I have a big club hammer, for sorting the delicate bits.

:group::group::group:

Funny that............had a lump hammer and small chisel as the old induction lower bracket wouldn't budge, rounded bolt head!

14 lb sledge handy as well.

:):):)

Glad to see you are finding the motivation to get started on it again Mick.

Thanks Grimmy. Yea took some doing but into it now.

Stripping parts off to clean it and service it has highlighted several areas of corrosion, expected for something 14 years old I guess. Making up some cardboard templates ready to transfer to sheet steel. MIG welder recommissioned, no great but working. Ideally I would like to buy a new one.

Brackets cleaned, ground and sprayed with smooth hammerite. Need to get the wheels off so I can access the inner wing rust areas, one of these needs a plate as well. Front nearside tie down hanger is bad.

Ordered some M6 hex head flanged bolts in stainless to replace all those removed as they are pretty bad.

Nice one .my old bus is still going strong.it does have bit of an issue gearbox wise and the front jacking points are bit ropey but apart from that it seems fine.again not bad for 12 years old.

Treated the rusty bits, all looking much better. You have reminded me Grimmy, I have jacking points that need attention! Another one on the list to add! Before rain stopped play I managed to get inside and remove the remainder of the aircon system, dropped the matrix and filter, another useless lump removed! Need to knock up a couple of machined parts this week.

Glad to read that progress is being made...

I'm in a frustrating point of limbo.. should have sorned the car, or not left it so long on the hope that I'd get the one vital part I need to get the last bits done "tomorrow" or I should have just picked it up and driven it as it was without the new bits...

Been 9 months now and still no progress :(

What with new a car on the drive, my enthusiasm is ebbing faster and faster...

Pete if I had your car on my drive mine would be the same! No shame in that!

All I can say is.............'Relearn MG' :D

If it's any consolation my T16 maestro wears a tax disc that expired in December 2007.

If I could get in it and drive it, I am sure the love would return, but it's 150miles away outside a farm workshop still!

Due to my dad's recent hospital stay, I did 1000 miles in under a month.... One thing I can say, she's a lot thirstier than a diesel ZS ever will be... My US friend nearly had a heart attack when I told her how much that had cost me in fuel!

Had a few bits in the post this week. Busy weekend ahead if things go to plan!

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...pslr5tvw9g.jpg

Machined these up this week, both mounts totally corroded, lower fan bracket and mount post.

looking good Mick, glad to see you have the will to work on the zed back.

amazing the difference a few days can make :-)

P.

Quite right Paul. As it is sorned I am now more compelled to get stuck in with no self imposed deadlines. So it'll be done when it's done.

Took a stab at repairing the hole in the radiator, nothing to lose by trying it, so bought some chemical metal as used this before with very good results, so applied and quick spray paint and all's good.

Ordered some more stainless fixings to replace rusty ones. Fitted the non-aircon aux belt and refitted the engine mounts.

Made a steel template up for the tow hanger that is rusty, welder is bust so need to buy a new one, that's holding me up as need to weld the plate in position before popping the rad back in. Just ordered a 180amp inverter MIG welder, very good reviews and on 12 months 0% so a no-brainer really. Then I can get on and do the inner wing repairs and ready for when I start on the wheel arch mods ;) Photos to follow.

Good to see things moving along, I've had good results with JB Weld on rad repairs

Sounds like its coming along nicely,,,,

A little update.

• Radiator back in, brackets painted.
• Waiting for top hose T piece for temp sensor for gauge before final fit.
• Waiting for Mikalor hose clips to turn up.
• Stainless steel fixings replacing all old rusted ones, greased up before fitting.
• Currently re-wiring the battery location, kill switch and new dash panel.
• Welded repair panel to n/s strap hanger.
• Waiting for connectors and cable to finish off kill switch wiring and dash gauges.
• Trial fit of wheel arch flares, first type was too big on the radius, second smaller version ordered was a perfect fit. Need to by another arch so I can split that into two.
• Rust treated front end, still have a repair panel to weld into the inner o/s/f wing area.

Still looking sorry for itself but it'll come good eventually. Hard to get a days work in as there is always something to buy that holds up progress.


Next tool is a sheet metal punch, not doing it the hole saw way, finish is crap!

Be good to see, when its all back together.

MG's on track at Goodwood??

:):):)

Wish I knew how to weld lol - and yes I know I can do a night course, I have considered it many a time, but it takes up precious family time going back to college

That sounds good actually... would be interested in something like that myself once I have done a few more things to my ZS!

Good man.

:group::group::group: :):):)

Defo MGoT when it's done, really missed hitting the circuits. This week the missus will be giving me funny looks with all the little packets turning up!

Good to see him coming along nicely.........Even better when its back on the road/track

3 hours one evening a week for a term gets you a good grounding.

Slow progress being made........

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...psyfxiq5ax.jpg
Induction layout so far.

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...ps63amqw96.jpg
Temperature sensor and hose 'T' for dash gauge.


Running wires for the gauges. Swapped the sump plug for the Elise adaptor and sensor, that was easier and not as messy as expected. Just need to do the pressure switch adaptor which looks a little tricky with limited space to fit the other parts.

Cables re-routed/remade and run for the battery master switch and relocated battery. Just need to work out the loom and locations to re-route through the master switch terminals for the ecu and pump isolation. One problem encountered so far........I cannot find my battery box! So contemplating either a new one, an alloy chassis bracket or a gel type race battery. As it is a track car and not MSA spec it doesn't need a battery box, but looks better if it was in one.

Dash gauge placement was not as expected, dash panel needs fettling to clear the bezels or it won't sit right.

Some interior work to do, but that'll come in time as my 'to do' list is growing! If I keep this up it won't be on the road for ages!

In the boot of mine, Jay left some bits. Amongst it are a few pod type things that were in the A-frame pillar bit. Any good to you ?

Not sure I need them tbh as got them in the front centre vent position, thanks anyway :thumbsup:

OK - think they are oil temp and battery or something .... no worries though.

The induction looks almost the same as mine, are you adding another elbow to draw from the inner wing?

I am planning to replace the smaller filter with an elbow tee'd off the main intake, at the moment it draws the radiator heated air raising the "temperature" of the inlet when travelling in slow traffic so running a hot air map, then when one gets moving it's like it takes a big gulp of cooler air through the main filter and adjusts the map accordingly.
Probably less of an issue on a track car.

When I first ran the set up I still had the resonator box in place but when I removed that I found the main filter ran warmer, I guess the resonator acted as a baffle reducing the amount of warm engine bay air reaching the inner wing. I have the materials to blank this space under the chassis rail, just haven't used it yet (4 years and counting).

What is the advantage of running the extra temp gauge?

Is the battery going behind the seat again or in the boot?
If it is the boot the cable can go under the car.

When I moved my battery I ran a new lead from the under bonnet fusebox to the starter.
I then sniped out the cut out next to the bolt in the fusebox that holds this lead.
I used this to add the lead to the battery.

Battery is behind the passenger seat, cables all sorted.

Looked at the bodywork today and got brutal! Long given up on the BTCC kit that was being mooted a few years back. I have decided to try the hotrod route, this is something I used well over 25 years ago when building oval racers. As this is just the track car and not an everyday or show car I don't mind doing this. I want it to look different and a little aggressive ;)

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...sap6dzkau.jpeg

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...sppolaopc.jpeg

Take a steel trailer arch, (arch radius to suit wheel arch to be modified) cut in half and offer to wing to be modified. The rest is a leap of faith, cutting disc and MIG welder!

I am still finding my feet with the new welder so this is just a temporary fit until I am happy with the position and clearance. Still need practice! It'll take a few attempts until I am happy and can then detail the final fit and then cut the arch and bond this to the bumper so it can still be removed. This is going to be a long process as having to do this outside.

Better results than I got with my first use of my mig, are you using gasless because that looks like a lack of gas shield (listen to me, I sound like I think I'm an expert).

My last welder was a Snap-On 130 turbo and was easy to use and set up, this latest one has more controls so I need to find the right settings and log them. So I will be using my spare sheet steel to find the right settings etc. I really need to get a decent gas set up as currently using a throwaway bottle and not good quality. My biggest problem is getting back into it as not done any welding for probably 20 years!

Oh Mick ....

Am I the only one thinking - My God ! What have you done .... !!!! ???? :drunk:

Hope you can get it all done to your high standards and sure it'll work out well in the end ..... :clover:

Nice work!!!

I thought that too Dan! :laugh:

I really wanted to do something different and seeing this is an old mk1 and not a show car as such I thought ****** it and do it!

Hopefully when the work goes to plan. Re-positioned the arch again and looks better. Cut the nearside off and will be fettling that today (day off). The hard part will be bonding the rear section to the bumper before slitting the arch so they are separated.

i like it, cant wait to see the finished article.

Not much to report as been nursing a damaged back for the last 5 weeks from the karting accident. Plus the weather has kicked in and stopped me doing little things. Today was on the cards to do some more bodywork but it is pissing it down out there! I have started to remove the tar from the floor, doing it the old way, heat gun and scraper as no access to dry ice. Had my 5AS and fobs for several weeks now but not had a chance to test them yet. I have a list of things to work through in the hope it'll be ready for PoL but I will assess this nearer the time, no point in rushing it. It won't be perfect but it isn't a show car, it is one to get used!

Grabbed a couple of hours today before the light faded, painkillers got me through!

http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...ps3jiwt0sq.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...pscgcqmy3y.jpg
http://i98.photobucket.com/albums/l2...psiprfhvtu.jpg

That's the rear two arches in position. Bonded Bighead fasteners to the rear bumper sections inside, I'll weld a couple of brackets to the rear arch section, screw these to the Bighead fasteners, Once set in position I can then slit the wheel arch free so they are now separated. Once done I can then remove the bumper and then glassfibre the arch section to the bumper then fill and blend in. Another little learning curve as I am not a panel beater or bodywork specialist! So doing it my way as an engineer probably would!

Oh I changed the welding wire to flux cored and went gasless as was welding outside and had much improved welds, so the gas was getting blown away, didn't think it would be that bad as hardly any wind but it certainly made a big difference.

Reinstalled 5AS and fobs didn't work, emailed Paul to find a solution or see if I can remove the immobiliser as it is a pita!