View Full Version : T16
Picked up the T16 from Stamford a few weeks back now and have been chasing issues, as normal when you pick up a new secondhand car.
First issue was that I was not 100% happy with the suspension, so had a look under the car to find that the roll bar bushes were shot, so replaced them with new OE ones from rimmers.
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While there found some odd rubber "spring helpers" wound around the front springs, so pulled them off as well. Handling is 1000 x better now :)
Next was to find out why the interior fan wasn't working, after finding the resistor pack had disintegrated and fan seized I replaced both of them, but still it didn't work. Further investigation found that a fuse in the engine bay had gone so replaced that and now all is well.
something that has been annoying since we picked the car up (and I think Mick was chasing as well) was around 3-4k rpm the car would run rough, but only under load. Mick had already changed the coolant temp sender and on research the symptoms could also be spark plugs, rotor arm, distributor cap, cam or crank sensors as well.
Replaced the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor arm, then cleaned up the earth points, but this didn't sort the issue.
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Whilst changing the plugs I found the throttle body mount was in bad shape and leaking air, so replaced it and then commisioned an alloy one to be made up :) - still waiting for this, will fit when it arrives.
Unplugged the cam sensor and car still ran, so then replugged it in and unplugged the crank sensor and again car still ran fine. So unlikely to be them, however I removed them both to clean them.
Whilst cleaning the crank sensor i noticed a small plastic pipe that comes out of the manifold and goes to the MEMS unit was not connected. I pushed this back into place and it popped out again as soon as I stepped back (not running the engine).
I did some research and found this is the MAP sensor, so using a zip tie reattached to the mems unit. Then took the car for a drive.
its much much better now, no rough running and a bit more power to boot :)
So what's next on the cards? Well it has a significant oil leak from somewhere, so next is to locate and fix that. Although I am told switching to 10W50 oil might help, so I will perform a full service at some point and see if that helps. Also I would like a pscan to connect to this (and my F's) ECU :)
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Oh glad you've made some progress with it, but shame about the niggles....
no boost signal getting back to the ECU, I'm amazed it didn't run like a dog all the time... the L-series does when the map sensors hose is disconnected!
talkingcars
29-10-17, 06:09 PM
That is some progress.
It'll be worth checking that you still connect a scanner to the system, numpty who fitted my T16 in the maestro butchered the scanner wiring.
That is some progress.
It'll be worth checking that you still connect a scanner to the system, numpty who fitted my T16 in the maestro butchered the scanner wiring.
Deffo got the three pin diags hanging out the mems unit :) just need pscan and the adaptor :)
Also forgot to say that I had some new tyres fitted and 4 wheel alignment done, on fitting the wheels back to the rear drivers side, one of the studs fell off.
A quick ebay later and I had a new hub assembly at my door and fitted the same day (as delivery, 2 days after tyre fitting).
As the car has spacers (due to the brembo 4 pots) I am considering longer studs in the future, not made my mind up just yet :)
stamford
29-10-17, 08:26 PM
Pleased you are finding the time I didn't have. I do miss it but had to be done. There is more hidden than first realised, shame really as it didn't seem the case, probably why it didn't do many miles?
Dan1971
29-10-17, 09:11 PM
Safe hands indeed. Good that it's gone to one of us who has the knowledge and drive to get it running well and keep us posted with progress.
Decided to take the car to work today, 40 mile trip either direction.
On the way there I noticed that under hard acceleration at around 3.5k revs the whole thing cut out like hitting a brick wall. Blooming scary if you don't understand boost-cut.
Boost-cut, or fuel-cut, for those that don't know what it is. Is when the ecu detects an "Over Boost" and cuts fuel to protect the engine, and when it does this it is very very harsh! Seriously its like hitting a brick wall.
The MEMS 1.6 ECU boost-cuts at 14.5psi. Looking at the boost gauge the car was hitting 1.25 bar (roughly 18 psi) so I stopped at some services and wound back the boost regulator 5 clicks (no idea what a click is, just seemed a good number) and continued to work.
The exact same thing happened at 1.25 bar, so at work I did some research and discovered that this particular car was built at 14psi of boost with standard internals, but must at some point have been wound up to about 22psi!!
So, I would back to 14 psi (roughly 1 bar) and the journey home had no boost-cuts at all. So problem solved.
BUT! On the A272 I was stuck behind a slow driver, hitting max speeds of 30 in nationals and 25 in the 50 zones... So, knowing my boost-cut issues were solved and knowing the road I decided to overtake.
<insert naughty words here> I dropped two gears and pulled out then floored it as you do, fighting the torque steer and within what felt like a second I hit 70 and couldn't see any cars behind me. Damn this thing is fast! and handles well when it needs to!
Checked my speed for the change in limit, checked my trousers and continued home... lesson learned, you don't need to floor the T16 when overtaking!!!
stamford
30-10-17, 06:30 PM
:laugh: it is a bit of an animal isn't it! I floored it a couple of times and fought the torque steer, you need some room to control it. Drives well when not on boost, quite civilised!
:laugh: it is a bit of an animal isn't it! I floored it a couple of times and fought the torque steer, you need some room to control it. Drives well when not on boost, quite civilised!
I must admit, I've floored it a few times before and thought it was quick, but that's the first time "in anger" flooring it since fixing the issues that slowed it down. Nice and smooth power delivery, easy to spin wheels in third without thinking and quicker than the RX8 by a long way (ours is a 231 bhp standard car) I wasn't expecting how much power it can put down and how nice the delivery is :)
talkingcars
30-10-17, 10:34 PM
Sounds like my T16 maestro (when it's on the road).
I love that feeling the first time one floors it in anger in a really fast car..... I equally appreciate the stupid grin and double checking no brown trousers! :D
I wonder what torque the T16 is kicking out - I presume it running a Torsen in it?
In 3rd and upwards (torque limited in 1st & 2nd) mine would give a strong tug if you floored it even with the Quaife, and that's only at around 270lbsft.....
I am slightly concerned what it might be like when we get the turbo on (that is getting closer to occurring now); with current injectors we'll not see much more torque, but there's potential with the experimental ones I've got to see 300+ and a lot still at the top end!
Glad to hear tho that you're enjoying the car :)
I love that feeling the first time one floors it in anger in a really fast car..... I equally appreciate the stupid grin and double checking no brown trousers! :D
I wonder what torque the T16 is kicking out - I presume it running a Torsen in it?
In 3rd and upwards (torque limited in 1st & 2nd) mine would give a strong tug if you floored it even with the Quaife, and that's only at around 270lbsft.....
I am slightly concerned what it might be like when we get the turbo on (that is getting closer to occurring now); with current injectors we'll not see much more torque, but there's potential with the experimental ones I've got to see 300+ and a lot still at the top end!
Glad to hear tho that you're enjoying the car :)
According to my research it has a Quaiffe diff in it ;)
The torque in the car feels more than the 180, however until I am 100% happy with the way it runs and stick it on a rolling road, noone will know for sure what it has torque/power wise. I know this engine kicked out 260Bhp in the 420, before it was transplanted to the ZS, so quietly am hoping for a higher figure now ;)
Some research for today...
7 years ago, when it was built by AMW Motorsport (Then called AA Motorsport) the engine spec was standard internals, gt28 turbo, Cookie downpipe, Pulsar fmic, 14psi, Mongoose exhaust and decat, Brembo 4 Pot calipers and bigger front discs, Radtec alloy rad and twin fans and a ITG cold air box.
The interior has changed, fitting heated seats, mk1 ZS Red Monaco seat covers, rear headrests, electric front and rear windows.
Suspension mods: zs180 front and rear arb's, poly bushed arb's, Bilstein shocks and Eibach xpower springs - 25mm drop.
Between then and it coming into my ownership it has had a Sports Cat added and Exhaust changed to a duel exit with Clio Diffuser. It has also had an Alloy cam cover and oil cap, custom made for it and fitted.
Found a picture of the 420 the engine came from too: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y142/petet16/car_zpse3f904bf.jpg
I will update this thread, as I find things, to keep all info in one place :)
Will be keeping an eye on this thread, looks like it's going to be good. :)
Sent from my F5121 using Tapatalk
Annoyingly...
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The gear selector steady rod has fallen off the gearbox :(
Luckily not too bad a fix, once I find the appropriate bolt and dished washer... annoying all the same though!
Oh dear :(
hopefully not too much of an issue getting it and yourself back home/work!
Oh dear :(
hopefully not too much of an issue getting it and yourself back home/work!
I opted for AA to take me home, then carried on to work in the 180 :)
Also just purchased the bolt and washer from Rimmer Brothers, and a short shift from Dark Ice... Contemplating the link upgrade, but think i will get under first and see if its needed :)
Skillen
14-11-17, 01:22 PM
I opted for AA to take me home, then carried on to work in the 180 :)
Also just purchased the bolt and washer from Rimmer Brothers, and a short shift from Dark Ice... Contemplating the link upgrade, but think i will get under first and see if its needed :)
Got a shortshifter on mine now. It’s a good mod. Really reduced the throw.
I also did the joint replacement too along with the bushes. It’s like a different shift now. Much more positive.
Car is repaired :) and I can select gears again :trampoline:
However... I have a coolant leak :(
Its coming from whatever is under the alternator... water pump at a guess? Not looked to close as its pitch black and saw it by torchlight :)
Dan1971
15-11-17, 07:23 PM
Car is repaired :) and I can select gears again :trampoline:
However... I have a coolant leak :(
Its coming from whatever is under the alternator... water pump at a guess? Not looked to close as its pitch black and saw it by torchlight :)
Car is repaired - Yey !
Coolant leak - Boo !
One step forwards another to the side!
I went to drive the ZS the other night after putting it all back together - flat tyre and battery!
Hopefully nothing too serious for you to fix on the coolant side!
Doesn't matter how much fluid I put in the header tank, it just flows straight out the water pump! So... yeah.. deffo water pump.
I have purchased 20 (I know I only need 5!) M6 bolts and a water pump with all O rings etc, for around £30, just waiting for it all to turn up now :)
As I see it I have two issues, otherwise its a straight forward change over.
1. People report the crap OE M6 bolts will be corroded and snap when I try to undo them, at this point its a 50/50 if they need drilling out on a bench drill or can be removed with pliers or similar.
2. Since this system is all Stainless coolant pipes and Samco silicone pipes there is no bleed screw... so I will have to work out another way of bleeding the system.
Oh and the F has issues with oil (none in the sump and it wont let me put anything in the filler pipe...) and the RX8 died a death and needs a new engine... leaving me with one working car, the 180 that desperately needs a respray and some other bodywork! - Still at least we are mobile still :)
Dan1971
17-11-17, 02:52 PM
Something to be said there then for the 180 even after it took a prang recently. Get her sprayed up - show her some love.
Some good news and some bad news...
I have been quiet on the T16 front for a while as a few weeks back (months!) we took the T16 up to Halifax and while there it started to idle odd and stalled a couple of times at lights. She made it home without drama though and then parked up and refuses to start at all since.
The other week I decided to check her out and see what I could find, I pressure tested the engine to find only 1-2 PSI in all cylinders. So thats it, dead engine.
Now when I picked the car up it was suffering, what I now know was, boost cut due to the boost being set to 24psi. I suspect what has happened is that the ring lands have gone as is when you run over 12 psi for any long time (Pete ran 14psi since the rebuild).
Since then I have been quietly amassing parts, I have some wossner pistons on PEC rods (weighted set), new big end bearings, head gasket kit, sump gasket kit (which should fix a small oil leak it has as well!) and new piston rings for the wossner. Also purchased a few new tools to help me fit all this (pistons ring pliers for example).
All that is left is new stretch bolts and then I can begin the rebuild :trampoline:
Then I think she can go into the booth for a much needed paint refresh!
I will keep this updated as an when I start the process.
LukeZS96
29-04-18, 09:10 AM
Not great news on the engine front, atleast you're trying to rebuild it rather than swapping it for another T-16 engine. Best of luck with it anyway, hope to see it running dead on again
mattie007
29-04-18, 09:01 PM
Good luck Sam, been a few dramas with this car and the 180. We must really love ZS's!
Dan1971
29-04-18, 10:10 PM
Good on you giving it a go ... :bow:
Good luck Sam, been a few dramas with this car and the 180. We must really love ZS's!
I think, for me, I need to concentrate on one car :) - Buying the 6 allows me to do just that I hope :) - also means the 180 needs to be shifted really, which is a shame as it has a lot of nice parts on and a decent engine!
Good on you giving it a go ... :bow:
I've rebuilt (new pistons\liners etc) a K series engine or two before, so I am hoping there is nothing too alien to me when I pull the T series apart. In theory this should make it a very good, reliable engine. Then its paint and rust prevention.
Of course there is also the option to take parts from the 180 to upgrade the T16 as well... Rear Disks maybe? Front Fogs? Maybe a few other goodies....
Sounds like this one is keeping you on your toes as well - just as well you like spending the time on them :)
fingers crossed that the rebuild goes to plan and nothing else unexpected is thrown up!
Street Elite
30-04-18, 03:24 PM
Where in the UK? Passenger doors still in good condition?
Drew
Where in the UK? Passenger doors still in good condition?
Drew
The 180? Its sat in my unit down between Alton and Winchester... The doors were replaced with good ones, so yeah they might be odd colours (two are XPG and two are green) and two handles need the normal fix, but I don't think they are dented or anything.
Street Elite
30-04-18, 03:41 PM
I could use some new ones on my xpg. Car park scratch/dent through both doors!
Drew
stamford
30-04-18, 07:10 PM
I didn't realise it was that bad. I never touched the boost when I had it, left it as found. I will admit if I kept it myself I would have looked at a rebuild in the future with forged internals as that is what it needs with that spec. It is really on the edge.
there is no way anyone would have realised it was that bad till it happened.
I was going to do a rebuild at some point anyway, its just speed up my plans :)
So... a long time coming, life gets in the way... but I decided it really is time to get the car back on the road! (I didn't realise it had been quite so long actually!)
I have been collecting parts over the last year and, after moving house, now have a garage I can work in, rather than trying to do this on the drive at my previous house.
I started the strip down last weekend:
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Whilst there I found a troubling sight, the large black intake hose in this photo:
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Yeah that hose, it goes from the ITG enclosed filter, through the normal route, into the inner wing. But it was full (I mean full) of water!
So once the car is back together I need to work out a way to stop water getting to the induction system.
Realising that actually it is quite possible that all my non starting issues could simply be down to the lack of air getting past the water, I could have reassembled the lot and see if it started up. However I am this far now and I have all the parts... So I am going to continue with the rebuild.
First issue: Cambelt cover is held on by alen head bolts, so simply remove them all, top cover comes off easy, bottom cover has ONE 8mm bolt at the bottom left. I have two socket sets in my house and not a single 8mm socket!?!?!? How did that happen? Plenty of 7mm and 9mm but no 8mm.
No matter, I will get the other tools from the unit in the week. Lets move on to the sump and work my way through the bolts on that.
Second Issue: The sump is also held on by alen head bolts. I easily remove 6 of them, the 7th is a little harder than the others so apply a little more pressur....BANG. I snapped my tool leaving part of it in the bolt!
Right, thats enough for the day (this was last weekend) I will grab yet more tools from the unit and bring them back ready to work on the car over the bank holiday weekend! (Apparently going to be one of the hottest august bank holidays on record).
Anyway, thought you guys would like an update and to know the car is not dead, and is being fixed (finally!) :)
Because I have added my other cars to this thread before...
The MGF is back on the road, turns out the issues i had with that are because the altinator froze up and the resulting high load melted the cable between the altinator and the starter motor.
The MGF is currently white, with line drawings all over... but has gone back in the booth for a respray before a show next weekend!
The MG6 flywheel is dead, currently still being used as a workhorse, but it desperately needs changing (poor show at 40k miles IMO and costs over a grand to fix in parts alone apparently).
the RX8 is the reliable one!
The 180, is sitting at the unit waiting for me to find time to do the bodywork that is required!
stamford
23-08-19, 09:02 PM
Busy boy Sam! Have you moved again? Can’t keep up.
Busy boy Sam! Have you moved again? Can’t keep up.
Yeah we moved over to Bordon, closer to work for me and a bigger house, plus a garage which is a massive plus :)
Got the head off:
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and in the process noticed that the timing was massively out:
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Now I am stumped on the sump. It is held on by theses (imo stupid) hex bolts:
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And I have managed to snap two hex key tools inside two of the nuts (the rest undid really easy!).
Anyone have any idea, either how to get the rest of the tool out of the bolt, or how to remove the bolt without doing any damage to the sump or block?
LukeZS96
26-08-19, 04:07 PM
If the rest of the bolts came out easy and you have access to a small air grinder or can get access with a hacksaw possibly cut slots in the bolts and use a flathead screwdriver or even an impact driver with a flat head bit to remove the bolts?
Dan1971
26-08-19, 06:57 PM
The fix for that sort of thing I see in car shows, is to weld a bolt onto the difficult part, then undo the bolt.
No idea if that'd be any good for you though ...
I remembered I had a very obscure Nut extractor set, I purchased it years back for removing a locking wheel nut but it turned out it was not suitable, so I promptly "put it away" and forgot about it.
When I had remembered, then found it again I hammered the correct size on the bolt and used a normal socket to remove the bolt from the car :)
Anyway, got really far into the rebuild to find the pistons and rods are good, removed one piston and went to install the forged ones I have, to find they are 85mm pistons, not 84.45mm as were sold to me (84.45 is std size, in case anyone needed clarification). Upshot is they don't fit unless I re-bore!
cleaned the Mahle pistons up and refitted for now, then ran out of light so tidied up for the night!
So now I have a set of 85mm Wossner forged pistons on PEC rods, that I can't fit to my car... Will have to think of my next move over the next few days.
stamford
26-08-19, 09:41 PM
At a loss as to why hex socket head shoulder bolts have been used. They are hardened bolts and would need grinding. I would go for a rebore if possible.
talkingcars
28-08-19, 09:41 PM
Good to see progress.
The TF that donated it's subframes to my F came from near Bordon.
Street Elite
07-12-19, 11:36 AM
I don't think those bolts are std for the sump.
Drew - streetelite.co.uk
talkingcars
07-12-19, 07:23 PM
I don't think those bolts are std for the sump.
Drew - streetelite.co.uk
Defiantly not, the standard bolts are regular hex bolts.
Finally got the engine back together this weekend and topped up all fluids.
Car initially fired up with a very obvious missfire, turns out one of the HT leads was not pushed in firmly enough.
Once that was sorted the engine runs, but not as smooth as I would like... There is a very slight lumpiness to the engine and it seems to threaten to stall every now and then.
Since this appears to be the Mems 1.6 ECU (Dizzy engine from a 420 Turbo) I can't just put it on my normal Diagnostics.
To this end, does anyone, localish to Bordon, have a T4 or PScan or another Diagnostics that will connect to the Rover 3-pin plug on the ECU so I can check all the sensors etc? I am hoping that will tell me, or at least guide me, to the root of the "something is not quite right".
peterzs
02-03-20, 04:03 PM
well done for getting where you are at now.
hope it is just a sensor or bit of adjustment.
would a rolling road point you in the right direction???
found these https://www.bteautomotive.co.uk/DIAGNOSTICS don't know if they could help.
:):):)
talkingcars
02-03-20, 09:05 PM
I'd happily bring my pscan over but I don't have the MEMS 1.6 lead.
PScan... Are they still going? It might be worth an investment in few weeks time (or maybe after I get back from the Netherlands!)
Main problem I have with the car now is I can't take it to anywhere as its got no MOT (and I don't want to cause any damage!), hence looking for someone to hopefully pop over and plug in a reader :)
Anyone had any luck with https://memsdiag.blogspot.com/ ?
talkingcars
04-03-20, 09:04 PM
Anyone had any luck with https://memsdiag.blogspot.com/ ?
That's for MEMS 1.6 or 1.9 as found on early 4 pot K series, the KV6 uses a Seimans 2000.
www.pscan.uk is still in development and production and Philip is active on www.the-t-bar.com where we host his forum.
That's for MEMS 1.6 or 1.9 as found on early 4 pot K series, the KV6 uses a Seimans 2000.
www.pscan.uk is still in development and production and Philip is active on www.the-t-bar.com where we host his forum.
Luckily this particular engine is a 4 pot T series with a turbo and a mems 1.6 ECU ;)
The KV6 needs a new air filter(the itg maxogen filter element has litterally fallen apart and is now dust!!) and a damn good service, but that's after its had the bodywork repaired :)
I have ordered the three pin circular cable now, will update when it arrives.
In the mean time the rear of the passenger front wheel arch, under the door where the arch and the sill meet (sorry don't know the actual name) is rotten and has a hole in it. Can I repair this easily? Or does it need someone with a welder? Is it an MOT failure?
stamford
06-03-20, 04:33 PM
Is the hole in the wing section or the sill? If sill yes a failure. If wing then no it shouldn’t be.
Is the hole in the wing section or the sill? If sill yes a failure. If wing then no it shouldn’t be.
Sill unfortunately.
Any idea how easy that area is to fix? I.e. can any mechanic weld it up or does it require a new sill or whatever?
stamford
07-03-20, 09:17 AM
Hard to say without seeing it.
peterzs
07-03-20, 02:25 PM
mobile welder should be able to patch weld it for its MOT.
should not cost too much, just get a couple of quotes.
Good luck with it, get them to check both front jacking points, if you do get them in to give a quote.
:):):)
stamford
08-03-20, 04:49 PM
I need both of my jacking points plus surrounding areas plating with new steel. Not an easy job lying underneath.
Sam, when you can post a photo of the area that needs repairing.
I need both of my jacking points plus surrounding areas plating with new steel. Not an easy job lying underneath.
Sam, when you can post a photo of the area that needs repairing.
Ok will do, I will try to get out to it after work.
Thanks :)
Sorry for the really long time with no updates! But a year later and....
She's booked in with a local company to get the underside welded up! :trampoline: - Am looking forward to getting T16 back on the road, once welded up there are a few odds and sods (new hoses etc) and then in for an MOT.
With any luck this time next month will be a really positive post :trampoline::trampoline:
Dan1971
19-04-21, 07:24 PM
Good news...
stamford
19-04-21, 08:17 PM
Was going to say..........where’s that photo? :laugh:
peterzs
20-04-21, 05:32 PM
Good Luck, will be worth it when it is all done.
:bow::bow::bow:
They asked me to strip the interior out (to stop it catching fire!) before it gets welded next week...
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The underside of the carpet was sopping wet and as you can see there is quite a bit of surface rust as well... So will have to sort that when the car is returned back to me!
If anyone happens to know where the likely ingress points for water is, I would be grateful... I am currently thinking the heated windscreen might have a dodgy seal or something like that, although could also quite easy be the normal hole to the interior fan that leaks on most ZS's!
Oh and I know that the seatbelt mounting is rusty, so will replace all the seatbelts when it is back as well.
stamford
08-05-21, 09:44 AM
Could be the screen. Part of it wasn’t working so might pay to get it removed, check the wiring and get it re-bonded. Check grommets behind the fuse box and bulkhead area in general whilst it is stripped.
peterzs
08-05-21, 11:23 AM
not as bad as I thought it might be, good luck with it.
Update from the welder... Photos below :) (Car will be back with me this afternoon!)
peterzs
12-05-21, 12:05 PM
think all our cars are heading this way.
just wanting to save them, will keep them out of the scrap yards. You just do not see any ZS about, even the ZR's are getting rare.
well done for keeping the love.
Dan1971
12-05-21, 04:59 PM
Looks sorted to me...
stamford
12-05-21, 09:49 PM
Looks to be good work there Sam.
Spent a lot of time this weekend flaring brake pipes, I've cut off the section that is leaking and put a join in the existing pipe.
However I have since been told I shouldn't have flared the OE pipe as it is steel and wouldn't have made a good flare, so will leak. However even stamping on the pedal there is no leak I can see at all....
Am I risking a leak with this? Should I look to replace the whole line (which means dropping the fuel tank!)
Anyway, both rear brakes (drums still!) are now braided and will get to the fronts when the weather clears up a bit.
Whilst doing the front lines I will clean up the suspension a bit, and then its time to book it into an MOT :)
peterzs
21-06-21, 11:02 AM
don't they usually use copper pipe for the brake lines??
Not worth skimping on brakes, one thing I always keep up to spec.
Good luck with it.
:bow::bow::bow:
don't they usually use copper pipe for the brake lines??
Not worth skimping on brakes, one thing I always keep up to spec.
Good luck with it.
:bow::bow::bow:
To be fair, some manufacturers (MGRover by the looks) give you steel lines from the factory. I have replaced a couple of sections with copper though.
stamford
21-06-21, 03:56 PM
My lines are steel. Still in good condition. If you’ve managed to flare it and it seals then you should be okay. The copper section you have added will squash to the steel flare and seal when tightened.
peterzs
22-06-21, 02:24 PM
the TF on its last MOT has advisories on a couple of brake pipe runs, front to back, that I need to get sorted.
Always something to do.
My lines are steel. Still in good condition. If you’ve managed to flare it and it seals then you should be okay. The copper section you have added will squash to the steel flare and seal when tightened.
Its the Offside Rear that was a problem, it had worn through at the final bracket that holds the steel line into place. - Seems fine now though :)
the TF on its last MOT has advisories on a couple of brake pipe runs, front to back, that I need to get sorted.
Always something to do.
Couple of weeks ago I stripped out the offside rear pipe (from the T piece to the wheel) and used it as a pattern for a complete new run of brake pipe for the MGF. Wasn't too bad a job to be honest, but that T piece can be a pain if its rusted up!
peterzs
23-06-21, 10:33 AM
Its the Offside Rear that was a problem, it had worn through at the final bracket that holds the steel line into place. - Seems fine now though :)
Couple of weeks ago I stripped out the offside rear pipe (from the T piece to the wheel) and used it as a pattern for a complete new run of brake pipe for the MGF. Wasn't too bad a job to be honest, but that T piece can be a pain if its rusted up!
I saw a T piece behind the engine when it was out, just after I bought the car and thought it would be better changed as it looked rusty. Like most thing I forgot and it went back as it was.
Have to see what pipes need doing, and then start worrying.
talkingcars
26-06-21, 05:29 PM
When I changed the subframes on my MGF I changed the front to rear brake pipe and the 2 that go to the rear wheels. I had to re-flair one on the car when a bolt on the suspension came out (I thought the hole was threaded) and the arm crushed the pipe, strange thing is that it went through the MOT with the arm loose.
I also swapped the clutch line for a front to back one in with a braided hose supplied for the Lotus Elise.
So... after all that work, 2 miles from the MOT station the engine decided that C4 rod should exit out the side of the block... and shower everyone behind me with engine components (it was running sweet as before hand with no issues or warning this was going to happen!)
Anyway... I refuse to let the ZS die, so I have now ended up with another Hatch T16 that needs a bit of work (although good engine etc) and plans are to make one really good car out of the two :)
stamford
13-08-21, 10:45 PM
Gutted for you Sam. Hate hearing such shitty news. Hope you get some luck from now on.
Gutted for you Sam. Hate hearing such shitty news. Hope you get some luck from now on.
It is what it is... It's more annoying as we are still waiting for an exchange date on our house! Once that's complete I will have more time and space to fix the cars :)
stamford
14-08-21, 07:35 PM
I’ve lost track where you are Sam!
Currently still in Bordon... But been trying to buy a house since December!
peterzs
14-08-21, 09:25 PM
good luck Sam, not easy just now.
Something will turn up.
stamford
15-08-21, 03:49 PM
Hope it works out Sam. Can’t beat stability.
good luck Sam, not easy just now.
Something will turn up.
I've found a house Peter ;)
But, between them loosing the deeds and the solicitors taking an absolute age to do anything, its taken 8 months and counting so far to get to "pre-exchange" stage... Whatever that means, I just want in the house!
Oh house is probate, so noone living in it, and we are renting, so literally just me in the chain!
peterzs
18-08-21, 08:34 AM
sounds like must bite the bullet and wait for it all to come together.
Wonder if you could ask them to reduce the price by the amount you have had to spend out on the rental. Can only say no, but the delay was not on your side.
Every little helps as they say!!
Good luck, don't forget the longer it takes the more the solicitors will charge, so in their interests to keep dragging it out!!
Dan1971
18-08-21, 10:02 AM
Pre-exchange is just the solicitors etc having completed all their searches and checks on title to a point where both parties are prepared to take it forward.
Doing the hpi, mot and service history checks before you arrange for collection I guess in our speak.
What about renting it from them until you exchange, and deducting the rent paid from the purchase price?
Sorry to hear about the car and the house hassle.
I don't think the house can be rented while it is probate - as the estate owns the property and until probate is granted no-one can "do anything" with it from a legal standpoint.
I had a 4 month wait for probate when I moved at the end of 2019/start of 2020 - but that also depends on whether the executors submit the request to the court as well.
Hope it all gets sorted soon enough!
Apologies for the delay in updating... But here we go :)
MGF has gone to a new home (Down your way actually Peter!) back in Sept last year.
House went through and we moved in Sept last year, but it took BT 6 months to get crappy Broadband to the house (was living on even worse 3G for work etc). Finally got Starlink installed and used that since.
Started work on the car, but it was slow as doing in on weekends and around work and family. Then a couple of months ago decided that it was about time (almost 10 years) we got married, so booked that in for August this year.
This means that I need to get a few projects sorted before then for the space, and since the T16 was basically two cars on my drive, I have given them to a local mechanic to put the new engine in and tidy it all up (then MOT it).
Will update further when I have news of the car :)
(Still got the Pontiac Firebird, need to do some work on that at some point too!)
peterzs
22-05-22, 05:34 PM
Congratulations for August, hope you can use the T16 as the wedding car.
Good to know it is all coming together at last.
:group::group::group::group: :bow::bow::bow:
stamford
22-05-22, 09:35 PM
You’ll have yours done before me! All sounds good Sam. Good to hear life is good for you.
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