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19-08-09, 08:27 PM
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#1
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Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Sheerness
Posts: 1,078
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Window Motors
Can anyone plz tell me if the drivers side window motor is supposed to go up all the way on it's own, as it goes down!
Also, my drivers side window comes down in 3 stages? Is this right or is it supposed to go down in 1 sweeping movement?
LoL, also, can the passengers side be done so it operates like the drivers side??
Thanx for reading hope someone can help!!
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19-08-09, 08:53 PM
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#2
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Member
Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: Birmingham
Posts: 445
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The drivers window should go down all the way in one touch of the switch but on the way up it stops as soon as you let go of the switch. Try using some silicone lubricant in the runners, i did and the windows are 100% better.
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20-08-09, 10:00 AM
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#3
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 10,493
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On my early mk1 the when you press the switch down lightly it lowers until you let go. If you press harder you feel a click and it drops automaticly. It is controlled by an ECU in the door.
I guess you'd need to get the ECU and the auto switch to make it work in the passanger door and then customise the wiring loom to work.
Until recently my drivers door auto function wasn't working as the screws that hold the switch in place were not holding due to the threads in the holes wearing, I took 1/8" of the back of the screw holes on the switch to let the screws go in further and hold, now the auto works.
However, proberbly due to a lack of maintance by the P/O (it was a main dealer serviced car from new!) I've always had a problem with the window wobbling in the guides so when it is raised the top rear secion comes out of the runner, I have used a peice of wood to reduce flex in the front runner which has mostly cleared the problem but at the moment the glass sticks at about half on the way down on auto.......................
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Former custodian of the legend that was FE54 - RIP
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20-08-09, 09:31 PM
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#4
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Member
Join Date: Dec 2008
Location: Ashford, Kent
Posts: 1,030
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I have the same problem with my mk2... Pressing it once moves it down about 80% of the way, then it stops... Pressing it again goes to 90%, and again to 100%.
Yet if you hold the button down it goes all the way down in one go!
Am going to try and grease the runners up and see if it makes a difference!
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20-08-09, 09:40 PM
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#5
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2009
Location: Strood, Kent
Posts: 835
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Same here Will with the Mark 1, if you hold your finger on the button harder it tends to go all the way down, but temperamental, a definite grease up required!!
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20-08-09, 09:45 PM
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#6
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Registered User
Join Date: Jul 2007
Location: Kent
Posts: 1,909
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The only MGR car that had the one-shot up and down on both doors was the 75/ZT.
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21-08-09, 05:46 AM
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#7
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Member
Join Date: May 2009
Location: Sheerness
Posts: 1,078
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Quote:
Originally Posted by EMS Ltd.
The only MGR car that had the one-shot up and down on both doors was the 75/ZT.
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That would be the car my brother's just bought!!!
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21-08-09, 06:04 PM
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#8
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Member
Join Date: Feb 2008
Location: UK
Posts: 10,493
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I thought the mk1 213 and 216 had one shot on both sides if electric windows were factory fitted.
__________________
Former custodian of the legend that was FE54 - RIP
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21-08-09, 09:20 PM
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#9
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technically an expertish
Join Date: Jun 2008
Location: Clydebank, Glasgow
Posts: 7,902
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no, the 75 is completely different wiring, unless you could get a left hand drive zs being broken, or possibly a honda civic, not sure about the wiring on the hond's thats all, would imagine it would be a lot of hastle and a lot of things gettin kicked in anger to do it lol,
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21-08-09, 10:21 PM
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#10
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Member
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Paisley
Posts: 634
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ritchyp
no, the 75 is completely different wiring, unless you could get a left hand drive zs being broken, or possibly a honda civic, not sure about the wiring on the hond's thats all, would imagine it would be a lot of hastle and a lot of things gettin kicked in anger to do it lol,
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Wiring is exactly the same on 5 door MB civic model for the electric window circuit, wire colours are also the exact same for the zs, and putting another control unit in wouldnt bee too hard, if you understand electrics.
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