Broken down....

[stamford]

A neat sales pitch but I'm not buying. If that were true then every engine manufacturer would fit such a device. In the years of car ownership I have lost very few engines. Any engine that has been rebuilt or stood for some time has always been primed first, removal of leads or fuel relays always did the trick. The slant four vauxhalls I rebuilt always were primed by removing the distributor and spinning the pump spindle using an adaptor and electric drill until the pressure built up.

Never filled the filters as oil is already in the system. Once the filter is screwed into place any remaining oil in the housing flows anyway. Pointless when a filter sits 90deg to the block in some cases.

[marts66]

Agreed, always span them up first without fuel or sparks to build up pressure. This always worked well. I heard, although this might not be true that good oil filters had a valve/device to stop oil draining out overnight or while parked up while cheaper ones didn't.

Had a mate that used to run RS2000s and always fitted a kill switch and span them up until the gauge showed pressure EVERY 'KIN TIME! Even after filling up, did my head in.

[Phate]

Update:

Well we are severely running low on things to bolt on. The car is certainly looking more car like (minues bonnet, bumper and lights) and we are looking to start her by 4 this afternoon

Only thing we are having problems with is the clutch slave cylinder. When fitting the master slave we pushed the clutch pedal a few things and now its gone solid. So we are trying to bleed/get it working.

Stay tuned!

[peterzs]

Best of luck, hope you sort out the clutch.

What clutch kit have you got, if you look at Micks post ref AA I think he is saying that the O/E set up is not bleedable as its a sealed unit. Maybe worth giving him a call.

[Phate]

I'm away from the yard until 3. And dad won't be back till 2ish. So hes going to carry on when he gets back and I'll get there for 3 to help him finish off.

[Phate]

And thanks Pete - Expect a text this afternoon

[stamford]

Originally Posted by Phate

Update:

Well we are severely running low on things to bolt on. The car is certainly looking more car like (minues bonnet, bumper and lights) and we are looking to start her by 4 this afternoon

Only thing we are having problems with is the clutch slave cylinder. When fitting the master slave we pushed the clutch pedal a few things and now its gone solid. So we are trying to bleed/get it working.

Stay tuned!

Correct me if I am wrong but if the slave required bleeding (if at all possible) then it would be because of a loose pedal and inability to change gear. A solid pedal would tell me that there is a mechanical block in the system. Disconnect the slave from the master, does the pushrod have any resistence? Can you push the clutch arm manually? Remove the slave from the gearbox, reconnect to master pipe, depress the pedal, does the pushrod actuate forward? When the pedal is returned can you push the slave pushrod back?

[Phate]

Well we can push the pedal down without any problems (feels like it should) but the slave cylinder just isn't pushing the clutch lever on the gearbox. It's very odd...

I'll give the above ago when we get back if Dad hasn't sorted it Thanks dude!

[Phate]

Just reread your post

Originally Posted by stamford

Disconnect the slave from the master, does the pushrod have any resistence?

Yes you can't push it down at all.

Can you push the clutch arm manually?

Yep, feels fine.

Remove the slave from the gearbox, reconnect to master pipe, depress the pedal, does the pushrod actuate forward?

No

When the pedal is returned can you push the slave pushrod back?

Nope, as mentioned above. It's solid.

[stamford]

Right, so the pedal isn't solid, is it softer than before? sounds like you have air in the system which will be hard to dispel. Try the master and slave separately by pushing against the rod, if it is soft then there is air present, if met with tough resistance then it is okay.