View Full Version : 180 starting issues
As a few of you know I bought nors silver 180.the car has always seemed to have a vis issue and no end of swapped plenums and vis motors cured it.so I decided to change the engine loom and all was well car started first time and vis problem was gone and ran the car for nearly an hour with no issue.however tonight decided to go and finish buttoning up all the last wee bits like engine cover and air filter refitting and the battery was flat.no problem jump started the car and it started perfectly ran for 30 seconds or so then died and now won't start.it cranks over fine but won't fire it read crank sensor on the code reader which I cleared and never came back but no dice it still won't fire.so any ideas.immobiliser taking a mad turn due to flat battery? There hasn't been an issue with any codes until it conked out.all connectors are connected fine any other ideas?.:slap:
M17TT180
21-09-15, 10:05 PM
Crank sensor?
you cleared the crank sensor eml fault, it hasn't started since?
crank sensor imo
That is what I would think as well but it seems to much of a coincidence that a perfectly working crank sensor would give up after the car was started after changing the loom and the battery being dead and it now shows no fault code.
Rockey5uk2001
22-09-15, 06:40 AM
That is what I would think as well but it seems to much of a coincidence that a perfectly working crank sensor would give up after the car was started after changing the loom and the battery being dead and it now shows no fault code.
Funny things happen in the joys of motoring mate :)
petet16
22-09-15, 10:05 AM
Are all the earths good,
Are all the earths good,
Yeah all seems good Pete.cranks great but doesn't fire.
glane85
22-09-15, 11:33 AM
No idea what the problem is, but from what I've read about the KV6 if the ECU sees any fault from the crank sensor it prevents the car from firing. That info was from a Freelander KV6 manual, but I imagine it is the same for any KV6 regardless of which car it is mounted in. I think from memory, if it detects a fault with the crank sensor while the engine is running, the ECU also shuts the engine down too. Could be a problem with teh sensor itself, or the wiring/connection to the sensor? There have been a few threads in the past on several MG sites, where people have said "car won't start" or "car cut out", and advice has been to clean the crank sensor. Apparently it can become dirty within the housing and a good clean can help. No experience of this personally, but just relaying info that may help...assuming it is true, of course!
petet16
22-09-15, 11:47 AM
Have you checked that the fuel cut off switch behind the centre console hasn't been tripped ?
No idea what the problem is, but from what I've read about the KV6 if the ECU sees any fault from the crank sensor it prevents the car from firing. That info was from a Freelander KV6 manual, but I imagine it is the same for any KV6 regardless of which car it is mounted in. I think from memory, if it detects a fault with the crank sensor while the engine is running, the ECU also shuts the engine down too. Could be a problem with teh sensor itself, or the wiring/connection to the sensor? There have been a few threads in the past on several MG sites, where people have said "car won't start" or "car cut out", and advice has been to clean the crank sensor. Apparently it can become dirty within the housing and a good clean can help. No experience of this personally, but just relaying info that may help...assuming it is true, of course!all info helps cheers.like I say looking at any avenues TBH
Have you checked that the fuel cut off switch behind the centre console hasn't been tripped ?
That's another thing I was think pete.don't know how it would have got tripped but another thing to look at.just trying to list as many ways of attacking as I can won't get to it until the weekend as its in the garage which has a slope in to it so if I can't get it started I can't get it back in there.
Dan1971
22-09-15, 01:42 PM
Couldn't you take the crank sensor out of your good car and try it in this one ... ?
Couldn't you take the crank sensor out of your good car and try it in this one ... ?
Was thinking that Dan but it's in an area of a place to get I to and don't want to risk two dead cars.
Dan1971
22-09-15, 03:36 PM
Was thinking that Dan but it's in an area of a place to get I to and don't want to risk two dead cars.
My bad - thought the sensor you were on about was the one on the front of the engine block. My Mk1 had a starting problem and when I got one of them for £10 second hand it was sorted. Maybe that sensor then mate - I thought it was the crank or maybe camshaft sensor ... ?
It's certainly easy enough to swap out - even I did it!
The one at the front is the cam one Dan the crank one is around the belts I think.I have a spare cam sensor sitting as well.sods law really.
talkingcars
22-09-15, 03:59 PM
Don't forget when changing the loom you may have disturbed the sensors that were running ok but were on the edge.
Get the battery fully charged before trying to start the car again.
Jason04r
22-09-15, 08:21 PM
Simular problem with mine . Turned out to be the fuel regulator valve was open therefore no pressure in the fuel system . When turning the ignition does the pump have a high pitched or deep ? Another test would be to remove a spaek plug and crank the engine , I believe if the crank sensors faulty then you wouldn't have a spark. ( don't hold the spark plug , hold it on something metal )
may sound obvious, but have you double checked engine bay fuses?
So went out for a look today.fresh battery,fuses,fuel kill switch,fuel pump, priming normally.still won't start.code reader then shows multiple codeshttp://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u173/grimmy1973/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-26-13-58-44.png (http://s168.photobucket.com/user/grimmy1973/media/Mobile%20Uploads/Screenshot_2015-09-26-13-58-44.png.html)
Couple more questions guys.is the crank sensor in a different location on the mk2 than the mk1 as I can't for the life of me find the bloody thing using the sensor location diagram which is on the site and also now it is blowing a fuse in the engine fuse box when the battery is connected any ideas as to why that has just started.getting fed up now.this car may end up getting broken if I can't get it running soon.
petet16
26-09-15, 03:27 PM
The crank sensor will prevent it starting, the other 2 won't.
It is located down the back of the engine, just above where the drivers side shaft comes out of the gearbox.
I'm not sure about why the fuse keeps blowing
petet16
26-09-15, 03:28 PM
Which fuse keeps blowing ?
On the fuse box there are two 15 amp ones next to each other both have an engine shape with electric flash through them.it's one of them.when the battery was reconnected there was a repeating click and a repeating beep from the interior then a crack and the fuse blew.
petet16
26-09-15, 04:00 PM
I've just had a look in my fuse box, F1 & F3,
F1 is the alarm ecu, sounder unit, and the alarm led, try disconnecting the sounder unit under the expansion tank.
F3 is the ecu.
Cheers Pete will have looksie at that tomorrow it .the clicking does sound like a relay for the alarm and hazards before it melts the fuse and will have a go at the crank sensor as well.the problem is the car is in my garage which is short and narrow and the entrance is on a slope so if I roll it out I can't get it put away again lol.
petet16
26-09-15, 04:19 PM
Yeah, being on a slope doesn't help.
Yeah, being on a slope doesn't help.
Yeah that's an issue just trying to put the car away when it doesn't run requires a few bodies to get it done and it's really stopping me getting g right into the job.
talkingcars
26-09-15, 07:22 PM
I had something similar on my car last year but OBD2 was saying the cam sensor had failed. It transpired that the wiring for the rear front lanbda (sp?) (bank 1 sensor 2?) had been damaged by being too close to the exhaust and was shorting out.
A repair to the wiring resolved the starting but I ended up having to replace the sensor to get the car to run correctly.
I had something similar on my car last year but OBD2 was saying the cam sensor had failed. It transpired that the wiring for the rear front lanbda (sp?) (bank 1 sensor 2?) had been damaged by being too close to the exhaust and was shorting out.
A repair to the wiring resolved the starting but I ended up having to replace the sensor to get the car to run correctly.
I think something similar is happening here as well James.to many random faults and codes showing up that make no sense.just can't get a right good look at it annoyingly.
That's the fuse that popped on the black one when it had a soggy sounder bud, unplug that and try replacing the fuse see if it still pops.
The evaporation fault is that the charcoal canister???
That's the fuse that popped on the black one when it had a soggy sounder bud, unplug that and try replacing the fuse see if it still pops.
The evaporation fault is that the charcoal canister???
Yeah I think so Gary but I suspect a wiring fault that is throwing up the codes.
Not good on wiring but if that is one of the codes being thrown up could it be a break or bare wire on one of the wires that connects to the canister therefore possibly making it a bit easier to trace??? Most likely this is of no help whatsoever I'm afraid:D
*goes to shine the 'Big Kev' symbol into the sky to alert him to a cry for help*
Hopefully I can have another fettle with it tonight after work for a bit.will remove the sounder and try fuses again first and see if it will at least crank over again.anything else will be a bonus lol.
Woohoo it's running again .happy days thanks Marcus and the random bloke in my street for helping me turn the car around so I could work on it.thanks Pete for the find on the fuse popping issue and everyone who threw in ideas.so soggy sounder removed it stopped blowing fuses then I had a fiddle with the crank sensor connector among pretty much every other one in the engine bay.I removed the purge valve and refitted it.connected my new jump start pack turned the key and hey presto it fired straight up no lumpy running no misfires it does however have a sticky throttle and the same error codes keep coming up but that's for another day just happy I haven't killed it.:thankyou:
petet16
02-10-15, 11:39 AM
Whoop :trampoline:
talkingcars
02-10-15, 07:48 PM
Worth sticking at it, well done, judging by faceache most would have broken it.
Dan1971
03-10-15, 06:44 AM
Well done mate ...
stamford
03-10-15, 08:24 AM
Good news grimmy. :thumbsup:
peterzs
03-10-15, 10:07 AM
well done for not scrapping it.
:whistle::whistle::whistle:
Excellent, glad you got it sorted. Soggy sounders get everywhere:)
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