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Old 18-10-15, 11:58 AM   #1
talkingcars
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Still to wire up the horns, I want to change the relys in the BCU first.

More recently I haven't used FE54 much as I have been having problems with the battery draining, I'd jump it off one of the other cars or the starter pack and run it a bit to put some charge in the battery. Come the morning there wouldn't be enough oompah to get her going.

A couple of weeks ago I took the battery off and gave it a recondition which went as it should so the battery appeared to be ok.

My assumption was that there was a battery drain somewhere so I decided to sort it out, again I took the battery off and gave it a 2amp charge up to 14.4v. Before I put it back in the car the following morning I rechecked the voltage - 12.2v!

Guess it's new battery time......
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Old 18-10-15, 12:14 PM   #2
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Just had to replace the battery in mine too, had a Yuasa on it and it's died after a year! I've replaced with a larger one now to help cold starting but it barely fits in the tray area so I guess a battery to boot conversion is needed!
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Old 18-10-15, 12:16 PM   #3
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Nice build thread, I'd recommend a Bosch S4 battery. better cold crank. Got one on my Escort and fires up straight away now even if it's been sat a couple of weeks.
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Old 18-10-15, 12:27 PM   #4
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I have a Halfords but I think it is out of warranty, it was a replaced under warranty anyway.

I have been looking at diesel ones, they are £54 from eurocarparts against £45 for O/E spec for thsseir cheap ones.
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Old 18-10-15, 01:16 PM   #5
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I've got a 75 diesel battery, but it won't fit if you still have the standard battery tray in the engine bay
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Old 08-02-16, 10:20 PM   #6
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I have a Halfords but I think it is out of warranty, it was a replaced under warranty anyway.

I have been looking at diesel ones, they are £54 from eurocarparts against £45 for O/E spec for thsseir cheap ones.
The warranty runs out on the Halfords battery on the 22nd of Feb BUT when I checked the voltage on it yesterday it is the same voltage (measured to two decimal places) as it was in October.

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I've got a 75 diesel battery, but it won't fit if you still have the standard battery tray in the engine bay
I got the diesel one, as the battery is now in the boot the extra length is not a problem (except where one places it on top of the number plate lead - http://www.themgzs.co.uk/vb/showthread.php?t=30482) - the car now starts better as I'd hope.
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Old 08-02-16, 10:45 PM   #7
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I've been a bit busy recently with bits and pieces.

With the MOT coming up at the start of February I decided to go for an early one before Christmas to give me the long break to fix any problems. and there were some -

1) Leak from exhaust post cat - replaced the gasket and bolts for a tighter fit.
2) Loose exhaust - refitted or replaced rubber hangers.
3) Rust perforation under drivers footwell - was a pin ***** hole so was easy to sort.
4) Rust on engine subframe - not even sure what this means.
5) No horn - sorted - http://www.themgzs.co.uk/vb/showthread.php?t=30442

There were also advisories for
1) Damaged wiring for post cat O2 sensor - have done a cover up on this for the time being
2) Cloudy head lights - Maguire's headlight stuff made an improvement.
3) Rust under passenger footwell - will sort when the weather is better.
4) Discs and pads worn but not to excess
5) Tape on rear wing covering damage..................it came like that honest.

Unfortunately the weather hasn't been as good as I hoped so I only managed to finish the above yesterday - car is booked in on Wednesday and if she passes she'll get the new discs and pads.
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Old 15-02-16, 09:55 PM   #8
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So yesterday Mrs TC wanted to go out for a romantic walk around one of the local historic towns and we ended up in Arundel.

After a couple of hours we returned to FE54 see wouldn't start, happily turned over but no start.

I checked the codes on the scan gauge, P0138 and P0141 which refer to the broken wiring on the rear O2 sensor and P0340 - cam sensor!

I had this 18 months ago when it transpired the wiring for the rear exhaust manifold O2 sensor had been damaged on the exhaust. I checked the three engine management fuses in the engine bay fuse box, sure enough one had blown.

I took out the one for the hazard lights and popped it in the slot and the car started. As we drove down the road with me apologising for not going on somewhere for a meal I demonstrated what I had done by switching on the hazard lights. Um, they worked.

Then I realised the radio and the clock weren't working..............ops, wrong fuse.

Watching the scan gauge as I drove showed that the engine management fuse had gone again (car was running open loop as it had no O2 info), just as well it will still run without a camshaft signal, just wont start.

We got home as it got dark so I grabbed a torch and peaked down the back of the engine and sure enough the O2 sensor was resting on the exhaust manifold. I reached down (watch that hot manifold) and pulled the wiring up and away from the exhaust, replaced the fuse and she's been fine today (6 starts and running closed loop).

Last weekend when I tided up the wiring for the rear sensor I tucked the offending wiring into a spare clip, that was a mistake.
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Old 15-02-16, 10:00 PM   #9
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And an update to the MOT situation - pass with advisories for front pads and discs on limit and a broken mount on the cat - I didn't need an excuse to put the decat back on or some better discs.
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Old 03-10-16, 09:10 PM   #10
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And an update to the MOT situation - pass with advisories for front pads and discs on limit and a broken mount on the cat - I didn't need an excuse to put the decat back on or some better discs.
So last week I replaced the discs and pads, the discs came off GU51 when I first had her and fitted groved discs, the pads are EBC yellowstuff - fuel consumption has gone up as braking distances have reduced
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