passenger compartment fusebox (electric rear windows)

[MO-MO]

i just spliced into the positive feed for the passenger side window.

electric rear windows for 40quid all in

[afcbadam]

was there much work involved. can you list the parts that you needed aswell please mate as i want to do this to mine and alot of others are to attempt it. it would be much help to us all.

[MO-MO]

Originally Posted by afcbadam

was there much work involved. can you list the parts that you needed as well please mate as i want to do this to mine and a lot of others are to attempt it. it would be much help to us all.

Sure mate. first of all you can check you're car to see if your going to be in for an easy job or a bit of a long one. Two ways you can do it, take off the bottom part of the B-pillar and if you have two cables leaving the pillar going into the rear door, its going to be more work. If you find five cables your in luck! You're car already has the wiring. The other way to check is by looking under your armrest, if you find a brown plug you're in luck, otherwise bit more work!

If you find that the wiring is already present in your car by either finding the brown plug or the five cables behind the B-pillar. all you will need are the motors and switches.

-A motor for each door (mandatory)
-Switch for each door (mandatory)
-Switches in the armrest (manditory)
-Door looms (if found that you don't already have them i.e only 2 wires coming from read doors)
-Body looms (if brown plug isn't found under armrest)

Well i got two full rear doors from a guy that was breaking their car. From the doors i took a motor and the door loom from each side obviously.Each door also had a switch to open/close the window. Then a trip to the scrappy...now after your checks on your car, if you didn't find a brown plug or only found two cables leaving the B-pillar going to the rear doors you will need the body looms. You will find these starting at the B-pillars.

passenger side going down the pillar, under the carpet, under the passenger seat, then up to the armrest.(some wires will stop there as they connect to the switches in the armrest, and some will continue over to the driver side)
driver sideagain starting at the B-pillar, going down then under the drivers seat to the armrest to connect to the switches in the armrest. There will be wires that join are taped up with the wires that came straight from the passenger side these wires are the positive feeds and lead up the drivers side, up past the bonnet release catch to the passenger compartment fuse box (god only knows why its on the drivers side)

You will also need the four switches that are in the armrest.

Now while in the scrapyard i took off the armrest and B-pillar covers. and simply pulled at the looms. but to wire your car up your going to have to take your seats out so you can lay your looms under the carpet.

-Whenever im working with wiring i always disconnect the battery.
-All you do is fit the motors into your doors, replace the door loom with your 'new' one. There will be two wires for your central locking (i think) which can just be spliced into the 'new' door loom.
-Fit you 'new' body loom exactly as you took it out of the car at the scrapyard.
-Take the positive feeds from both switches and connect to the passenger compartment fuse box.
-Find suitable earthing point.
-Job done

i might get shouted at for this, but i just spliced both my left rear and right rear positive feeds into the passenger positive feed that was already there (i already had front electric windows). The reason being...i couldn't pull the fuse box out and i believe it is still safe as it is in fact still fused.

i have wiring diagrams from a good guy from another forum so if you would like to have a look at them pm me.

hope this helps some people!

[markyzs180]

Originally Posted by vinny1979

lol , ideally no but its a feed, would need to fuse it up, i mean ideally a switched live straight from batt but .............

WE NEED POWER

phew, thats ok then and by the looks of momo's finishing post he realised that too......just had some mad thoughts of his head unit popping like bonfire night every time the kids hit the rear window switch lol

[MO-MO]

Originally Posted by markyzs180

phew, thats ok then and by the looks of momo's finishing post he realised that too......just had some mad thoughts of his head unit popping like bonfire night every time the kids hit the rear window switch lol

lol yea i had though that too! you think connecting my two rear positive feeds to the already existing passenger positive feed will be ok!?

[vinny1979]

maybe up the fuse if it pops, say from 20 to 25

[markyzs180]

Originally Posted by MO-MO

lol yea i had though that too! you think connecting my two rear positive feeds to the already existing passenger positive feed will be ok!?

Should be ok.......might have a prob if you use them all at the same time as it will pull quite a big load, but hey, how often will that happen? you could always drop an inline fuse (easily accessible!) at a lower rating than the fronts, or put a relay on them........see how it goes...

[MO-MO]

Originally Posted by vinny1979

maybe up the fuse if it pops, say from 20 to 25

thanks mate

Originally Posted by markyzs180

Should be ok.......might have a prob if you use them all at the same time as it will pull quite a big load, but hey, how often will that happen? you could always drop an inline fuse (easily accessible!) at a lower rating than the fronts, or put a relay on them........see how it goes...

i think the idea of an in-line fuse is the most obvious. don't no why i didn't think of that!
cheers mate:smartass

[markyzs180]

drop a 10/15 on an in-line, don't up the fuse for the fronts in the fusebox or you may end up frazzled! pity you couldn't check put the fusebox, chances are it would have been wired for the rears then you could have just run the positives from there and fused it, maybe worth checking out in the future...