tuned derv ZS update - Page 31

p_b82 · 07-08-17, 03:04 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Supercharged_Z

great news

sounds time consuming still though

Yup - and to add to the news, it has started and tootled round a car-park today without failing to stop afterwards

..... so MOT is going to be scheduled when they can fit it in... one tyre seems to be a bit suspect....

Re the list...

the manifold, downpipe, turbo and drain (I think) is all in the back of the car... so it just needs bolting on, and a feed sorted.....

(Ideally I'd like the EGT probe currently in the existing EGR blanking plate to be fitted too, but that might not be an option due to the way the manifold has been made)

The turbo can be set to "hard stop" before the VNT controller is plumbed in - it'll then just act as a fixed vane unit would... (still can't work out why Matt refused to do this for me but there we go)

the injectors/mapping I'll do once the turbo's been on a bit and I've made sure there are no issues with the long layup....

Time-wise, I'm aiming to get it done by year end....

p_b82 · 14-08-17, 04:46 PM

The ZS has an MOT!

it failed last week on first attempt, for one thing only...... dodgy handbrake, no advisories; passed on the re-test....

I was gobsmacked it was so little given how long it has been sat unmoving...

stamford · 14-08-17, 08:52 PM

Nice to hear something positive, makes it so much sweeter.

redzed · 15-08-17, 11:13 PM

Great news!

p_b82 · 20-08-17, 05:04 PM

Well the ZS is back on my driveway... and after a brief stop on the way way home (scanguage told me temps were 20c higher than they should be) I realised I ad a coolant leak....

Thankfully the bottle on the backseat was there for these very reasons!

Looks like it is an external leak, and the pipework at the front of the engine bay is at fault.... probably perished.. so either try and source a set, or replace with heavy duty silicone stuff like I did the metal coolant rails at the back...

Once that's sorted, a trip oop north to get the turbo on & the controller......

Have to say it was really good to get behind the wheel and drive it again - even if it is all kinds of slow compared to what I'm used to; it is however much much better mannered in the wet!

peterzs · 20-08-17, 07:16 PM

we took the grandkids up to Halifax for a holiday, on the first day going into York to visit the Railway Museum, temp suddenly shot up. Called the RAC and he put a pressure tester on it. I noticed small bubbles coming out of the crimped over seal on the header tank.

He put some rad seal stuff in and it seemed to stop the leak. Went up to the Lakes and water started going down, so I bought some K-seal and stuck that in. Again seemed to stop it. We then went twice into Blackpool, to the front and the Zoo. Bought two more bottles of the K-seal stuff, stuck one bottle in.

On the way back home I put another bottle is as it had started to lose water. Visited all the services on the M62, M1, M6 on the way back down!! Decided that it was too risky to go on where we might get onto a motorway with no hard shoulder, so stopped in a parking bay on the A46.

Good old RAC got to us quickly and I thought it would be a tow, as the water was now coming out under pressure. RAC guy , cleaned the area and put a epoxy resin putty stuff along the radiator header seal.

Amazed it worked and seems to be holding up and levels are OK and not moving. Time to decide if it will last, or a new rad!!

talkingcars · 20-08-17, 09:47 PM

When I re-plumbed the T16 in the Maestro I used various sizes of copper central heating pipe with Yorkshire fittings, although she isn't run much at the moment they are still holding up more than ten years later.

p_b82 · 20-08-17, 09:48 PM

I think it is the pipework in the front of the engine bay, there was lots of coolant all down that area, and splashes over the oil filter....

I don't think we can get replacement hose anymore, or if I can it is the whole lot... so will have to look at options..... it won't be as simple a a clip I doubt, but who knows lol

still its nice tgo know that you can mostly run an L-series on air..... was probably only 1L left in the system before i topped it up, and temps were only peaking at 112c - the gage hadn't moved for the normal position by that point either!

Peter,

If I were you I'd flush the system and get a new rad.... best to be safe rather than sorry, or one time you head out you will need that tow truck!

peterzs · 21-08-17, 11:21 AM

There is a top hose under one of the boost pipes, center of the engine, they rub against each other and the water top hose goes.

Replaced my one, but as you say it was part of a number of hoses, Rimmers, but I'm sure you could get a match just for the L shape pipework.

p_b82 · 21-08-17, 05:27 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by peterzs

There is a top hose under one of the boost pipes, center of the engine, they rub against each other and the water top hose goes.

Replaced my one, but as you say it was part of a number of hoses, Rimmers, but I'm sure you could get a match just for the L shape pipework.

It's the same piece that needs to be changed, it is the plastic Y join that is no longer water-tight, but all the pipes are in bad condition where they have rubbed over other stuff... so ordered the replacement....

Also discovered that when the car was hit while at the farm, the wheel arch is now rubbing on the right side under compression... so need to get the bumper off and get it re-seated better...

Ah well - have to say, it is nice to be tinkering again, even if it is "hassle" to do so!