T16
 

Picked up the T16 from Stamford a few weeks back now and have been chasing issues, as normal when you pick up a new secondhand car.

First issue was that I was not 100% happy with the suspension, so had a look under the car to find that the roll bar bushes were shot, so replaced them with new OE ones from rimmers.

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While there found some odd rubber "spring helpers" wound around the front springs, so pulled them off as well. Handling is 1000 x better now :)

Next was to find out why the interior fan wasn't working, after finding the resistor pack had disintegrated and fan seized I replaced both of them, but still it didn't work. Further investigation found that a fuse in the engine bay had gone so replaced that and now all is well.

something that has been annoying since we picked the car up (and I think Mick was chasing as well) was around 3-4k rpm the car would run rough, but only under load. Mick had already changed the coolant temp sender and on research the symptoms could also be spark plugs, rotor arm, distributor cap, cam or crank sensors as well.

Replaced the spark plugs, distributor cap and rotor arm, then cleaned up the earth points, but this didn't sort the issue.

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Whilst changing the plugs I found the throttle body mount was in bad shape and leaking air, so replaced it and then commisioned an alloy one to be made up :) - still waiting for this, will fit when it arrives.


Unplugged the cam sensor and car still ran, so then replugged it in and unplugged the crank sensor and again car still ran fine. So unlikely to be them, however I removed them both to clean them.

Whilst cleaning the crank sensor i noticed a small plastic pipe that comes out of the manifold and goes to the MEMS unit was not connected. I pushed this back into place and it popped out again as soon as I stepped back (not running the engine).

I did some research and found this is the MAP sensor, so using a zip tie reattached to the mems unit. Then took the car for a drive.

its much much better now, no rough running and a bit more power to boot :)

So what's next on the cards? Well it has a significant oil leak from somewhere, so next is to locate and fix that. Although I am told switching to 10W50 oil might help, so I will perform a full service at some point and see if that helps. Also I would like a pscan to connect to this (and my F's) ECU :)

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Oh glad you've made some progress with it, but shame about the niggles....

no boost signal getting back to the ECU, I'm amazed it didn't run like a dog all the time... the L-series does when the map sensors hose is disconnected!

That is some progress.

It'll be worth checking that you still connect a scanner to the system, numpty who fitted my T16 in the maestro butchered the scanner wiring.

Deffo got the three pin diags hanging out the mems unit :) just need pscan and the adaptor :)

Also forgot to say that I had some new tyres fitted and 4 wheel alignment done, on fitting the wheels back to the rear drivers side, one of the studs fell off.

A quick ebay later and I had a new hub assembly at my door and fitted the same day (as delivery, 2 days after tyre fitting).

As the car has spacers (due to the brembo 4 pots) I am considering longer studs in the future, not made my mind up just yet :)

Pleased you are finding the time I didn't have. I do miss it but had to be done. There is more hidden than first realised, shame really as it didn't seem the case, probably why it didn't do many miles?

Safe hands indeed. Good that it's gone to one of us who has the knowledge and drive to get it running well and keep us posted with progress.

Decided to take the car to work today, 40 mile trip either direction.

On the way there I noticed that under hard acceleration at around 3.5k revs the whole thing cut out like hitting a brick wall. Blooming scary if you don't understand boost-cut.

Boost-cut, or fuel-cut, for those that don't know what it is. Is when the ecu detects an "Over Boost" and cuts fuel to protect the engine, and when it does this it is very very harsh! Seriously its like hitting a brick wall.

The MEMS 1.6 ECU boost-cuts at 14.5psi. Looking at the boost gauge the car was hitting 1.25 bar (roughly 18 psi) so I stopped at some services and wound back the boost regulator 5 clicks (no idea what a click is, just seemed a good number) and continued to work.

The exact same thing happened at 1.25 bar, so at work I did some research and discovered that this particular car was built at 14psi of boost with standard internals, but must at some point have been wound up to about 22psi!!

So, I would back to 14 psi (roughly 1 bar) and the journey home had no boost-cuts at all. So problem solved.

BUT! On the A272 I was stuck behind a slow driver, hitting max speeds of 30 in nationals and 25 in the 50 zones... So, knowing my boost-cut issues were solved and knowing the road I decided to overtake.

<insert naughty words here> I dropped two gears and pulled out then floored it as you do, fighting the torque steer and within what felt like a second I hit 70 and couldn't see any cars behind me. Damn this thing is fast! and handles well when it needs to!

Checked my speed for the change in limit, checked my trousers and continued home... lesson learned, you don't need to floor the T16 when overtaking!!!

:laugh: it is a bit of an animal isn't it! I floored it a couple of times and fought the torque steer, you need some room to control it. Drives well when not on boost, quite civilised!

I must admit, I've floored it a few times before and thought it was quick, but that's the first time "in anger" flooring it since fixing the issues that slowed it down. Nice and smooth power delivery, easy to spin wheels in third without thinking and quicker than the RX8 by a long way (ours is a 231 bhp standard car) I wasn't expecting how much power it can put down and how nice the delivery is :)

Sounds like my T16 maestro (when it's on the road).

I love that feeling the first time one floors it in anger in a really fast car..... I equally appreciate the stupid grin and double checking no brown trousers! :D

I wonder what torque the T16 is kicking out - I presume it running a Torsen in it?

In 3rd and upwards (torque limited in 1st & 2nd) mine would give a strong tug if you floored it even with the Quaife, and that's only at around 270lbsft.....

I am slightly concerned what it might be like when we get the turbo on (that is getting closer to occurring now); with current injectors we'll not see much more torque, but there's potential with the experimental ones I've got to see 300+ and a lot still at the top end!

Glad to hear tho that you're enjoying the car :)

According to my research it has a Quaiffe diff in it ;)

The torque in the car feels more than the 180, however until I am 100% happy with the way it runs and stick it on a rolling road, noone will know for sure what it has torque/power wise. I know this engine kicked out 260Bhp in the 420, before it was transplanted to the ZS, so quietly am hoping for a higher figure now ;)

Some research for today...

7 years ago, when it was built by AMW Motorsport (Then called AA Motorsport) the engine spec was standard internals, gt28 turbo, Cookie downpipe, Pulsar fmic, 14psi, Mongoose exhaust and decat, Brembo 4 Pot calipers and bigger front discs, Radtec alloy rad and twin fans and a ITG cold air box.

The interior has changed, fitting heated seats, mk1 ZS Red Monaco seat covers, rear headrests, electric front and rear windows.

Suspension mods: zs180 front and rear arb's, poly bushed arb's, Bilstein shocks and Eibach xpower springs - 25mm drop.

Between then and it coming into my ownership it has had a Sports Cat added and Exhaust changed to a duel exit with Clio Diffuser. It has also had an Alloy cam cover and oil cap, custom made for it and fitted.

Found a picture of the 420 the engine came from too: http://i4.photobucket.com/albums/y14...pse3f904bf.jpg

I will update this thread, as I find things, to keep all info in one place :)

Will be keeping an eye on this thread, looks like it's going to be good. :)

Sent from my F5121 using Tapatalk

Annoyingly...

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The gear selector steady rod has fallen off the gearbox :(

Luckily not too bad a fix, once I find the appropriate bolt and dished washer... annoying all the same though!

Oh dear :(

hopefully not too much of an issue getting it and yourself back home/work!

I opted for AA to take me home, then carried on to work in the 180 :)

Also just purchased the bolt and washer from Rimmer Brothers, and a short shift from Dark Ice... Contemplating the link upgrade, but think i will get under first and see if its needed :)

Got a shortshifter on mine now. It’s a good mod. Really reduced the throw.
I also did the joint replacement too along with the bushes. It’s like a different shift now. Much more positive.

Car is repaired :) and I can select gears again :trampoline:

However... I have a coolant leak :(

Its coming from whatever is under the alternator... water pump at a guess? Not looked to close as its pitch black and saw it by torchlight :)

Car is repaired - Yey !
Coolant leak - Boo !

One step forwards another to the side!

I went to drive the ZS the other night after putting it all back together - flat tyre and battery!

Hopefully nothing too serious for you to fix on the coolant side!

Doesn't matter how much fluid I put in the header tank, it just flows straight out the water pump! So... yeah.. deffo water pump.

I have purchased 20 (I know I only need 5!) M6 bolts and a water pump with all O rings etc, for around £30, just waiting for it all to turn up now :)

As I see it I have two issues, otherwise its a straight forward change over.

1. People report the crap OE M6 bolts will be corroded and snap when I try to undo them, at this point its a 50/50 if they need drilling out on a bench drill or can be removed with pliers or similar.

2. Since this system is all Stainless coolant pipes and Samco silicone pipes there is no bleed screw... so I will have to work out another way of bleeding the system.

Oh and the F has issues with oil (none in the sump and it wont let me put anything in the filler pipe...) and the RX8 died a death and needs a new engine... leaving me with one working car, the 180 that desperately needs a respray and some other bodywork! - Still at least we are mobile still :)

Something to be said there then for the 180 even after it took a prang recently. Get her sprayed up - show her some love.

Some good news and some bad news...

I have been quiet on the T16 front for a while as a few weeks back (months!) we took the T16 up to Halifax and while there it started to idle odd and stalled a couple of times at lights. She made it home without drama though and then parked up and refuses to start at all since.

The other week I decided to check her out and see what I could find, I pressure tested the engine to find only 1-2 PSI in all cylinders. So thats it, dead engine.

Now when I picked the car up it was suffering, what I now know was, boost cut due to the boost being set to 24psi. I suspect what has happened is that the ring lands have gone as is when you run over 12 psi for any long time (Pete ran 14psi since the rebuild).

Since then I have been quietly amassing parts, I have some wossner pistons on PEC rods (weighted set), new big end bearings, head gasket kit, sump gasket kit (which should fix a small oil leak it has as well!) and new piston rings for the wossner. Also purchased a few new tools to help me fit all this (pistons ring pliers for example).

All that is left is new stretch bolts and then I can begin the rebuild :trampoline:

Then I think she can go into the booth for a much needed paint refresh!

I will keep this updated as an when I start the process.

Not great news on the engine front, atleast you're trying to rebuild it rather than swapping it for another T-16 engine. Best of luck with it anyway, hope to see it running dead on again

Good luck Sam, been a few dramas with this car and the 180. We must really love ZS's!

Good on you giving it a go ... :bow:

I think, for me, I need to concentrate on one car :) - Buying the 6 allows me to do just that I hope :) - also means the 180 needs to be shifted really, which is a shame as it has a lot of nice parts on and a decent engine!

I've rebuilt (new pistons\liners etc) a K series engine or two before, so I am hoping there is nothing too alien to me when I pull the T series apart. In theory this should make it a very good, reliable engine. Then its paint and rust prevention.

Of course there is also the option to take parts from the 180 to upgrade the T16 as well... Rear Disks maybe? Front Fogs? Maybe a few other goodies....

Sounds like this one is keeping you on your toes as well - just as well you like spending the time on them :)

fingers crossed that the rebuild goes to plan and nothing else unexpected is thrown up!

Where in the UK? Passenger doors still in good condition?


Drew

The 180? Its sat in my unit down between Alton and Winchester... The doors were replaced with good ones, so yeah they might be odd colours (two are XPG and two are green) and two handles need the normal fix, but I don't think they are dented or anything.

I could use some new ones on my xpg. Car park scratch/dent through both doors!


Drew

I didn't realise it was that bad. I never touched the boost when I had it, left it as found. I will admit if I kept it myself I would have looked at a rebuild in the future with forged internals as that is what it needs with that spec. It is really on the edge.

there is no way anyone would have realised it was that bad till it happened.

I was going to do a rebuild at some point anyway, its just speed up my plans :)

So... a long time coming, life gets in the way... but I decided it really is time to get the car back on the road! (I didn't realise it had been quite so long actually!)

I have been collecting parts over the last year and, after moving house, now have a garage I can work in, rather than trying to do this on the drive at my previous house.

I started the strip down last weekend:

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Whilst there I found a troubling sight, the large black intake hose in this photo:

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Yeah that hose, it goes from the ITG enclosed filter, through the normal route, into the inner wing. But it was full (I mean full) of water!

So once the car is back together I need to work out a way to stop water getting to the induction system.

Realising that actually it is quite possible that all my non starting issues could simply be down to the lack of air getting past the water, I could have reassembled the lot and see if it started up. However I am this far now and I have all the parts... So I am going to continue with the rebuild.

First issue: Cambelt cover is held on by alen head bolts, so simply remove them all, top cover comes off easy, bottom cover has ONE 8mm bolt at the bottom left. I have two socket sets in my house and not a single 8mm socket!?!?!? How did that happen? Plenty of 7mm and 9mm but no 8mm.

No matter, I will get the other tools from the unit in the week. Lets move on to the sump and work my way through the bolts on that.

Second Issue: The sump is also held on by alen head bolts. I easily remove 6 of them, the 7th is a little harder than the others so apply a little more pressur....BANG. I snapped my tool leaving part of it in the bolt!

Right, thats enough for the day (this was last weekend) I will grab yet more tools from the unit and bring them back ready to work on the car over the bank holiday weekend! (Apparently going to be one of the hottest august bank holidays on record).

Anyway, thought you guys would like an update and to know the car is not dead, and is being fixed (finally!) :)

Because I have added my other cars to this thread before...

The MGF is back on the road, turns out the issues i had with that are because the altinator froze up and the resulting high load melted the cable between the altinator and the starter motor.

The MGF is currently white, with line drawings all over... but has gone back in the booth for a respray before a show next weekend!

The MG6 flywheel is dead, currently still being used as a workhorse, but it desperately needs changing (poor show at 40k miles IMO and costs over a grand to fix in parts alone apparently).

the RX8 is the reliable one!

The 180, is sitting at the unit waiting for me to find time to do the bodywork that is required!

Busy boy Sam! Have you moved again? Can’t keep up.

Yeah we moved over to Bordon, closer to work for me and a bigger house, plus a garage which is a massive plus :)

Got the head off:

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and in the process noticed that the timing was massively out:

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Now I am stumped on the sump. It is held on by theses (imo stupid) hex bolts:

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And I have managed to snap two hex key tools inside two of the nuts (the rest undid really easy!).

Anyone have any idea, either how to get the rest of the tool out of the bolt, or how to remove the bolt without doing any damage to the sump or block?