
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG_20131013_110842_zpsd826add7.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG_20131013_110842_zpsd826add7.jpg.html)
Also i have the negative cable, i've connected the ECU terminal to the negative cable and also the earth however there's another wire coming off with a large O connection( The big thick connection at the bottom) Where does this go?
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/IMG_20131013_110833_zpsba95e54e.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/IMG_20131013_110833_zpsba95e54e.jpg.html)

talkingcars
13-10-13, 10:19 AM
Fuse box is spot on.

The 3 leads from the battery negative go to the ECU, the slam panel and..............

talkingcars
13-10-13, 10:20 AM
LOL - could play this came for hours as the weather is pants here, F1 has finished and BTCC hasn't started..............

talkingcars
13-10-13, 10:21 AM
...............the last one goes to the gearbox.

Jason04r
13-10-13, 10:26 AM
Where bouts on the gearbox?

Already have the starter motor wired up...

talkingcars
13-10-13, 10:27 AM
I think it is down near the clutch slave.

talkingcars
13-10-13, 10:34 AM
Don't know if this helps

http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j289/sheddist/DSCF0070.jpg

tcb 180
13-10-13, 11:00 AM
I remember taking that one out or at least moving it to one side when doing my sheddist clutch kit ? Not sure if it bolts onto the slave or slave bracket ? Should be ok anywhere really as long as engine is earthed otherwise you will melt a throttle cable etc.

POMPSKI
13-10-13, 11:01 AM
Bolted onto the N/S of slave bracket under the bolt head. But it shouldnt really matter as long as it is all tightened.

Jason04r
13-10-13, 11:42 AM
Perfect , Thanks guys

Jason04r
15-10-13, 09:19 PM
Not much happening at the moment.

Battling to remove the gear selector pin from the gearbox ! I need to get some heat on it to part ways before attaching the linkage and new bushes. Gearbox seals are currently at the post office which need collecting...

Things to do :

Rear manifold
Driveshafts , Gearbox Seals
Gearbox Oil
Clutch bracket ( Stupidly forgot about this so i ordered the freelancer one )

Start her up!

Then if everything runs fine then power steering fluid and then install the front end of the car.

Shall update soon.

Jason04r
15-10-13, 09:22 PM
I also stupidly filled the engine with oil and then realised i'd only put one bolt into the air con pump! Battled with the oil cooler for a good 30 minutes and finally being able to shove the screw into place , didnt want to remove the oil ( Lazy )

Note to myself, Engine oils the last thing to do! lol

Jason04r
20-10-13, 06:27 PM
Did some work on the car today , installed left side drive shaft , manifolds , gear linkage..

I've come to a problem with the right hand drive shaft ... i can't get the friggin thing in the gearbox. When i insert it , i feel it going into the grooves then stops. I've tried hitting it with a rubber mallet but no joy so i removed all the surface rust with the Dremel to see if that was the cause but still the same. ( Got this from the same guys who sold me the damaged radiator )

Decided to give up on the drive shaft and wanted to start the car..... more problems...

Connected the battery , turned the key expecting a grumpy KV6 to come to life however all i hear is the starter motor spinning??? Thoughts on this!?

Also noticed fuel pissing out of the fuel rail pipe! Noticed it wasn't connected correctly so i tried to push the dam tubing into the rail but couldn't get the rubber o-ring to pop in. The o-rings really hard so i've ordered a couple to fix this issue...

Thoughts ?

petet16
20-10-13, 07:10 PM
Not sure about the drive shaft problem.

Is the engine turning over, or not.

Jason04r
20-10-13, 07:12 PM
No , just hear the starter motor whizzing

petet16
20-10-13, 07:40 PM
Not a very technical answer, but try giving the starter motor a whack with a hammer.

Jason04r
20-10-13, 07:57 PM
R/C term lol

The starter motor runs when i turn the key, can physically hear it spinning.

Got to wait for o-ring to come before i'll try again ...

Jason04r
27-10-13, 08:42 PM
Well today went well . Managed to get the driveshaft in on the first whack , amazing what a clear head and another day can do . Everything's connected now and after fuel leak from the other side of the fuel rail I started her up ( gave the starter motor a good hit with the hammer). Sounded like a right tractor as I don't have the gasket from manifolds to exhaust haha , ran for about 10 seconds.

Just need a few things now to get it road worthy.

Lack of pictures as everyone's seen a kv6 In a zs haha

petet16
27-10-13, 09:35 PM
Great news, another one back on the road.

peterzs
28-10-13, 09:39 AM
Well done, always a sense of relief when it comes alive.

Once there everything else can be sorted.

Soon be there.

:smile1::smile1::smile1:

Jason04r
28-10-13, 12:36 PM
Got a question guys.

I need gasket no 3:
http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID003507

Would i need exhaust paste for this or will the gasket be enough.

petet16
28-10-13, 01:48 PM
For me I'd use some paste on it, just to be on the safe side in case of a slight mismatch between the flanges.

Jason04r
28-10-13, 03:53 PM
I'm finding it hard to source these:

Screw-flanged head - M10 x 22 clutch slave cylinder bracket screws = KYP10005

I've been to a couple of shops and they don't have the correct thread or size :/

petet16
28-10-13, 03:57 PM
Some in the xpart system http://www.mgroverpartfinder.co.uk/Distributor-KYP10005---SCREW-FLANGED+HEAD.aspx?back=%2fShowProducts.aspx%3fPage Index%3d%26part%3dKYP10005%26browse%3d

What are they for ?.

Jason04r
28-10-13, 03:59 PM
To hold the slave clutch cylinder bracket

petet16
28-10-13, 03:59 PM
M10x22.

petet16
28-10-13, 04:04 PM
M10 flange bolts are no problem, but the length goes in 5mm steps, so either a 20, or 25 and shorten it 3mm.

Jason04r
28-10-13, 04:08 PM
Seen some on ebay but there Allen screw heads... :/

petet16
28-10-13, 04:39 PM
Here you are, http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/M10-A2-STAINLESS-STEEL-HEXAGONAL-FLANGE-BOLTS-DIN6921-10mm-THREAD-FLANGED-/200826112253?pt=UK_DIY_Material_Nails_Fixing_MJ&var=&hash=item2ec22b48fd

Jason04r
28-10-13, 04:52 PM
Oh what i'd do without you pete lol

Jason04r
28-10-13, 11:21 PM
Question ,

What's the two 400watt units behind the front bumper ? Guessing for the lights ?

MG ZS STE
29-10-13, 07:05 AM
Heater fan control ECUs.

Jason04r
07-11-13, 12:31 PM
Waiting for some parts from RimmerBros to complete the build.

I worked out that this car owes me just under £6000!!! Ouch i hope its all worth it ;)

MG ZS STE
08-11-13, 01:19 PM
Waiting for some parts from RimmerBros to complete the build.

I worked out that this car owes me just under £6000!!! Ouch i hope its all worth it ;)

Whoa, thats a lot. could have bought a pristine one over here for that! or a supercharged one and still had change for Pompskis not so pristine one.

POMPSKI
08-11-13, 01:34 PM
still had change for Pompskis not so pristine one.

Ouch!

MG ZS STE
08-11-13, 02:17 PM
Sure it will be again soon pal ;)

Jason04r
08-11-13, 02:52 PM
Run down of why its £6K:

Parts including delivery to Spain

Car - £780.00
Transfer of name and 1 years road tax - £450.00
Recovery to collect it - £900.00
Engine - £500.00
Gearbox - £156.00
New Clutch - £170.00
New Clutch Slave Cylinder- £130.00
Clutch align tool ( which i didn't need ) £28.00
Drive shaft and radiator - £150.00
Engine mounts and various other screws , mounts - £150.00
Gasket set - £50.00
Cam belt + Water pump etc - £215.00
Cam Tool - £130.00
Braided Hoses - £40.00
Yellow stuff pads - £124.00
Gear linkage kit -£35.00
New Steering wheel - £35.00
Headlight cleaning - £35.00
Exhaust tips - £30.00

Engine crane hire - £60.00
Alloy wheels - £180.00
Hankook tyres - £90 a corner ( £360.00 )
Engine & Gearbox oil , Power steering - £80.00

£50 on bolts , gaskets from rimmerbro's which came yesterday.

£4843.00

Tons of tools :
Axel stands , jacks , socket set ....

Loads of small orders of badges etc

So all around £5000.00 and now i have to insure & MOT it , topping £6000.00.

talkingcars
08-11-13, 06:02 PM
You get to keep most of the tools so you can't include them.

Some of the parts list are service items so you can't include them.

Some of the parts are upgrade mods so you can't include them either.

So the worst bit is the £900 recovery.

Once it's on the road it'll be worth every euro cent.

Jason04r
08-11-13, 06:33 PM
True about the parts but still required to get it in the road . Tomorrow's completion day so I can insure for Monday , mot it and enjoy the dam thing

andys1981
08-11-13, 08:24 PM
hope all goes well jason,as james said it will be worth every euro spent,best of luck

Jason04r
11-11-13, 09:53 AM
Cars all in one piece now. Actually nice to see with bumpers and a bonnet after 2 months of bareness :)

Started her up but she sounds extremely P*ssed off , sounds so loud for some reason . could it be the fact i don't have the air filter on? Also sounds very tight if you understand that meaning. Ran for about 10 seconds before i switched it off in-case it was damaging itself...

I could upload a video of the engine running for you to hear , see if i can sort it before my dad comes round on the weekend ;) haha

MG ZS STE
11-11-13, 10:35 AM
Check all the manifolds are done up properly, inlet and the collector.

petet16
11-11-13, 10:52 AM
It'll be louder without the air filter, did you build up some oil pressure on the starter before going for a proper start, and did the oil pressure light go out straight away.

Jason04r
11-11-13, 11:14 AM
The oil light went out. I didn't build any pressure. Which fuse is for the fuel pump so i can build the pressure?

I'll have a bash tonight to double check the all the manifolds and also in the inlet manifold.

petet16
11-11-13, 11:49 AM
It's easier to just to remove the fuel pump relay in the engine bay fusebox, the label on the inside of the lid should show which is the fuel pump, but as you've already run it and the oil light went out ok I wouldn't bother with turning it over dry, if it feels tight it's probably because it hasn't run for a while.

Jason04r
11-11-13, 11:53 AM
Okay thanks again.

I'll have a good look at the manifolds ( I did tighten them much as i could ) , no change then ill do a video and go from there

Jason04r
13-11-13, 08:51 PM
Think I've maybe found the issue. When replacing the inlet manifolds i might of got confused of which lead goes to which injector. Issue is they are the same size so i don't know which goes where??

How i had it originally

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/20131113_211751_zps3bc9151f.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/20131113_211751_zps3bc9151f.jpg.html)
Here is another shot with the leads swapped round:

http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/20131113_211739_zpsa132a815.jpg[/URL]
Other than swapping them and starting the engine , any way to know which is for which

Jason04r
14-11-13, 08:48 PM
Guessing the only way is to start her then , been all through the workshop manuals i have and it obvs doesnt state because normally there longer as the cables go on :/

Jason04r
17-11-13, 01:38 PM
I need some help here guys. Google has failed me

I get these fault codes with the OBD scanner:

P0505- Idle control System malfunction
P0107- MAP/BARO Circuit low input
P0132 - O2 Sensor circuit High volts (Bank 1 , Sensor 1)
P0122- TPS/Throttle position Sensor A Circuit low input
P0113- IAT Sensor 1 circuit high input

Car fails to start.

Help :/

petet16
17-11-13, 02:36 PM
Are you sure the loom plugs are plugged into the right places, all those are round the throttle body area.

The tps should read 5v at pin 2 iirc.

Jason04r
17-11-13, 04:14 PM
Just these codes now:

P0505- Idle control System malfunction - Tested 2 different ones
P0107- MAP/BARO Circuit low input -
P0113- IAT Sensor 1 circuit high input -

Engine management light has gone on. Starts when the throttle i pushed down.

Thoughts on the error codes?

petet16
17-11-13, 04:35 PM
I've got some links for things you can try.

PO505 http://www.obd-codes.com/p0505

PO107 http://www.obd-codes.com/p0107

PO113 http://www.obd-codes.com/p0113

The common thing with these sensors is a 5v supply, so checking that you have the 5v is a good place to start.

Jason04r
18-11-13, 10:13 AM
I need to get a new battery as i were using one from my Astra (65Amp). Done some reading about these codes and most people changed the battery and the issues went away. Also people saying the earth cable could be the problem aswel?

Still getting the 3 error codes and i have changed every sensor on the manifold such a throttle sensor , IAT sensor , Idle control and the car still fails to start without revs from the parts which i got with the car and also the engine i received.

New battery and then go from there...

** Another note. I picked up some power steering fluid but its green instead of the normal red. My dad said not to put it in as its always been the red colour.. Anyone know whats the difference between them?

petet16
18-11-13, 10:20 AM
What spec is the Green oil, the right stuff is ATF Dexron2 which is red.

I wouldn't use it either.

Jason04r
18-11-13, 10:30 AM
Some German brand used in audi's , bmw etc .

Would you know how many litres is needed to fill it , would the steering rack have a drain plug as to give the system a full flush.

petet16
18-11-13, 10:45 AM
There isn't a drain plug for the system, if you want empty it you'll need to disconnect the pipes from the rack which will allow the fluid to drain from the pipes and reservoir, and move the steering from lock to lock to eject the fluid from the rack.

Not sure about the capacity, 2 litres would be more than enough I think.

petet16
18-11-13, 11:10 AM
A bit of digging reveals that the Green pas fluid is CHF11, it seems it's main advantage is that it has better cold weather performance than ATF, which will be useful in Spain lol.

As to it's interchangeability with atf, some say yes, some say no.

Jason04r
18-11-13, 11:35 AM
A bit of digging reveals that the Green pas fluid is CHF11, it seems it's main advantage is that it has better cold weather performance than ATF, which will be useful in Spain lol.

As to it's interchangeability with atf, some say yes, some say no.

Its 10 degrees now and its freezing!

petet16
18-11-13, 11:41 AM
Sweltering here..........................10.4'C

Jason04r
18-11-13, 11:53 AM
I'm use to 20 degrees daily and all of a sudden its 10!

I went back to the UK in September , watched the BTCC at rockingham.. so cold even with 2 jumpers and a ski jacket haha!

caled
18-11-13, 11:57 AM
I went back to the UK in September , watched the BTCC at rockingham.. so cold even with 2 jumpers and a ski jacket haha!

Know how you feel on that one, went to Rockingham in 2012 and got thoroughly, utterly drenched. Even saturated my waterproof blanket.

Still, made me happy as it was like a day at the races for some people, suits and women in high heels and such. That'll learn 'em.

petet16
18-11-13, 02:42 PM
PAS capacity is approx 1.5 litres, so 2 litres would be plenty.

Jason04r
18-11-13, 03:22 PM
PAS capacity is approx 1.5 litres, so 2 litres would be plenty.

Perfect , Thanks!

talkingcars
18-11-13, 08:57 PM
Its 10 degrees now and its freezing!

There's been snow in northern Spain yesterday!

Jason04r
19-11-13, 01:16 PM
Now wonder its been cold!

Another issue:

Fuel gauge stays at just under a quarter , doesn't move at all with ignition on or off...

Buggered gauge?

Adam 180 V6
19-11-13, 01:28 PM
Now wonder its been cold!

Another issue:

Fuel gauge stays at just under a quarter , doesn't move at all with ignition on or off...

Buggered gauge?

Thats fine. zs fuel gauges stay where they are when ignition is turned off

petet16
19-11-13, 01:39 PM
As above, normal behaviour.

Jason04r
19-11-13, 02:04 PM
Thing is i got the car and the fuel tank was empty. I put 5 litres in the tank which wouldnt add up to nearly a quarter :/

grimmy
19-11-13, 02:42 PM
Thing is i got the car and the fuel tank was empty. I put 5 litres in the tank which wouldnt add up to nearly a quarter :/

That's possibly why the engine won't run properly they need around twenty litres in the tank.to run properly from empty.

Jason04r
19-11-13, 04:18 PM
Better get a bigger jerry can haha.

Thanks , Will check later

talkingcars
19-11-13, 06:00 PM
That's possibly why the engine won't run properly they need around twenty litres in the tank.to run properly from empty.

Seconded.
Might explain some of your running problems.
You can run them down to almost empty but once they run out you will need 20 litres to get it going again.

The gauge will only move when the ignition is on, when you switch it off it will stay in the same place.

Jason04r
23-11-13, 09:45 PM
Would the clutch bracket on the diesel version be the same as the 180?

I ordered the ones from ebay but there a different thread. The guy i got the wheels from has the diesel ZS which he is stripping for parts...

Compatible?

petet16
23-11-13, 09:51 PM
No, different, the diesel has the slave cylinder next to the engine rather than on the gearbox as the 180 is.

petet16
23-11-13, 09:53 PM
Diesel http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID003456

Jason04r
23-11-13, 10:14 PM
Ah fair enough...

Another question.. the 3 error codes i got link to a earth problem . I currently have the negative cable connected to the bolt just above where the slave bracket would go. Would this be the reason the im getting these codes? I would of thought it was all the same but another note the cable to the slam panel is connected fine with good contact.

petet16
23-11-13, 10:18 PM
The earths sound to be connected ok, you could try using a spare jump lead to earth from the engine to body, just to make sure it's not an earth problem.

Which 3 codes do you still have.

Jason04r
23-11-13, 10:24 PM
P0505- Idle control System malfunction
P0107- MAP/BARO Circuit low input -
P0113- IAT Sensor 1 circuit high input -

All these on my MG workshop manual state its a open circuit problem or a earth problem.

I've changed all these sensors for the ones i got with the car and also with the engine and doesn't make a difference... erasing the codes , remove the batt , install the sensors , scan and the same codes keep coming back.

petet16
23-11-13, 10:39 PM
The fact that they keep coming back tells me there is a genuine problem, and it's not just a random spurious fault which can sometimes log a fault code.

I don't think the engine earthing would give you those fault codes either, did you disturb the engine loom when you had it all apart, and did you remove the ecu.

Jason04r
23-11-13, 10:50 PM
Loom i had to change as the engine was from the 75. Its the original loom and ecu which i got with the car , manifold and sensors are the original aswel.

Just found these which i printed from the manual:
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/photo2_zps0c21944f.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/photo2_zps0c21944f.jpg.html)
http://i33.photobucket.com/albums/d100/Jnnw123/photo1_zps180451ee.jpg (http://s33.photobucket.com/user/Jnnw123/media/photo1_zps180451ee.jpg.html)

Short to battery - thought i was missing something

petet16
23-11-13, 10:57 PM
A couple of things to check, have a good look at the loom to make sure that there isn't a disconnected earth anywhere, and also for any signs of chafing on the loom.

Jason04r
23-11-13, 11:05 PM
Lets hope it doesn't rain tomorrow so i can go through it all...

petet16
23-11-13, 11:09 PM
Lets hope not, tracking down random niggles can be a pita, even more so in your case as the car was in pieces when you got it, so it may have had those faults before the previous owner dismantled things.