Quote:
Originally Posted by Mark S
what are you doing for rear brakes?
I don't know much about the mk1 dash, but the mk2 dash can be stripped right down to little more than the bare shell leaving the centre fix point and the sides, if you are putting race seats in - that usually sit lower, then its worth lowering the dash an inch or two so you can see over the clocks!
I did weigh a stripped one but I have forgotten how much it weighs, obviously not as light as a fibreglass copy - which is always an idea, but light enough not to be concerned too much about what it does weigh. (2.6kg is in my mind, but just a guess)
10 - 8's should be a good start point.
A real gain is sorting out the roll centre on the front, this will allow you to lower the car whilst maintaining correct scrub radius & contact pressure patch on the tyres.
This is what evrey one overlooks when they drop the car believing low cog is the answer then wonder why they are no quicker - just feels quicker 'cause their lower to the ground.
The kinematics need to work, and when they do, a simple change in tyre pressure will be noticeable.
|
Hi mark,
Rears are just ebc race discs with matching pads / braided lines ATM. It's setup with bias control valve so should be able to tweek it. I may look at a rear upgrade if needed but not ATM.
It has full track / race uber light seats with a stack dash so will set everything inc dash to a comfortable heights.
Just thinking a stripped down mk1 dash may give it a little more original look ??
The suspension is fully adjustable ie camber/castor/toe/arbs/ ride height so I should be able to play with the setup once I get a feel for the car. Coming from 2 wheels its going to be a learning curve but its easier to adjust a bike than a car without all the gear. Looks like it will be a few hrs on a setup rig winding up and down the adjusters whilst making some markers some I can adjust it myself after that.
P.