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Old 26-08-19, 05:07 PM   #41
LukeZS96
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If the rest of the bolts came out easy and you have access to a small air grinder or can get access with a hacksaw possibly cut slots in the bolts and use a flathead screwdriver or even an impact driver with a flat head bit to remove the bolts?
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Old 26-08-19, 07:57 PM   #42
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The fix for that sort of thing I see in car shows, is to weld a bolt onto the difficult part, then undo the bolt.

No idea if that'd be any good for you though ...
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Old 26-08-19, 08:51 PM   #43
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I remembered I had a very obscure Nut extractor set, I purchased it years back for removing a locking wheel nut but it turned out it was not suitable, so I promptly "put it away" and forgot about it.

When I had remembered, then found it again I hammered the correct size on the bolt and used a normal socket to remove the bolt from the car

Anyway, got really far into the rebuild to find the pistons and rods are good, removed one piston and went to install the forged ones I have, to find they are 85mm pistons, not 84.45mm as were sold to me (84.45 is std size, in case anyone needed clarification). Upshot is they don't fit unless I re-bore!

cleaned the Mahle pistons up and refitted for now, then ran out of light so tidied up for the night!

So now I have a set of 85mm Wossner forged pistons on PEC rods, that I can't fit to my car... Will have to think of my next move over the next few days.
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Old 26-08-19, 10:41 PM   #44
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At a loss as to why hex socket head shoulder bolts have been used. They are hardened bolts and would need grinding. I would go for a rebore if possible.
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Old 28-08-19, 10:41 PM   #45
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Good to see progress.

The TF that donated it's subframes to my F came from near Bordon.
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Old 07-12-19, 12:36 PM   #46
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I don't think those bolts are std for the sump.


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Old 07-12-19, 08:23 PM   #47
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I don't think those bolts are std for the sump.


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Defiantly not, the standard bolts are regular hex bolts.
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Old 02-03-20, 11:55 AM   #48
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Finally got the engine back together this weekend and topped up all fluids.

Car initially fired up with a very obvious missfire, turns out one of the HT leads was not pushed in firmly enough.

Once that was sorted the engine runs, but not as smooth as I would like... There is a very slight lumpiness to the engine and it seems to threaten to stall every now and then.

Since this appears to be the Mems 1.6 ECU (Dizzy engine from a 420 Turbo) I can't just put it on my normal Diagnostics.

To this end, does anyone, localish to Bordon, have a T4 or PScan or another Diagnostics that will connect to the Rover 3-pin plug on the ECU so I can check all the sensors etc? I am hoping that will tell me, or at least guide me, to the root of the "something is not quite right".
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Old 02-03-20, 05:03 PM   #49
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Smile

well done for getting where you are at now.

hope it is just a sensor or bit of adjustment.

would a rolling road point you in the right direction???

found these https://www.bteautomotive.co.uk/DIAGNOSTICS don't know if they could help.

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Old 02-03-20, 10:05 PM   #50
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I'd happily bring my pscan over but I don't have the MEMS 1.6 lead.
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