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Old 17-10-12, 04:07 PM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jayzs View Post
Mazda 6MPS is a dam good car to drive but they are Mondeos at the end of the day, 2.3 engines can suffer with piston ring issues...
Didnt know that. I guess its just easy to assume anything Jap will be bullet proof, still a really good looking car though. Even the Mazda 3 MPZ would do me.
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Old 17-10-12, 04:58 PM   #12
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Problem is its not jap...its a ford... 2ltr mondeo zetec bored out and a turbo stuck on it... good looking car tho... and nice to drive...
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Old 17-10-12, 05:06 PM   #13
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The BMW I would avoid...they can be absolute money pits to be honest.

There are plenty of options available...

Mondeo, Saabs, Focus, Skoda Octavia, Seat Ibiza (always had a soft spot for these)

Absolutely loads about...more requrements needed.

Does he want performance, handling, comfort, mpg's.

Average mileage?
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Old 17-10-12, 05:16 PM   #14
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Mps is nothing like a mondeo,

Mps has issues with the timing chain rattling which is usually caused be lack of servicing, 4wd also so you can have transfer box problems on them and it isnt that easy a box to to get out
Mazda parts are really pricey too, poorly undersealed so id be checking carefully for corrosion, quite bad for front wheel bearings, and can be a nightmare to get stuff to bits because of the corrosion.
Genuine mazda brakes are fairly poor grade of metal so corrode quite badly. Il give you the low down on the rx8 when i get on my computer and mondeo diesels
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Old 17-10-12, 05:24 PM   #15
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Yeah he wants a sporty car that's comfy on long journeys and has decent rear leg room with average miles as he plans to keep it for around 3 years
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Old 17-10-12, 05:42 PM   #16
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Mondeo st 2.2 or 220 best car for the money in fact get one for less than 3.5k
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Old 17-10-12, 05:55 PM   #17
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rx8 problems:
rotor tips sticking, if the car isnt driven hard at least once a week the rotor tips can end up sticking causing poor compression, they are designed to be redlined
rotor tips wearing out: dependant on mileage the tips wear and basically new engine time
get two power models, high power and low power, high power has the 6 speed box in it, has different manifod and ports on the engine
prone for coils failing, 4 of them
prone for h.t. leads failing
prone for plugs cracking due to being exposed at the side of the engine all causing misfires, theres 2 plugs per rotor, leading and trailing, pretty pricey
cats can be common for needing replaced due to misfires
the engine is designed to burn oil so need to keep an eye on the level, uses dexelia, fully synthetic 5/30 oil
sumps are prone for going porous, not a huge job butworth checking cost of parts
theres an uprated starter motor out for them if its got poor starting
dont like doing short journeys as they are prone to flooding the engine, if this happens best way to get them going is to tow start that, failing that, plugs out and cleaned, eccentric shaft sensor disconnected and spun over, then re-assembeled, dont start with your foot on the throttle
prone for both n/s and o/s engine mounts failing, youll feel a vibration through the car if this happens
the oil cooler pipes had a recall for corrosion, but even the uprated ones have been seen to leak
coolant level sensor in the expansion tank going faulty
if it has xenons the level sensors on the suspension are prone to failing bringing the light on the dash, pricey part to replace,
xenon units themselfs are £2000 each iirc
rear lamp gaskets prone to leaking causing the lamps to fill up with water
alloys prone to corrosion and bubbling
arb links splitting
the wiring looms going to the bootlid can short out sometimes for the high level brake lamp blowing the fuse and bringing the engine management light on
terrible mpg, most the time its in the teens
expensive road tax due to the high emmisions
discs corroding if they are genuine items
if your taking the engine out the pcm bolts are a pain to get out and the steering couplers usually seized on
if the numberplate plinths loose or broken, theyre bolted from the back which reqs a wee strip to get at
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Old 17-10-12, 05:59 PM   #18
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mondeo diesel,
pretty common for the dual mass flywheel for failing and knocking, if its ignored the metal shaving fill up and the car wont start, look at about 5.5hours labour to replace this as the subframe needs dropped
injection system can be prone to failing,
egr valve seizing and this can cause poor starting
auxilary bekt tensioner being noisy
rear subframe bushes splitting
rear wheel bearings
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Old 17-10-12, 06:02 PM   #19
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Ritchy View Post
mondeo diesel,
pretty common for the dual mass flywheel for failing and knocking, if its ignored the metal shaving fill up and the car wont start, look at about 5.5hours labour to replace this as the subframe needs dropped
injection system can be prone to failing,
egr valve seizing and this can cause poor starting
auxilary tensioner being noisy
rear subframe bushes splitting
rear wheel bearings
You can write a list for any car mate there would be a bigger list than that for a zs
every car has faults its just a case of finding a good one.
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Old 17-10-12, 06:11 PM   #20
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Who need's Edd China. We've got Ritchy
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