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Old 27-01-10, 06:16 PM   #21
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A bit drastic moving to Crawley, my boss lives 5 minutes walk from Brighton pier and drives in every day, it only takes 25 minutes.

One of my neices works for virgin in aeronautical engineering, she's very happy there.
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Old 27-01-10, 06:42 PM   #22
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Originally Posted by Kara View Post
Also any idea why the engine management light is staying on and I'm getting a weird intermitent high pitched squeaking noise when I'm driving along normally. Any advice would be great!
I'm getting a high pitch squeak every now-and-then also! A friend of mine who works for Kwik-Fit has had a look and told me that the break pads have something that he called a 'squeal bar'. It's basically a bar built into the brake pads so that when they get low'ish they give of a squeal to let you know! So if i were you i'd get the brakes checked! I've just bought a set of rear brake pads for £13, not a named set but they'll do me for now!!
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Old 27-01-10, 07:22 PM   #23
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yeah sounds like new break pads, also check the rear ones as the calipers have a habit of seizing. Like i found out when mine wore down to the metal and was wearing my disk away. Replaced the pads and discs unseized the caliper. Month down the line half a pad gone. Unseized and cleaned said caliper for it to do the same again so bit the bullet and bought a recon caliper of flea bay. Touch wood all is still well
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Old 27-01-10, 09:31 PM   #24
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The noise you hear is not the front or rear brakes as they have an "acoustic wear indicator" this is a little metal tang that rubs agaisnt the disc causing a noise, IIRC the high pitched squeal is the ECU relay, it stays energised for a period after the ignition is switched off before shutting down, and will do this while the engine is on, if you ask any Mk2 ZR105 owner they do the same, the 180's dont do this!
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Old 27-01-10, 09:47 PM   #25
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so many things will bring lights on, the engtine management covers a lot of sensors all over the place, it may have been a fautl in the past thats no lonbger present, if it comes up with a sensor, it isnt necisarrily the sensor thats at fault, it could be in that circuit like a break in the wire, or nothing to do with it at all, sometimes o2 sesors will come on when the cars been overfuelling ect, i have changed a couple on the k4, what id advoise ya do straight away is bent the bracket down that the wiring loom sits on where it goes into the ecu at the bulkhead, in the engine bay, it chaffs here n holds things on like injectors ect, then get some electrical tape round it!
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Old 27-01-10, 09:50 PM   #26
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and yeah what kev said, youll hear it shut down after a minute or two, its still monitoring the system then, fan will still kick in if ya disconnected the temp sensor ect! just making sure everythings nice before it goes to sleep
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Old 27-01-10, 10:08 PM   #27
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Thanks babe, wasnt saying it so you would offer, but thats cool.

I might take you up on that so let me know when you can! Where abouts you moving too?

If you need any help and i can assist, just say. Have a trailer and towbar if needed.
Aww thanks mate... I'm actually ok for the move as a mate of mine (Paul - I think you've met him) is helping out with his freelander so got lots of space!

As soon as the discount becomes available I'll pop you a PM, I'm more than happy to spread the love!

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Originally Posted by Dan1971 View Post
When I fitted a decat my light came on .... Not got a decat already by any chance .... ?
Nope no decat however my friend has now found the problem using his very posh diagnostics kit... apparently the rear O2 sensor isn't giving out any readings so looks like I need a new one!

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Originally Posted by talkingcars View Post
A bit drastic moving to Crawley, my boss lives 5 minutes walk from Brighton pier and drives in every day, it only takes 25 minutes.

One of my neices works for virgin in aeronautical engineering, she's very happy there.
Tbh mate because we're both working there and my other half can't drive it makes sense to be within a decent commuting length via car & bus. We've found a lovely penthouse in Horley which is a 10min drive or 25mins on the bus so it works out perfectly. I can see why if only one of us got a job there it would make sense to stay put but with us both working there we might as well move. Plus I am soooooo bored of Newhaven! It's soooo dead!

Quote:
Originally Posted by SheppeyDuo View Post
I'm getting a high pitch squeak every now-and-then also! A friend of mine who works for Kwik-Fit has had a look and told me that the break pads have something that he called a 'squeal bar'. It's basically a bar built into the brake pads so that when they get low'ish they give of a squeal to let you know! So if i were you i'd get the brakes checked! I've just bought a set of rear brake pads for £13, not a named set but they'll do me for now!!
Ah thanks for the tip hun! Sounds like a real possibility as the sound is definitely from the rear. The only other thing I can think is that the breaks had seized before the car was delivered to me so could it be them binding???

Quote:
Originally Posted by RudeDogg1 View Post
yeah sounds like new break pads, also check the rear ones as the calipers have a habit of seizing. Like i found out when mine wore down to the metal and was wearing my disk away. Replaced the pads and discs unseized the caliper. Month down the line half a pad gone. Unseized and cleaned said caliper for it to do the same again so bit the bullet and bought a recon caliper of flea bay. Touch wood all is still well
Thanks hunnie will check the calipers asap! If they've already seized once could be they're gonna do what yours did until I replace them.

Quote:
Originally Posted by KevG View Post
The noise you hear is not the front or rear brakes as they have an "acoustic wear indicator" this is a little metal tang that rubs agaisnt the disc causing a noise, IIRC the high pitched squeal is the ECU relay, it stays energised for a period after the ignition is switched off before shutting down, and will do this while the engine is on, if you ask any Mk2 ZR105 owner they do the same, the 180's dont do this!
Thanks Kev! Yup my mate said that apparently the continuous high pitched squeal is the ECU and nothing to worry about. At least that's one problem sorted! It's just weird as it's actually quite loud!

Quote:
Originally Posted by ritchyp View Post
so many things will bring lights on, the engtine management covers a lot of sensors all over the place, it may have been a fautl in the past thats no lonbger present, if it comes up with a sensor, it isnt necisarrily the sensor thats at fault, it could be in that circuit like a break in the wire, or nothing to do with it at all, sometimes o2 sesors will come on when the cars been overfuelling ect, i have changed a couple on the k4, what id advoise ya do straight away is bent the bracket down that the wiring loom sits on where it goes into the ecu at the bulkhead, in the engine bay, it chaffs here n holds things on like injectors ect, then get some electrical tape round it!
Quote:
Originally Posted by ritchyp View Post
and yeah what kev said, youll hear it shut down after a minute or two, its still monitoring the system then, fan will still kick in if ya disconnected the temp sensor ect! just making sure everythings nice before it goes to sleep
Thanks Ritchy! You've been very helpful. Now I know it's the O2 sensor I'll see if I can pick up one and get it fitted soon. Also the exhaust is definitely blowing... looks like it's coming from the join so I'm definitely gonna need a new sports exhaust!
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Old 27-01-10, 10:14 PM   #28
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where in the exhaust is it blowing, if its the joint you should be able to get it welded, but they are common for rusting, id try clearing the code n seeing how long it takes to come back on or get it on a proper scanner n watch the upstream n downstream switching n making the right patterns on the scope, or just change it, id put a little copper slip on the new ones threads so its easy to get out next time
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Old 27-01-10, 10:29 PM   #29
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Originally Posted by ritchyp View Post
where in the exhaust is it blowing, if its the joint you should be able to get it welded, but they are common for rusting, id try clearing the code n seeing how long it takes to come back on or get it on a proper scanner n watch the upstream n downstream switching n making the right patterns on the scope, or just change it, id put a little copper slip on the new ones threads so its easy to get out next time
Thanks Ritchy! We tried clearing it and it didn't come back on but that being said I haven't taken Stevie for a drive since clearing it.
I'm pretty sure it is the join where it's blowing, but if anyone asks the whole exhaust is falling off and needs to be replaced with a stainless steel one immediately!
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Old 27-01-10, 10:33 PM   #30
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lol, what joint theres like loads down the whole system:P might be better to get a custom one made then yeah can have it however loud/ quiet ya wnt, n stainless wont rust!, water has a habit for sitting in the exhaust so heat and water arent a good mix if yer wanting to avoid rust
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