[Big-Jay]

Originally Posted by tcb 180

Any chance you can post up pics of what treatments you are using? Be interested for my little winter project. I bought some good quality rust renovator. The zinc coat I'm after.

No problem.

I usually have a set routine when it comes to rust removal/treatment.

Firstly, I'll completely remove any underseal or top coat from the area I'm working with. This is the only way to get the full picture of how bad any given area is.

I use a knotted wire wheel on my angle grinder as it makes light work of removing factory underseal and paint. Here's a link to what I use - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/100mm-4-TW...-/262727252383.

Smaller knotted wheels can also be purchased for use in a drill for tighter areas.

Always try to purchase a crimped wire wheel as the un-crimped wheels have a nasty habit of disintegrating mid-use when they have worn down. Make sure to always wear eye protection too, these are no joke, especially the angle grinder wheel.

The area should look something like this after the initial wire brushing -





Here's an example of how efficient factory/aftermarket underseal can be at hiding rust and corrosion. What looks to be a reasonably sound area is quite the opposite once the underseal has been removed. This is an XPG ZS I used to own -





And upon removal of said underseal -





In this case welding/panel replacement was required.

If I have any rusty/pitted areas I like to use rust removers, not converters. I've tried many different converters in the past and they just don't cut it in my opinion. The only way to effectively deal with rust is to remove it, all your doing with a converter is delaying the inevitable.

A good rust remover is Bilt Hambers Deox Gel. You simply brush it on to the rusty area, cover it with some cling film so it doesn't dry out, and leave it for a period of time whilst agitating it with a wire brush every few hours or so. I usually like to leave it on for 24 hours depending on the severity of the rust.

This is the product -



Here's a link to some on eBay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bilt-Hambe...4AAOSw1KxXNZkY

And in action -





When it gets to the above stage you simply wash off the brown/green sludge with some clean water, and then you should be left with a rust free surface on which you can paint -



After this is done I like to use Zinc Rich Primer.

Zinc primer has great anti corrosion properties and is also not as porous as regular primer, meaning i can leave something in the primer stage for longer without rust creeping back in. Rust would usually start to form fairly quickly if I were to use regular/acid etch primers for example, as these primers are very porous.

Another benefit of Zinc primer is it will sacrifice its self for minor rust on the metal, essentially killing it off.

Here's a link to the Zinc Primer I use- http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Zinc-Spray...cAAMXQVERSwzdT

Its cheaper to buy this primer in bulk.

Heres the under arch of my current ZS Zinc Primed -



I usually apply 2-3 coats.

After that's done I like to use a good quality stone chip/underseal. I use UPOL Gravigard in Aerosol form as it's reasonably priced and gives excellent long term protection.

Here's a link - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/U-Pol-Grav...gAAOSwDk5T7JzG

You can also buy its sister product UPOL Gravtex for use in an air powered spray gun.

Again, it's much cheaper to buy this stuff in bulk.

I can't stress enough that this has to be layed down in VERY thin coats with sufficient time to dry in between coats. Try to put too much on too quickly and you'll end up with a mess on the floor. Practice makes perfect when it comes to applying the underseal, it's not a job to be rushed. It does say ready to be over painted in 3-4 hours but I'd recommend you leave it for 24 hours to fully cure.

Here's the underarch of the XPG ZS after 2-3 coats of Gravigard -





That's the main bulk of the rust protection completed. After this I like to apply some correct coloured top coat and some anti corrosion wax to ensure the longevity of the rust protection.

I use Bilt Hambers Dynax UC Wax, it's excellent stuff and easily the best I've used thus far.

Here's a link to the product - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bilt-Hambe...wAAOxygLxSVRxt

For the box sections and cavitys I use Bilt Hambers S-50. Here's a link to some on eBay - http://m.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bilt-Hamber-...%257Ciid%253A1

I've learnt that less is more regarding the S-50. After entering the lance into the box section, a smooth even movement will produce a nice thin coat which will then seap into any seams. Apply too much into a box section and you'll just serve to block up drain holes which will cause more issues in the future.

Thats just common sense your probably thinking, but you'd be surprised at how many people I've seen absolutely cake the inside of their cills in wax and then complain that the wax doesn't work when they've had to have cill's replaced later down the line.

Finally, here's a couple of shots of the finished underarch on the XPG ZS with the top coat and wax applied -





Jay.