Any paint experts here?

[easytime]

Originally Posted by Bobdope2002

thats where ya problem lies my friend

in my experience of painting/recoating plastic things they have to be taken back to pretty much naff all then re plastic primered or failing that a good coat of etch primer

two different types of paint brand will clearly differ and the chemicals used in both may not like each other resulting in blistering and a reaction

Etch primer's for metal?

[Bobdope2002]

yep sorry just woke up still drunk

everything i said minus the etch primer bit

its happened to me when i used paint the bits on JCBS, if say a colleague had mixed the ratio say 2:1 and i say did it 3:1 and used a different chemical/harderner then the exact same thing would happen

I have a incling maybe this has happened here

[easytime]

Originally Posted by Bobdope2002

yep sorry just woke up still drunk

everything i said minus the etch primer bit

its happened to me when i used paint the bits on JCBS, if say a colleague had mixed the ratio say 2:1 and i say did it 3:1 and used a different chemical/harderner then the exact same thing would happen

I have a incling maybe this has happened here

The primer was on top of 2p2k clear which is pretty much inert to other chemicals. The primer did not react so it is safe to say that part went ok. The base coat did react that was on top of the primer so the celly had a reaction to the acrylic primer. I have found out that acrylic is not to be used below cellulose for this reason. I did have the bumper back to plastic for the first attempt, the bumper was trophy yellow, but I'm not doing that again as the bumper when stripped was in poor shape with regards to chips and scores. With the first attempt paint still on the bumper is perfectly flat now and an ideal start point. Also it is getting harder to get good paint stripper thanks to the EU.

[easytime]

The first stripper I got from a local motor factors was epic but the last tin he had, it was blistering the paint on contact! That ran out and I got some from home base, alcohol based it done f all really, I don't know why it is called paint remover. Then I got some from a decorating supplies place, that stuff was based on the first stuff I had but apparently it is watered down now due to EU regs. It worked like the first epic stuff but in slow motion, took 3 hours to blister the paint but did remove the paint given the time.
Thanks EU for making a 2 hour job a 3 day effort.

[Mark S]

you seem to have a spray gun and basic eqpt. Why don't you do it properly and buy some 2k primer, top fill will be fine, use a poly base coat and 2k laquar, forget rattle cans, there for the morons of society.

[easytime]

Originally Posted by Mark S

you seem to have a spray gun and basic eqpt. Why don't you do it properly and buy some 2k primer, top fill will be fine, use a poly base coat and 2k laquar, forget rattle cans, there for the morons of society.

only used rattle cans for the plastic primer, the base was celly and top will be 2p2k clear.

Got results today though, some images of before and today.








I am pleased with that.

[Mark S]

if you use 2k products, you will get an out the gun finish and shine, celly will need buffing - thats hard work!!!

[easytime]

Originally Posted by Mark S

if you use 2k products, you will get an out the gun finish and shine, celly will need buffing - thats hard work!!!

I am using a 2p2k clear coat, the base here is trophy blue pearl so it cant be buffed before clear, that satin finish is how it goes on.

[petet16]

It looks fine, once it's clear coated it should come up perfectly.

[petet16]

Originally Posted by Mark S

you seem to have a spray gun and basic eqpt. Why don't you do it properly and buy some 2k primer, top fill will be fine, use a poly base coat and 2k laquar, forget rattle cans, there for the morons of society.

You're certainly emphatic in your opinions, I feel such a moron now