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caled
03-01-15, 04:05 PM
Hi folks,

I'm after the front most fuel pipe that connects from the fuel filter to the fuel rail on a ZS 180. Anyone got one?

Mine is very awkward to reseat after its been disturbed, and takes a lot of fiddling before it'll stop weeping fuel. I'm hoping another fuel pipe will sort it! Tried looking new, but nothing on Rimmers.

Thanks

MG ZS STE
03-01-15, 04:58 PM
Will have a look next time I go for a fag ;)

petet16
03-01-15, 05:01 PM
Mind your fag doesn't set it alight :blink:

petet16
03-01-15, 05:05 PM
I think this the one you want, from the fuel filter, and the flexible pipe attaches to it
http://www.mgroverpartfinder.co.uk/Distributor-WKB100281---ADAPTOR+FUEL+LINES.aspx?back=%2fShowProducts.aspx% 3fPageIndex%3d%26part%3dWKB100281%26browse%3d

petet16
03-01-15, 05:11 PM
Another possible.
http://www.mgroverpartfinder.co.uk/Distributor-WKB100281---ADAPTOR+FUEL+LINES.aspx?back=%2fShowProducts.aspx% 3fPageIndex%3d%26part%3dWKB100281%26browse%3d

talkingcars
03-01-15, 05:12 PM
Will the same item for the freelander/zt/75/45 fit?

caled
03-01-15, 05:17 PM
Will have a look next time I go for a fag ;)

That would be great, if you could

Pete, didn't spot that - thats the pipe that runs from the fuel filter to the pipe that I need. All these bloody pipes! The part I need is WJH105330, number 1 on the following:

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID003513

Its the one that plugs directly in to the fuel rail. It's that junction that is always bleeding weeping, it takes a lot of fiddling to get it to sit right, and Im hoping its the pipe rather than the fuel rail that needs replacing.

Its been disturbed a fair few times now, for the thermostat, the clutch kit and now to replace the manifold and the vis motors - and I've just bleeding broken the balance VIS - AARRRGGHH. It had a burnt out track, I replaced the wires, plugged it back in, let it home, and then I attached it back to the plenum and flap. Only I didn't think to check whether the flap should be open or closed. D'oh. The flap was closed, and it looks like its burnt out two more tracks trying to close a flap that was already closed. I read somewhere that the motors were good for pulling a couple of amps, hence the burnt tracks.
Anyway, I rewired those, plugged it back in to home and the motor starts smoking. Im just hoping I haven't damaged anything further up the wires. Got to get a new one of them now, too

As the car stands, its now sat in the garage with the battery disconnected, a gutted balance motor (I didn't like the smoking part!) and it dripping petrol (now occasionally as I spent a fair few tense minutes trying to stop the torrent of petrol).
Joys of now classic car ownership, eh?

caled
03-01-15, 05:21 PM
Will the same item for the freelander/zt/75/45 fit?

Oh, I don't know?

talkingcars
03-01-15, 05:25 PM
Apparently the same part was only on the MGF and the earlier one at that.

The later F had a different part which Rimmers have at £4.14, might be worth a try.

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-GRID000241

talkingcars
03-01-15, 05:33 PM
Sorry, my post is passed on Petes part number, the one Calid lists is only for the 45/ZS V6.

petet16
03-01-15, 05:57 PM
You sound to be having a bit of a nightmare with it Caled

petet16
03-01-15, 06:01 PM
One on ebay in Germany

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Original-Kraftstoffleitung-Rover-45-V6-WJH105330-/261708574182

caled
03-01-15, 06:32 PM
One on ebay in Germany

http://www.ebay.de/itm/Original-Kraftstoffleitung-Rover-45-V6-WJH105330-/261708574182

Already messaged them about this, hopefully they speak English!

petet16
03-01-15, 06:40 PM
Hopefully yes, it could get awkward otherwise

Jason04r
03-01-15, 06:40 PM
If its leaking where it connects to the rail then it could just be the o ring , happened with mine and found the o ring to be rock solid .. changed it and it's all fine

caled
03-01-15, 07:53 PM
Where's the o ring? I had a look and couldn't see where the o ring was.

MG ZS STE
03-01-15, 09:37 PM
That would be great, if you could

sorry man, think i must have sold it with the fuel rail.

caled
03-01-15, 11:51 PM
sorry man, think i must have sold it with the fuel rail.

No worries bud, cheers for looking!

red robbo
04-01-15, 07:37 AM
If its leaking where it connects to the rail then it could just be the o ring , happened with mine and found the o ring to be rock solid .. changed it and it's all fine

As above. Same problem, weeping fuel after separating and rejoining. I didn't replace my "O" ring, I just added a very, very slender 2nd ring and pushed together, making sure all the locking tabs had engaged. Never had a issue since (repaired over a year ago).

Jason04r
04-01-15, 11:15 AM
Where's the o ring? I had a look and couldn't see where the o ring was.

Believe that's your problem. It's the same size o ring as the ones for connecting the rail to the injectors

caled
04-01-15, 11:59 AM
Cheers for all the help, guys, I really appreciate it.

I've being reading up more on this connection - looks like I'm far from the only person who has struggled with this stupid design!

I'm shamelessly pinching images from the 75andZt forum from user ssizefive

Here is the rail and pipe that I wanted (on the right):

http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr324/ssizefive/100_4175_zps28ec3275.jpg (http://s496.photobucket.com/user/ssizefive/media/100_4175_zps28ec3275.jpg.html)

And here is a close up of the fuel pipe as it pulls out from my fuel rail:

http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr324/ssizefive/100_4174_zps4c8498b1.jpg (http://s496.photobucket.com/user/ssizefive/media/100_4174_zps4c8498b1.jpg.html)

Looking at those images, the rest of the gubbins inside the fuel rail looks like this:

http://i496.photobucket.com/albums/rr324/ssizefive/100_4173_zps9be7eb8c.jpg (http://s496.photobucket.com/user/ssizefive/media/100_4173_zps9be7eb8c.jpg.html)

I can just about see the orange bit inside the fuel rail, so looks like I need to disassemble it a bit more. When people are referring to replacing the o ring, are they referring to the black o ring sandwiched between the yellow and orange bits?

Having seen those pictures now, I'm sure there will be a way of getting all back together again!

stamford
04-01-15, 02:12 PM
Most of the damage is done when separating the joint, it needs two small screwdrivers to ease it apart evenly. Then a fine smear of vaseline to ease it back together, again evenly. I guess I was lucky as never had an issue with this joint, more so the injector 'o' rings I have found troublesome.

caled
04-01-15, 02:16 PM
Well, having seen that picture of the o rings, I decided to go have another go of it.

Managed to excavate the o rings and found that they would more appropriately be called c rings. Replaced with a couple of viton o rings I had and Robert's your mother's brother.

Oddly though, compared to the picture above, the orange black and yellow o rings were on the other side of the black collar, ie the bits on the left most and the right most extremes on the third image were actually next to each other on mine. Seems to have worked though.