Looking good and coming along well there!

Cheers bud.

Fancy doing mine after? Seriously tho great work, good to see someone looking After their car properly 👍

Thanks,

Should all help to keep the car rust free for a good while !

Jay.

Just a quick one.

Picked my calipers up from the powder coaters yesterday, very happy with them. I got them put back together today with a couple of rebuild kits I bought. Here they are -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psoeqj8bps.jpg

And back together again, painted up the heads of the slider pins too -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psxwqwlozz.jpg

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psojgo2lut.jpg

Also went down to the garage today and fitted a few more brackets back onto the car, nothing worth taking a picture of though. I've fished out a few more brackets I missed taking down to the coaters last time and I've also removed the Dark Ice rear strut brace so it can be done along with the front brace. Will take these down on Monday.

Probably won't be doing too much over Christmas as funds are needed else where, but we shall see !

Jay.

Will be a shame to get it dirty after that much work! I could easily go that far with my blue mk1 but fear it would never see the road again as I don't have alot of time these days and every job just takes so long to get going.

She'll certainly be used Mick, don't you worry lol. No point in doing all this work if your not going to enjoy the end result !

Know how you feel, what I thought would be an hour job putting the calipers back together today took four. Had to get creative with removing the excess powder coat from the slider pin holes in the carrier as they wouldn't go in.

I usually try to keep Sundays free to play with the cars but like you say, sometimes you can't always make the time !

Yea my weekends are spent playing catch up on other things which have a higher priority so I am told! As an engineer I have the tools at hand for such jobs, reamers for cleaning the slider pin holes out. The short days and nonexistent light evenings at this time of year stop my progress, wish it was 6 months later!

Nice. They will look very good behind some graphite or black alloys.

Excellent work. That will be a longer survivor for all your efforts.

Yes, roll on summer time. Early starts, warm days and light evenings, can't beat it. Reamers would have been very handy yesterday, must invest in a set !

Cheers Dan,

Yep, should look mean behind the black alloys.

Thanks,

I hope so !

Any chance you can post up pics of what treatments you are using? Be interested for my little winter project. I bought some good quality rust renovator. The zinc coat I'm after.

No problem.

I usually have a set routine when it comes to rust removal/treatment.

Firstly, I'll completely remove any underseal or top coat from the area I'm working with. This is the only way to get the full picture of how bad any given area is.

I use a knotted wire wheel on my angle grinder as it makes light work of removing factory underseal and paint. Here's a link to what I use - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100mm-4-TW...-/262727252383.

Smaller knotted wheels can also be purchased for use in a drill for tighter areas.

Always try to purchase a crimped wire wheel as the un-crimped wheels have a nasty habit of disintegrating mid-use when they have worn down. Make sure to always wear eye protection too, these are no joke, especially the angle grinder wheel.

The area should look something like this after the initial wire brushing -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psacj9w2pa.jpg

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psdvcg5arr.jpg

Here's an example of how efficient factory/aftermarket underseal can be at hiding rust and corrosion. What looks to be a reasonably sound area is quite the opposite once the underseal has been removed. This is an XPG ZS I used to own -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...pskxzucr3b.jpg

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...pssvmvd9mn.jpg

And upon removal of said underseal -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...pswu4nedjc.jpg

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psv3gzo9gi.jpg

In this case welding/panel replacement was required.

If I have any rusty/pitted areas I like to use rust removers, not converters. I've tried many different converters in the past and they just don't cut it in my opinion. The only way to effectively deal with rust is to remove it, all your doing with a converter is delaying the inevitable.

A good rust remover is Bilt Hambers Deox Gel. You simply brush it on to the rusty area, cover it with some cling film so it doesn't dry out, and leave it for a period of time whilst agitating it with a wire brush every few hours or so. I usually like to leave it on for 24 hours depending on the severity of the rust.

This is the product -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psu1q4muhl.jpg

Here's a link to some on eBay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bilt-Hambe...4AAOSw1KxXNZkY

And in action -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps420ceb01.jpg

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps996c336b.jpg

When it gets to the above stage you simply wash off the brown/green sludge with some clean water, and then you should be left with a rust free surface on which you can paint -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psa1be95bb.jpg

After this is done I like to use Zinc Rich Primer.

Zinc primer has great anti corrosion properties and is also not as porous as regular primer, meaning i can leave something in the primer stage for longer without rust creeping back in. Rust would usually start to form fairly quickly if I were to use regular/acid etch primers for example, as these primers are very porous.

Another benefit of Zinc primer is it will sacrifice its self for minor rust on the metal, essentially killing it off.

Here's a link to the Zinc Primer I use- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Zinc-Spray...cAAMXQVERSwzdT

Its cheaper to buy this primer in bulk.

Heres the under arch of my current ZS Zinc Primed -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...pszniv18tj.jpg

I usually apply 2-3 coats.

After that's done I like to use a good quality stone chip/underseal. I use UPOL Gravigard in Aerosol form as it's reasonably priced and gives excellent long term protection.

Here's a link - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U-Pol-Grav...gAAOSwDk5T7JzG

You can also buy its sister product UPOL Gravtex for use in an air powered spray gun.

Again, it's much cheaper to buy this stuff in bulk.

I can't stress enough that this has to be layed down in VERY thin coats with sufficient time to dry in between coats. Try to put too much on too quickly and you'll end up with a mess on the floor. Practice makes perfect when it comes to applying the underseal, it's not a job to be rushed. It does say ready to be over painted in 3-4 hours but I'd recommend you leave it for 24 hours to fully cure.

Here's the underarch of the XPG ZS after 2-3 coats of Gravigard -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psfbjtossj.jpg

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6qtfwoqf.jpg

That's the main bulk of the rust protection completed. After this I like to apply some correct coloured top coat and some anti corrosion wax to ensure the longevity of the rust protection.

I use Bilt Hambers Dynax UC Wax, it's excellent stuff and easily the best I've used thus far.

Here's a link to the product - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bilt-Hambe...wAAOxygLxSVRxt

For the box sections and cavitys I use Bilt Hambers S-50. Here's a link to some on eBay - http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bilt-Hamber-...%257Ciid%253A1

I've learnt that less is more regarding the S-50. After entering the lance into the box section, a smooth even movement will produce a nice thin coat which will then seap into any seams. Apply too much into a box section and you'll just serve to block up drain holes which will cause more issues in the future.

Thats just common sense your probably thinking, but you'd be surprised at how many people I've seen absolutely cake the inside of their cills in wax and then complain that the wax doesn't work when they've had to have cill's replaced later down the line.

Finally, here's a couple of shots of the finished underarch on the XPG ZS with the top coat and wax applied -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps2knjo8c4.jpg

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psybgmlqhz.jpg

Jay.

Looks well sorted.

Thanks for putting it up.

Have to have a go at my one and sort out the jacking points.

:):):)

Brilliant guide to the process that .nice one .will have to refer to that area times over the winter metinhks.same as you Peter around the jacking points are an issue on my 180.

No problem, happy to help !

Really good guide that - It might be worth taking it out this post and popping it into a separate one just for faster ease of access?

Cheers,

I may well put it up in a separate thread if people think it'll be helpful.

Jay.

Agree with that.

Brilliant job there. Thanks for all the help with the links to the products used. A big help for me.

Another quick one.

Had a free day today so decided to get the damper & spring assembly's built up.

But first, got a few bits back from the powder coaters & picked up a replacement passenger door handle as mines broke -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psbanfuav6.jpg

Not best pleased with the door handle though, it's been broken and then bodged with some resin type material in the past -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psgdeamuhx.jpg

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psr7cah4u5.jpg

Wouldn't have minded but none of this was mentioned when I bought it. Never mind, will just repair my own to a better standard and use this as a spare I suppose.

Bought some stainless braided hoses from Wezmoto -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...pswhcdm52n.jpg

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...pssu3kjevy.jpg

Very impressed with these, look a proper bit of kit.

Family decided they wanted to get me the Moto-Build springs as an early birthday present as it's at the end of this month, here they are -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...pscmpjkfh6.jpg

That's all the purchased bits, now onto today's progress. Needed to get the dampers refurbished, so wire brushed them back to bare metal -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psgcsx3kmo.jpg

Zinc Primed -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psodeuc2rv.jpg

And painted satin black -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...pserorbk4m.jpg

Left those to dry for a few hours and then built them up -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psyjf0ni94.jpg

Just the hubs to sort with new bearings, ball joints and some paint and then she'll be rolling again !

Jay.

Thanks,

No problem !

Some more done today.

I ordered some new top suspension arms as mine were well past it -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psknvzef1b.jpg

I decided to give them a proper coat of paint as the e-coat they come in is rubbish.

Sanded down -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...pslqtwnflq.jpg

Primed -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psjdymyyan.jpg

And painted -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps6hjbunbt.jpg

Repeated for the passenger side and then put back together -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...pshbpiin4n.jpg

Happy with that, I went down to my garage and got those fitted along with the spring and damper assemblies.

N/S -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psseewvdfh.jpg

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psryqsd8yn.jpg

O/S, I also fitted the steering rack pipes back onto the car -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...pskc4ga2yr.jpg

Going to find a garage to press the old bearing and ball joints out tomorrow, then I can get the hubs painted up.

Jay.

Thanks for all the info on products used and the links. I won't make a start until around March I guess.

I love this, so much effort goes into it, done it myself over the years but looks like you really are doing it properly

No problem, happy to help !

Thanks bud !

Looking very good indeed. Will be stunning when completed.

Best colour, very nice.
Get a set of Civic door handles, they never break.

Good work mate brings back bad memory's of doing the ZR, the amount of time it takes is unreal

Cheers Mick.

Thanks.

Yep, my favourite MG/R colour !

Your not the first to mention the civic handles to me. I think there's a civic at my local breakers yard so i may whip the handles off next time I'm down there.

Cheers.

Yeh it's extremely time consuming but worth the end results !

This is a great thread. Giving me plentey of motivation to get mine started, just have to get the funds up first.

Cheers,

Glad it motivates you !

Been back at it today.

I took the hubs down to a garage on Friday and had them push the old bearing's and ball joints out. £20 all in which I thought was reasonable. Will be the same again to put the new ones in.

Here are the bare hubs -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...pssdsbu6og.jpg

Degreased, wire brushed and then primed -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...pste20hqmn.jpg

And painted satin black -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps7hcrnmat.jpg

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psxbohas8f.jpg

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psscyh81vs.jpg

Ive ordered all the new bits I need to get those rebuilt so they'll be here by the weekend hopefully.

The engine's been sitting on a pallet since I removed it from the car but I've also made a start on that today too. Here it is -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psnu1twnjp.jpg

Various bits removed ready to be refurbished -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psqg5laeqy.jpg

Drive shafts have been marked up so they go back together as they came apart.

As the engine stands now, belts exposed ready to be changed -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psw7xkhavg.jpg

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psfxyzvuib.jpg

The guy I bought the car from said the belts had been changed pretty recently and upon closer inspection this appears to be true as they are aftermarket belts. Although they look in good condition it would be unthinkable not to change them and all the other serviceable items whilst I have the engine in this state.

Should be nice and easy to change the belts now it's out too.

There's still a lot more that I want to take off and refurb and the engine needs a damn good degreasing too, but won't be touching this again now until the cars rolling.

Jay.

Awesome progress mate :)

Bit of a milestone reached today, she's back on all four wheels for the first time in almost four months ! Won't be for long though as I'm going to make a start on the rear tomorrow.

Anyway, here's a few pictures of the process. New bearings and ball joints -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psebyt4jgr.jpg

Took them down to my local garage and had those pressed into the hubs -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psntlahfij.jpg

N/S fitted back to the car -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psactdtcvu.jpg

Same for the O/S -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psugipvjlq.jpg

Popped the wheels and discs back on and rolled her outside into the daylight -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...pstzrufjcp.jpg

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psydhovslv.jpg

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...pshzfpdjru.jpg

I knocked the knackered outer CV joints off the drive shafts and have pushed those into the drive flanges and nipped up the hub nuts just to keep the bearings together whilst I rolled her about.

Surprising just how little these cars weigh without the engine in. Really noticed it when I tried the wing on, sitting like a monster truck at the front even on the Moto-Build springs.

I had a tidy up/organise of the parts that were lying around, a good sweep round with the broom and then turned her around and pushed her back in ready for me to make a start tomorrow -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...ps80mgybip.jpg

Finally, I purchased this little VIS tester machine from a guy over on the ZT & ZTT Owners Club page on Facebook -

http://i854.photobucket.com/albums/a...psrnnv5wcy.jpg

Can't say I'm a Hugh fan of the MG Facebook pages for various reasons but it does pay to have a scroll through it from time to time.

I'm seriously impressed with this, it's good to know there are people out there in the MG/Rover scene making things like this to such a good quality for our cars.

I've tested both my VIS motors today and both are dead unfortunately, can I get these refurbished or will I have to replace with new ones ?

Jay.

Proper Job.


Dont know if Discounted MG spares do them, might be woth contacting them https://www.themgzs.co.uk/vb/showthread.php?t=25197

Most guys have tried to refurb the vis motors and as you are clearly a "do it myself" guy, I'm sure you'll manage.

They come up new from time to time, but not often.

Beautiful work Jay, I believe there is a guide here or possibly on xpf on how to refurb vis motors. As Dan says, sure you will manage to resurrect them if possible. Usually soldering or motors inside that's go.

Cheers bud.

Cheers guys,

Been browsing the net and found a really good guide on YouTube on how to repair the VIS Motors.

Link - https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=_4NNxnxKugI

Looks like it's a case of oil ingression that ultimately kills them. Simple strip down, clean up of connectors and a bit of fresh solder should see them working again. Will have a crack at this over the next few weeks.

Had a look on dmgrs and found they sell both motors new for £130. Will try and repair mine but if it all goes tits up I may have to bite the bullet :hmm:.

Unfortunately our Pete was the one who would refurb the vis motors for us. I have done them a few times. Normally a bad motor or dry joints on the v3 switches is the cause. soldering iron, solder sucker and an eye glass would suffice.