This should happen!

Is there enough space though and is it feasible?

Nope it wont sound like a zs but the zetec is no different to the 20vt vag engine. It just has so much potential.

....or a T5 Volvo engine from a ST/RS.

Not enough room in my driveway, my MGF only just fits if I park it parallel to the road.

I'd go with a t5 engine from a t5, ford messed about with st liners and they're not that strong. (rs should be cool tho)

I meant room in the engine bay of a ZS for a 260 V8?!

You can make anything fit! That conversion is a wish list item for me :D A lot of work but what a project. If I had a garage big enough I would do that. I've fitted a V8 into a Chevette and a Bedford CF before now so not fazed by such work.

A V8 into a zs is a good idea, but not the v8 out of a 260.

No I wouldn't be fazed either. It is just the space needed for a project of that size.

Any conversion takes up space, but reckon the V8 into the ZS being a bigger job as it'll need to be converted to RWD. If I was going to do such a conversion then a different engine would be looked at, the ZT (Ford) V8 being a little lazy and poor on output from stock. Only a job to do if you had nothing better to spend your money on! Still would be good to see other engine configurations to replace the KV6 and release the power it should have had but still retaining a nice soundtrack.

Is there enough space for a V8 and RWD? - (RWD is something I've looked into before and if I had the money would consider trying...)

I reckon so, but it would end up sat well back in the engine bay I think.

Lancia managed to shoehorn a 32 valve Ferrari V8 into a Thema shell to create the 8.32. (fwd)

http://budd.bundy.free.fr/les%20vrai...ur%20thema.jpg

RWD will need a transmission tunnel fabricating/opened up plus the rear axle/suspension clearance and mountings. The fuel tank my require thinking about as not sure if this is in the propshaft route. The exhaust will need re-routing as the centre section uses what little tunnel there is. Quite where this goes without being there to be ripped off is another matter. It'll be a big bore too. One project I wouldn't mind tackling, just need to build an extension to the already tiny garage!

or buy a 260 ZT!!!

:smile1::smile1::smile1:

all been done, the R1 drift car is proof of concept

But not as an everyday road car.

go on you know you wont to


mmmmmmmmmmmmm

Not wide enough at the back that.

Just way to pricey compared to what us available if you want rwd.
You only have to look at Ross's charged m3 or wander over the drift sites to see what can be picked up for the price of a decent v8 engine.

P.

Gonna have to upstate the rebuild soon, its moved on a hell of a lot since last time !

Ok on me hols in sunny Spain, we got wifi so thought I would try a little update before we head out for foods :-)

Cage updates:
Attachment 4935Attachment 4936Attachment 4937Attachment 4938Attachment 4939Attachment 4940

Intention was and is to build a chassis to take a much more powerful motor, so I have been carrying out a few major mods to the cage.

Ummm gonna have to do this in stages! Bloody tapatalk grrr

Attachment 4941Attachment 4942Attachment 4943Attachment 4944

The cage is now picking up the suspension / a pillar / b pillar / screen areas / across dash and behind the front seat. It's been triangulated from the b- pillars back to the rear suspension.
Once the rear has been stitch welded I can at last start re spraying the inside / engine bay.

The Avo suspension has been removed and sold, it was just way to soft for what I want and have planned for the car.
I have some new skunk pro c coilover's that were available so they were snapped up. These are much more in line with plan, fully adjustable from the top! And running much heavier spring rates 10k/8k. Although still a little softer than I planned but with all the chassis mods I was airing on caution as ATM I will still have to drive the car to the track.

Brakes will be 6 pots on huge discs as supplied from the creator aka mr reyland and apparently will stop the car with ease no matter what engine I fit :-)

All the abs system has been removed and is being replaced with manual control valves for the bias.

Still no sign of the btcc bodywork but its not like I need it ATM.

I have all the suspension stripped and ready for powder coating. Once painted they will be re assembled with poly bushes.

Still can't decide about the race dash or just strip the ***** out of the uber heavy stock unit and get that flocked? Ummm

Bloody doors weigh a tonne but I have a plan, just depends if it works out! If I can at least replace the front doors with fibre glass units then I reckon its more than achievable to get the scales close to 900kg mark and that with the new spec mk1 motor should make the thing fly!

Mk2 motor is now sitting in the shed but that's for another day hehe :-))

what are you doing for rear brakes?

I don't know much about the mk1 dash, but the mk2 dash can be stripped right down to little more than the bare shell leaving the centre fix point and the sides, if you are putting race seats in - that usually sit lower, then its worth lowering the dash an inch or two so you can see over the clocks!
I did weigh a stripped one but I have forgotten how much it weighs, obviously not as light as a fibreglass copy - which is always an idea, but light enough not to be concerned too much about what it does weigh. (2.6kg is in my mind, but just a guess)

10 - 8's should be a good start point.

A real gain is sorting out the roll centre on the front, this will allow you to lower the car whilst maintaining correct scrub radius & contact pressure patch on the tyres.
This is what evrey one overlooks when they drop the car believing low cog is the answer then wonder why they are no quicker - just feels quicker 'cause their lower to the ground.

The kinematics need to work, and when they do, a simple change in tyre pressure will be noticeable.

when you say about sorting out the roll center is it an easy job to sort with easy to aquire pieces? or is it a case of really really knowing what you are doing (obviously this helps a huge amount with supseension geometry) and adjusting it because you understand how to.

I've just started reading into all this suspension jiggery pokery and its massively detailed and so far seems very easy to get wrong and ruin everything.

Hi mark,

Rears are just ebc race discs with matching pads / braided lines ATM. It's setup with bias control valve so should be able to tweek it. I may look at a rear upgrade if needed but not ATM.

It has full track / race uber light seats with a stack dash so will set everything inc dash to a comfortable heights.
Just thinking a stripped down mk1 dash may give it a little more original look ??

The suspension is fully adjustable ie camber/castor/toe/arbs/ ride height so I should be able to play with the setup once I get a feel for the car. Coming from 2 wheels its going to be a learning curve but its easier to adjust a bike than a car without all the gear. Looks like it will be a few hrs on a setup rig winding up and down the adjusters whilst making some markers some I can adjust it myself after that.

P.

suspension geometry is very complex on these cars, the rear is dynamic - dynamic castor and toe, the front is a more straight forward double wishbone setup.

It is best left to people who really understand how to set these up, it is a great basis for a race car, very honda but the benefit of a longer wheelbase.

The roll centres are a well guarded secret, one I do not know myself, but if I did - as it is someone else's work, I wouldn't reveal all that time and effort on a public forum.

There are two people/companies I know of who could really set it up well, perhaps one better than the other, but they do charge well.
-when this knowledge is what is winning races (these guys set up race cars) they do tend to guard their knowledge.

One of these companies who I have used myself will give you a massive headache (brain ache as it is too much to take in) for days as they delve into suspension geometry at what they think is a basic level.
It's not something you will learn overnight.
All I can tell you is the roll centres are around 500 in parts, but intensive in the fitting and manipulation of parts - in the race series, you cannot alter pickup points, so I understand there is a lot of manipulation/strategic bending of parts to achieve the goal whilst keeping to regs.
It is this time (3 days?) that will cost the money.

I could have a good guess at what could be done in terms of parts, but I do not have the ability to draw up (the mathematical side) the suspension, scrub radius, roll centers, contact pressure etc etc, so it is far easier to pay the experts.

If the call is between roll centres and decent suspension with separate bump and rebound adjustment, it would likely be the suspension first.

Ahhh bollocks there is a reason why u should not drink and eBay! 😜😜

I appear to have bought a gripper diff so the quaife from the Reyland is up for grabs. Drop me a pm if anyone interested before it goes on fleabay.

P.

If you bought it while you were on the sherbet I'll give you £10 for it :smile1:

lmao...only just seen this thread...and after watching my brother build several projects, I fully expect this one to be the same, and spend the majority of the next 5 yrs in boxes and on stands, whilst he tells me I will change my mind when I drive or ride it......:-)))


:rofl:

Lol

Last couple did not turn out 2 bad :-)
Attachment 4981
Attachment 4982

Bummer situation at the moment, garage flooded after mains burst at top of drive and took out everything under the car which was there out of the way whilst welding / spraying.
Attachment 5181Attachment 5182Attachment 5183Attachment 5184

Gripper diff / wiring harness's / ecu / stack dash all swimming in
3" of dirt filled water

😡😡

Will that be a claim against who is responsible for the damage?

Yes mick, Severn Trent admit liability and to be fair have had loss guy out. Only prob I see is they don't do new for old so guy is trying to inflate costs to cover replacements.
Finger crossed it don't drag out for weeks.

Real feel for those who complete house floods, the mess it made in just 2 hrs was impressive !

We had the same thing last week.

Went out and found water rushing down the drive.

Appeared to come out where the sewer pipe came down the house. ££££'s sign at the thought of getting it sorted.

Then noticed it was still rushing down the drive, from a point outside the gate.

Water had pushed a telecom junction box lid off and water was pouring out.

The bit down the drive was coming out of their conduit, where they had brought the cable under the drive and up to the house.

Loads of stones and sand pushed out, water board were out in half an hour and fixed by 10.30 at night. Had to take our street light away as that was undermined.

As you say the amount of muck that gets pushed out is amazing. Lucky ours was a clean water main!!!

Hope they sort quickly and give generously for the replacement parts.

:thumbsup::thumbsup::thumbsup:

That's not good, hope it all gets sorted swiftly.

At least they have admitted responsibility and it's getting assessed. If that was pushed through on your home insurance you would have trouble.

I once made a claim for a break-in and the assessor said car spares were not covered. I had 4 off Revolution alloys with M+S tyres taken and they said as they were not on a car they are not covered! FFS how can I fit several spare sets to one car! They were off my oval racer. Daft but there you have it.

I was reading that Peter Best, covers spares stored in the house on their car insurance policies.

Not the car insurance, just checked and its their Household Policy.

Ugh, that's gutting! Hope you manage to get some compo from the insurance.

Fingers crossed, just waiting to here.

Things were going so well, just spraying up the engine bay / interior / mounting dash and new rad.

Now I gotta clear whole garage to get the bloody muck out, maybe Sunday once I build up to it lol.

Well its been a while since i updated anything so here goes.

Things moving along nicely, not fast due to work and lack of funds as always :laugh:

Old 180 Rad was beginning to fall apart so replaced with alloy Nissan unit but it needed a bit of work to fit.
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...D421E09F80.jpg

Lighter FLCA. From a civic but needed machining to accept the tapered MG ball joints:

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...2C9CBA68E9.jpg

GearBox:
Has been rebuilt but ATB has been replaced with a Gripper Unit, plus a few tart up bits.
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...198E7D3493.jpghttp://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...12F16D2C77.jpg

Front End starting to go back together:
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...1DD86B75AA.jpg

Engine:
stripped and off to have the whole lot balanced to new pistons:
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...58347B111D.jpg

Basic tests to head showed something was indeed not good!
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...D91AF1EBEE.jpg

report from Head guy was bent inlets, worn guides on inlet and exhaust causing exhaust valves to not seat any more.
Head still being done at mo but this time its having:
Uprated supertech exhuast valves
new inlets
new guides
recut seat
ported and flowed.

Bottom end pretty much back together, just waiting for head then the whole lot can go back in once bay has brake lines etc fitted.

http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...3DC35EC641.jpg

The Qpeng ECU has been dumped in favour of something more conventional.
http://i1225.photobucket.com/albums/...0B0868123E.jpg

More to Follow :-)