Took the zed for a spirited drive.......... - Page 2

stamford · 06-04-10, 11:07 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by StragglaSteve

so with regards to stripping out the car, it didnt effect your chassis stiffness without a roll-cage put in?

only asking as im soon to be doing this. looking to take out the rear seats/seat mounting bars. along with the rear seatbelts and the bar they are mounted in which runs along the parcel shelf.

this should leave the whole back end open and i assumed it would effect the stiffness?

or did you not remove those bars?

I have removed all the above, left the bolt in side fabs, you'll see when you remove the rear seats. Chassis stiffness is not affected by any of this, just soundproofing! Suspension braces inner and outer will improve the rear end stiffness. Roll cage will indeed stiffen the whole car up as long as it is fitted well and uses the 'A' pillar plates. You can improve this further still if you project the front and rear cage to the suspension turrets.

When I built my V8 Chevette, this was a semi-space frame design as I removed the whole front end including the bulkhead and tunnel leaving the front crossmember. I projected the front cage through the new bulkhead to include front suspension mounts. That stiffened it up nicely, the rear end was turreted as it was modified to group 4 HS spec.

StragglaSteve · 06-04-10, 11:17 AM

Aha! this is good to know! i wasnt looking to increase the stiffness, just maintain the current stiffness

but if removing these parts wont effect that then i wont be looking for a roll-cage

might be tempted by some Suspension braces though!

its funny how you notice even the smallest of weight saved! i dont know how much i will be saving with removing the rear seats and seatbelts etc... but i got about 35kg out of the car by removing the spare wheel, sub box, amp and some random junk and that was already noticable!

p_b82 · 06-04-10, 11:43 AM

sounds good... wish i could go for a spirted drive atm

Maxfly · 08-04-10, 09:21 PM

So if you remove the air-con, obviously all pipework and compressor etc goes which i am sure will be a nice wee saving in itself but after losing the compressor do you make up a 'dummy' pully so original drive belt size suffices or do you just get a different sized belt thats shorter to take into account the missing ancillarie? I guess all you would need just a blanking plate for where comp used to sit?

stamford · 08-04-10, 09:38 PM

This I need to check out and do the easiest option.

p_b82 · 09-04-10, 04:42 PM

think you an just get the non ac belt that your swap once you remove the AC\ pully.... matt asked repeately to take my A\c out so he could fit the FMIC that bit easier.... i refused to let him

StragglaSteve · 09-04-10, 07:05 PM

would love to take my AC out!...

if anyone knows how and wants some AC for theirs.. please feel free to come and help yourself to it

lol

stamford · 09-04-10, 07:41 PM

I've hardly used mine in the 5 years I have had the car, so it won't be missed!

Supercharged_Z · 09-04-10, 10:13 PM

cant take it off, i think the engine mount or some casing gets in the way to not have the belt there, there were also no AC models. ideas iv seen are too gut the air con pump and just have the pully. its not actualy that heavy, neither is much of the air con stuff but it all adds up

Jay-ZS+ · 09-04-10, 10:33 PM

I'd be interested in moving the battery as a load of audio cabling left over from the 120's boot. Any weight removed from the front has got to be worth while.