OK ... Directions to the clevis pin ... ?

Not keen on a Tf one, I'll keep an eye out for just a decent ZS or R45 wheel as they just go straight on. I'm not a machining guy.

I'm sure that a decent shop will get the bubbling sorted. Personally, I think there's enough Black on there at the moment so I reckon grey would be best, but we'll see.

It's the pin that attaches the master cylinder to the clutch pedal. You should be able to access it from the driver footwell.

There's someone on here selling spacers. I've got a TF wheel in my green one and a standard ZS wheel in my red one. I find I get better road feedback in the green one than the red.

Dan.do the tf conversion it's a superb mod.and not really that much hassle and it's likely the Clevis pin that is squeaking.a wee blast of wd where the pedal meets the master cylinder will sort that just a case of sticking you head under the dash to where the pedals sit.

Dan - do the Rover 45 conny conversion, the first thing I did on my mk2 was take out the TF wheel and fit the conny, the TF wheel went in the ZR and the adaptor to Pompski

The screen takes/took its feed from the boot. Should be able to lift the boot carpet and see the main power feed from the battery. It should have a gold clamp, then make sure there is a wire attached to it, I'm sure it was a red one that goes direct to the screen. I had the same thing when I first bought it from Kev and he guided me to the solution, it was due to there no longer being a boot build so everything was disconnected.
The lack of oomph could be several things and would guess it's likely down to being sat for a while and just lack of use?? Good call on checking vis, the power did stick now a ad again with sometimes just a pull apart enough to get it going. Any brakes sticking? One thing to check is accelerator cable, was at end of adjustment when I sold her and may well benefit from getting changed out. After doing that the air filter might be worth giving a clean, I can't remember if Jay said he had done that but could well be in his thread.
:)

I put a TF wheel in the diesel I had and didn't really like it. I found it obscured some of the dials. I've done the 45 wheel in others and prefer it. But - if I see a decent ZS wheel somewhere first, it'll do in the short term.

The vis indicators on the dash do light up. They are mostly green, but of the four, the second from the left goes yellow at low revs under acceleration... ? Not having had one before, I'm thinking yellow isn't good and it should be green, but I'm guided by you guys ... Should have the vis tester this week so we'll see what the score is for sure.

Squeek from the clutch was far less this morning on a short run, and dare I say it, it did seem a bit perkier. Maybe the motorway run has done it some good and Jay did say that it had been stored for 2 months before I collected.

He did clean out the induction kit, photos in his build thread so it's all good there I think.

Think the brakes are OK although the handbrake might need some adjustment.

Dan, the wheel on the the car is from a ZR. The adaptor you need for a TF wheel is already on the column as the ZR wheel has a shorter 'stump' than the ZS wheel so the adaptor was needed for that too. If you take the wheel off you'll see it, so fitting a TF wheel would be no problem for you, you'd just need to purchase the correct rotary coupler.

Concerning the DVD player, I removed the wires from the boot as I wasn't sure what they were for and they didn't lead to anywhere, now I realise they were for a subwoofer/amp after reading Gary's comment. I must have removed the wires for the DVD player too, I just assumed it didn't work as I never tried it before I did that.

I did clean out the air intake system and also the oil catch tank so I don't think that will give you any problems.

I think the fact she'd been stood for a while may be the reason she's feeling a bit sluggish, she was running perfect prior to this though. I'll try and give you a brief explanation of how The VIS lights work.

Under hard - moderate acceleration, the second LED and fourth LED from the left should both turn orange. As the power VIS kicks in (3000 RPM iirc) the far left LED (LED number 1) should light up green and in turn the second LED from the left that was previously orange should now be extinguished. LED number four (fourth from the left) should however remain orange until the balance VIS kicks in at 5000 RPM, iirc, and then the third light along (from the left) should turn green and in turn LED number four should extinguish.

I hope you can understand that and it clears a few things up for you.

Jay.

Thanks Jay. Really appreciated.