Smokey's theMGZS.co.uk Track Car *LIVERY DELIVERED* - Page 6

Smokey · 22-10-10, 01:49 PM

Well, bucket seats arrived today! Although a wee bit tighter than I thought they would be so will need to test it out Kev... I get in but is only tight around the hips.

Have also removed the rear seats and passenger seat in between the rain but don't have the correct tool to remove the subframes.

Would I be right in saying its not possible to change where the subframe bolts in to by drilling into the floor?

Oh and can someone find me XPower green 3 point harnesses? I cant find any! Only red/blue/black/silver

stamford · 22-10-10, 02:53 PM

I would recommend using the existing fixing points and use the seat runners off the old seats. However, what is the seat mounting type you have bought, flat bottom or side?

Smokey · 22-10-10, 03:12 PM

I'm not sure of the difference. The bottom has 4 points for the bolts. It's not a solid flat base though, you can feel the springs through the material.

stamford · 22-10-10, 07:17 PM

So you will be needing 2 off strips of mild steel which bolt to the bottom of the seat, these inturn will need to drilled and bolted to the OE runners. If I was closer to you I would do this for you.

Smokey · 22-10-10, 08:06 PM

Yeah this is what I figured, cheers for the offer wish I was closer!

stamford · 22-10-10, 08:40 PM

I would say it is easy to do, but not everyone has access to the right tools.

All you need to do is:

Measure the runner pitch before removing from car.
Strip OE seat so you end up with both floor mounted runners. Beware as the adjuster will let go due to the spring.
Remove all unnecesary metalwork, even the brackets for the seatbelts if these are not to be re-used.
Get 2 off strips of mild steel flat bar, 30x6mm x length enough to go across the runner pitch width flush to outside.
Mark out and position the seat fixing holes central, drill to suit, if M8 fixings drill dia 9mm.
Lay both flat bar lengths across the runners, check for fixings that could be used. You may need to remove some studding as they might not be long enough to bolt through. Replace with longer bolts and ideally nyloc nuts. If replacing bolts in the runner use hex socket head cap screws.
When you are happy with the positioning of the seat and mounting strips, mark out and drill clearance holes. Make sure the pitch is correct first.
Once done deburr the holes and offer up to car, check position and adjust if necessary, you can always open the hole up a bit if you are slightly out.
Then if all's good paint them up and tighten the joint ups when dry and fit to floor.
The seat can still be adjusted for front/back by pushing the sprung loaded latches down on each runner, this was used from the OE seat mechanism, it's only the through rod that's missing.

Would be wise to wear safety glasses when drilling, a drop of WD40 to aid cutting, a vice is also a useful tool or a ?10 workmate from Wilko will do fine

Oh and a decent tape measure.