No need for stands mate, everything is gettable from the top.

One thing I will say is the pedal part is bloody hard work, must have hit my head on the steering wheel about 10 times and smashed my elbow on the end of the seat runner once.

Also don't take the instructions to the letter, the easiest thing to do is fit the slave with the flexi hose attached and feed that back to where the master is located then fit the master and attach to the firewall. They want you to feed the master round the back of the engine.

Also where the little resivior is attached the natural angle of the tube makes it kink so I cable tied it in the middle of the tube to one of the set of wires with the plastic casing round it.

All in all it took me about 3 hours including a cup of tea and double checking the instructions. Reckon I could do it in under an hour if doing again.

any pics cos i need to do this on my zed at some point

Seriously Andy you don't need pics mate, I had no idea what I was doing to start with, just followed the instructions and it all works.

Ah ok, thats a relief. Never like being under a car on axle stands. Cheers for the advice guys.

There's some pics up on a thread on .org here.

Interesting reading this.

I've also fitted one of these, but not with much success. The instructions were awful I thought, I couldn't bleed any air from the system due to the limited stroke on the master cylinder, even with adjusting the clevis pin to the clutch pedal to get the maximum stroke and removing the pedal stop.

What I ended up doing was removing the clutch pedal, drilling another 10mm hole in front of the existing hole (for the OEM master cylinder clevis pin) and fitting the DID master cylinder and pushrod into this new 10mm hole. This was to get the maximum stroke on the master cylinder so I could actually purge air and fluid through the master cylinder and out through the bleed nipple at the slave cylinder.

Once the system was bled, I then removed the clevis pin from the 10mm hole that I had drilled myself, put the clevis pin back into the original hole on the clutch pedal and the car was then usable. The pedal stop is just some s**t piece of bracket that doesn't fit very well with a few washers, bolt and nyloc nut.

Needless to say there was some foul language made on that memorable day, especially for a kit that cost £200. I wish Sheddist was still making them, or failing that made my own.

so is this kit not that good,are you better off with the sheddist kit?

I had the Sheddist kit on my XPG 180 that I've just sold. It was simple to fit, clear instructions and worked well. If I remember there was also a choice of two clevis pins to alter the stroke on the master cylinder - (I think).

Don't mean to come across a bit biased about the DID kit, but I'd rather have Nigels kit any day. You generally don't need instructions, but for a newbie (which I'm not) to have them written clearly is a must, and they wasn't. Even the website link that DID gave me for the instructions was wrong!

You shouldn't have to mess about with removing pedals and drilling holes like I did, the impression that I got was that I was just sent a "bag of bits". I still need to adjust the bite point of the clutch, I can't imagine how complicated this is going to be!

I'm certain that the problem is within the master cylinder stroke, I can't be certain, but it feels too limited, and as I said trying to bleed the system, even with the clevis pin fully adjusted to give the maximum stroke is impossible - hence why I drilled another hole in the clutch pedal-arm to give the maximum master cylinder stroke - if that makes sense?

Their other products as far as I'm concerned are excellent, the strut brace fits perfectly and the quick shift kit is very well made as well.

You must have done something wrong then? I'm a complete novice and got it all fit properly just using their instructions. Yes I agree they are a bit rubbish and don't go into enough detail, for example when bleeding the clutch to push down slowly on the pedal unlike my missus who just pushed it as you normally would when changing the gear. Also to fill the reservoir and replace the soft rubber bit AND the screw cap. Think I still have a bit of air in the system so am going to rebleed it and bring the biting point down a touch as its quite high.

All in all I think the only difference between this and the real sheddist is the flexi hose instead of the copper piping.

Nigel is still making his kit.

A useful tip for bleeding is to vacuum bleed before you fit the slave cylinder, this allows you raise the slave cylinder to the top of the system.

I did struggle to bleed the system, to the point of it being impossible. I've fitted these before, two of Nigels kits and had absolutely no problem. It's not difficult to work out and am convinced that I fitted it correctly.

I may of course have something different at the pedal end to other ZS's maybe? I don't know. Although by drilling that extra hole in the pedal and attaching the clevis pin to it, and therefore lengthening the stroke of the master cylinder which in turn bled the system straight away, tells me that the stroke on the master cylinder is just not long enough (if using the existing hole in the pedal). Even with the clevis pin wound to the end of its travel on the pushrod, I couldn't get any fluid or air out.

A vacuum bleeder is a good example, I have never used one but have seen them advertised.