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-   -   Stamford’s ZS180 (https://www.themgzs.co.uk/vb/showthread.php?t=25692)

stamford 04-05-19 09:00 PM

Poly windows here, look good, will fit them last I think. Attacked the rear arch mods with a grinder today, wasn’t happy with the positioning. Will look better when I can get the skirts in place. Bought a big argon mix mig bottle for my welder, had enough of the crap welds using gasless wire, not cheap but the welds are more like what I used to do. Once I get back in that groove again I may tackle the roll cage. Be like the old days when I was building oval hot rods.

peterzs 05-05-19 01:16 PM

save a few bob if you can weld it all

:):):)

Dan1971 05-05-19 01:32 PM

Ah welding ....

The magic that makes metal stick together ....

p_b82 07-05-19 11:12 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stamford (Post 379372)
Rears were refurbed a few years ago with EBC pads. Already have Brembo GT2s on Reyland mounts, DS2500 pads and 326mm discs, braking is good! However they all need stripping, cleaning and lube.

Ah - I wasn't sure if you'd changed the rears to something else.

I found the DS2500's stop nice and predictably, but don't have quite the same bite the DS3000's did - once you've got some heat into the disks anyway!

However on heavy braking with 3000's on the front, and something standard spec on the rear, the balance was off; got very squirrely on heavy braking.

That and I was always worried when they were hot that some-one would not stop in time behind me!

stamford 27-05-19 05:25 PM

Brakes stripped all four corners, check over, clean, grease, paint. May need to take the discs into work and give them a skim, hope there’s enough throw on the lathe! Took a look at the underside, jacking points are bad. Still feels solid, will try some rust prevention on it first, any recommendations?

peterzs 27-05-19 08:21 PM

I got an advisory on jacking points 2 years ago, rusty.

I cleaned the areas up with a rust killer and then painted on POR15

This year it got through OK.The paint is good and stops the rust coming back. You do need PPE specially gloves as it takes a couple of weeks to get it off, once on.

https://www.frost.co.uk/how-do-i-use...eventive-paint

David Sayer 02-06-19 11:57 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by stamford (Post 379378)
Poly windows here, look good, will fit them last I think.

. Do you have any pictures of these? Can they fix on the original winder/ electric mechanism and would they supply the fronts without the opening hatch. I'm all for weight saving but likes stealth look.

stamford 02-06-19 04:00 PM

Mine are still wrapped up, but the glass is the same shape so you could bond and or screw them to the lift mechanism. However bear in mind that this will scratch the panel in time. It’s not designed to be moved. You can specify the panel with no vents or openings.

David Sayer 03-06-19 03:02 PM

Ok thanks, i will just get the rears then. Are you the guy I bought two seat runners off at POL?

stamford 03-06-19 07:57 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by David Sayer (Post 379484)
Ok thanks, i will just get the rears then. Are you the guy I bought two seat runners off at POL?

Small world, yes it was! :)


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