L Series MIL Light

[JRMVVC]

Hi Guys

A while back i had a power surge that basically fried most of the electrics & set the alarm off & i couldnt stop it.

I took the sounder off & wrapped it in a blanket & put in a bucket in the garage, damn thing took 4 days to stop!

Anyway ive had the SCU box out & completely rebuilt by Technozen & sorted some of the wiring out that was in a bit of a mess behind the centre console & now using the car everyday again & it drives fine.

However ive got the MIL light on with the code P1402 displayed on the reader. I have done some googleicious on the code but wanted to ask some of you who are more in the know -

Will it do any harm to the car/engine if i just ignore the MIL light until the EGR, Decat & remap is done early next year or is it something i need to sort sooner?

Cheers
Johnny

[peterzs]

Hi I have a tweaked Derv and the only time I have had the MIL light on was when we blanked off the ERG

Put all the stuff back to O/E and the light went out, dont know how you fried the electrics or if you played around with the ERG set up.

There is a problem with the MK2 alarm system, you can get a "soggy sounder", water can get into the sounder unit under the coolant bottle and corrodes the innards. The trick is to open the sounder up, dry it out and reseal it. My one went and did all that but it was too far corroded where the internal battery connectors were. Used to go off driving along, or just randomly after locking it up.

Secondhand sounder sorted it.

Just pinched this, with thanks, from Rover tec. http://www.rovertech.net/forum/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=109042

:):):)

[talkingcars]

.....I took the sounder off & wrapped it in a blanket & put in a bucket in the garage, damn thing took 4 days to stop!.....

....There is a problem with the MK2 alarm system, you can get a "soggy sounder", water can get into the sounder unit under the coolant bottle and corrodes the innards....

If the bucket had water in it the sounder would be very soggy.

[talkingcars]

More seriously Johnny, have you done any thing to the EGR valve?

[p_b82]

So I'm guessing your's is the Mk2 the fact that the reader shows the codes, so it is detecting a problem with the EGR - vacuum hose unplugged if you've not blanked it all already?

shouldn't be an issue to drive around with it and the code should be able to be removed once you get it remapped. (the MK1 doesn't have this issue so no 100% on that!)

[JRMVVC]

Hi Guys
Thanks for the info, yeah it is a mk2 car late 2005, ive been told its part one of the last ZS batches produced, although im not so sure.
Ironically the MIL light did not come on when i drove home tonight, will go outside & start the car & see if ti returns...strange, i havent cleaned anything??
I havent fitted the EGR delete kit yet but have some plans for some bits to go on.

Mainly looking at making the car more refined before uppping the power a bit.

Cheers
Johnny

[p_b82]

It's probably then that your EGR is gummed up and not working properly - will throw the code as well.

blanking the EGR will reduce the refinement a bit, or not change it at all... you get slower warm up time without it.....

a decent air filter, gutting the cat, (fitting SDI's) and a remap will give you more gains than leaving or removing the EGR, both refinement and power :)

I took mine out as I wanted to measure the temperatures in the exhaust manifold, (and later pressure), on the L it only works on constant throttle so unless you're on the mway or stuck in traffic (at which point it is on a timer) it is not actually open all that often....

[talkingcars]

I scanned a Rover 45 diesel for some one tonight that has intermittent stuttering, one of the codes was P1402 EGR Metering Orifice Restricted.

[JRMVVC]

So is it best to block the EGR or fit a delete kit then?
Im putting some sound deadening/heat insulation in the car, what air filter unit do you recommend, i did look at ASH's cone filter & heat shield but i think they are too big for the available space.

[p_b82]

It depends on why you want to stop the EGR from working as designed I guess.

some argue that they fill the inlet up with crud and you suffer performance losses as a result - and over time that can happen, but unless you are running something more like my levels of tune, you'll probably not notice it by the "bum dyno"

Most blank it so that it is removed, and they don't have to worry about it, rather than for any performance or refinement issues - as said I needed the hole for testing, and never but it back on again :)

The air filter I use fits perfectly in place of the airbox (K4.80 green filter), unbolt it, and just pop the cone in place, I use a couple of cable ties as well to stop it moving around too much - there is a huge debate about shielded vs not on a diesel, but it depends on the level of tune, and what smoke you are cope with will depend on the filter setup.....

for most of us, we are prepared to take the hit on the heatsoak for the extra air throughput provided by a cone - which reduces smoke, even with just SDI & remap it is noticeable.

I will eventually be moving the battery to the boot, and building a custom airbox as I can and do see the effects of heatsoak with my current setup, but my intercooler is pretty good so once moving again it drops quickly on post IC temps

here's an old pic of my setup

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v472/pretty_bird/DSC_0010.jpg