Reyland Zs Rebuild / Update

[Noobrider]

all been done, the R1 drift car is proof of concept

[talkingcars]

Originally Posted by Noobrider

all been done, the R1 drift car is proof of concept

But not as an everyday road car.

[sneekyparrot]

Just way to pricey compared to what us available if you want rwd.
You only have to look at Ross's charged m3 or wander over the drift sites to see what can be picked up for the price of a decent v8 engine.

P.

Gonna have to upstate the rebuild soon, its moved on a hell of a lot since last time !

[sneekyparrot]

Ok on me hols in sunny Spain, we got wifi so thought I would try a little update before we head out for foods :-)

Cage updates:
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Intention was and is to build a chassis to take a much more powerful motor, so I have been carrying out a few major mods to the cage.

Ummm gonna have to do this in stages! Bloody tapatalk grrr

[sneekyparrot]

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The cage is now picking up the suspension / a pillar / b pillar / screen areas / across dash and behind the front seat. It's been triangulated from the b- pillars back to the rear suspension.
Once the rear has been stitch welded I can at last start re spraying the inside / engine bay.

[sneekyparrot]

The Avo suspension has been removed and sold, it was just way to soft for what I want and have planned for the car.
I have some new skunk pro c coilover's that were available so they were snapped up. These are much more in line with plan, fully adjustable from the top! And running much heavier spring rates 10k/8k. Although still a little softer than I planned but with all the chassis mods I was airing on caution as ATM I will still have to drive the car to the track.

Brakes will be 6 pots on huge discs as supplied from the creator aka mr reyland and apparently will stop the car with ease no matter what engine I fit :-)

All the abs system has been removed and is being replaced with manual control valves for the bias.

Still no sign of the btcc bodywork but its not like I need it ATM.

I have all the suspension stripped and ready for powder coating. Once painted they will be re assembled with poly bushes.

Still can't decide about the race dash or just strip the ***** out of the uber heavy stock unit and get that flocked? Ummm

Bloody doors weigh a tonne but I have a plan, just depends if it works out! If I can at least replace the front doors with fibre glass units then I reckon its more than achievable to get the scales close to 900kg mark and that with the new spec mk1 motor should make the thing fly!

Mk2 motor is now sitting in the shed but that's for another day hehe :-))

[Mark S]

what are you doing for rear brakes?

I don't know much about the mk1 dash, but the mk2 dash can be stripped right down to little more than the bare shell leaving the centre fix point and the sides, if you are putting race seats in - that usually sit lower, then its worth lowering the dash an inch or two so you can see over the clocks!
I did weigh a stripped one but I have forgotten how much it weighs, obviously not as light as a fibreglass copy - which is always an idea, but light enough not to be concerned too much about what it does weigh. (2.6kg is in my mind, but just a guess)

10 - 8's should be a good start point.

A real gain is sorting out the roll centre on the front, this will allow you to lower the car whilst maintaining correct scrub radius & contact pressure patch on the tyres.
This is what evrey one overlooks when they drop the car believing low cog is the answer then wonder why they are no quicker - just feels quicker 'cause their lower to the ground.

The kinematics need to work, and when they do, a simple change in tyre pressure will be noticeable.

[Skillen]

Originally Posted by Mark S

what are you doing for rear brakes?

I don't know much about the mk1 dash, but the mk2 dash can be stripped right down to little more than the bare shell leaving the centre fix point and the sides, if you are putting race seats in - that usually sit lower, then its worth lowering the dash an inch or two so you can see over the clocks!
I did weigh a stripped one but I have forgotten how much it weighs, obviously not as light as a fibreglass copy - which is always an idea, but light enough not to be concerned too much about what it does weigh. (2.6kg is in my mind, but just a guess)

10 - 8's should be a good start point.

A real gain is sorting out the roll centre on the front, this will allow you to lower the car whilst maintaining correct scrub radius & contact pressure patch on the tyres.
This is what evrey one overlooks when they drop the car believing low cog is the answer then wonder why they are no quicker - just feels quicker 'cause their lower to the ground.

The kinematics need to work, and when they do, a simple change in tyre pressure will be noticeable.

when you say about sorting out the roll center is it an easy job to sort with easy to aquire pieces? or is it a case of really really knowing what you are doing (obviously this helps a huge amount with supseension geometry) and adjusting it because you understand how to.

I've just started reading into all this suspension jiggery pokery and its massively detailed and so far seems very easy to get wrong and ruin everything.

[sneekyparrot]

Originally Posted by Mark S

what are you doing for rear brakes?

I don't know much about the mk1 dash, but the mk2 dash can be stripped right down to little more than the bare shell leaving the centre fix point and the sides, if you are putting race seats in - that usually sit lower, then its worth lowering the dash an inch or two so you can see over the clocks!
I did weigh a stripped one but I have forgotten how much it weighs, obviously not as light as a fibreglass copy - which is always an idea, but light enough not to be concerned too much about what it does weigh. (2.6kg is in my mind, but just a guess)

10 - 8's should be a good start point.

A real gain is sorting out the roll centre on the front, this will allow you to lower the car whilst maintaining correct scrub radius & contact pressure patch on the tyres.
This is what evrey one overlooks when they drop the car believing low cog is the answer then wonder why they are no quicker - just feels quicker 'cause their lower to the ground.

The kinematics need to work, and when they do, a simple change in tyre pressure will be noticeable.

Hi mark,

Rears are just ebc race discs with matching pads / braided lines ATM. It's setup with bias control valve so should be able to tweek it. I may look at a rear upgrade if needed but not ATM.

It has full track / race uber light seats with a stack dash so will set everything inc dash to a comfortable heights.
Just thinking a stripped down mk1 dash may give it a little more original look ??

The suspension is fully adjustable ie camber/castor/toe/arbs/ ride height so I should be able to play with the setup once I get a feel for the car. Coming from 2 wheels its going to be a learning curve but its easier to adjust a bike than a car without all the gear. Looks like it will be a few hrs on a setup rig winding up and down the adjusters whilst making some markers some I can adjust it myself after that.

P.

[Mark S]

suspension geometry is very complex on these cars, the rear is dynamic - dynamic castor and toe, the front is a more straight forward double wishbone setup.

It is best left to people who really understand how to set these up, it is a great basis for a race car, very honda but the benefit of a longer wheelbase.

The roll centres are a well guarded secret, one I do not know myself, but if I did - as it is someone else's work, I wouldn't reveal all that time and effort on a public forum.

There are two people/companies I know of who could really set it up well, perhaps one better than the other, but they do charge well.
-when this knowledge is what is winning races (these guys set up race cars) they do tend to guard their knowledge.

One of these companies who I have used myself will give you a massive headache (brain ache as it is too much to take in) for days as they delve into suspension geometry at what they think is a basic level.
It's not something you will learn overnight.
All I can tell you is the roll centres are around 500 in parts, but intensive in the fitting and manipulation of parts - in the race series, you cannot alter pickup points, so I understand there is a lot of manipulation/strategic bending of parts to achieve the goal whilst keeping to regs.
It is this time (3 days?) that will cost the money.

I could have a good guess at what could be done in terms of parts, but I do not have the ability to draw up (the mathematical side) the suspension, scrub radius, roll centers, contact pressure etc etc, so it is far easier to pay the experts.

If the call is between roll centres and decent suspension with separate bump and rebound adjustment, it would likely be the suspension first.