mk 2 120 info - Page 2

lawrence-zs180 · 05-05-11, 02:37 PM

lol nice idea but at the min I'm mainly just looking to do a few small mods just to make it sound better more than anything.. not up for massive power or I would be keeping the 180 and the more modding I did would ****** the whole 'better mpg' thing im after haha

lawrence-zs180 · 05-05-11, 02:43 PM

he's not a proper trader so hopefully he wont try and bend me over to much lol... got 5 mins free this arvo so chilling out.

jamesc777 · 05-05-11, 02:49 PM

good luck, so whats the one you have seen like then, dont give too many etails so no-one beats u too it!!

lawrence-zs180 · 05-05-11, 03:03 PM

its a MK2 xpg 120 with the full 180 kit... inc alloys, she looks nice on 50k and with a full service history

Jay-ZS+ · 05-05-11, 04:21 PM

Id take it out for a drive mate see what you make of the 120, it will feel slow compared to the 180 and needs to be reved to get power out of it.

As for exhaust Id go for just a cat back, I decatted mine and fitted vvc inlet and exhaust manifolds but im sure it just pulled more fuel through it. Used to pop lots and set of car alarms as I passed though

No vis issues or clutch issues like the KV6 which is a bonus. Although I dont think theres that much in the fuel. Maybe Ive just got a heavy foot but I could get 20-25mpg out of the 120!!

I dont believe the hg is a big risk Ive had 4 K-series based cars only one that had issues was the KV6 when I first got it.

jamesc777 · 05-05-11, 04:27 PM

heavy foot my lad,

30mpg and thats all short, 38 ish longer routs.

lawrence-zs180 · 05-05-11, 04:36 PM

I was gonna say.. christ I get 21-25 out of the 180 that would not make it worth it... but 34-38 sounds better.

Jay-ZS+ · 05-05-11, 04:41 PM

Id just go cat back as do blame the decat and manis, for reduced back pressure and an increase in fuel pouring through.

But certianly remember calculating getting 24mpg. Before anyone says I double and tripple checked it as I was shocked too.

Ritchy · 05-05-11, 04:51 PM

head gasket is one of those things that can just happen, believe its more age related than mileage, look at the colour of the coolant and make sure its clean, if its dirty then get him to take a chunk off the price and stick it aside, id say the head gasket is far less of an issue on the k series than the timing belts are on the v6, if that lates guy is near you he could probably even come out and do it in your works car park id imagine not a very hard job.
mk2 is obviosly when the cutbacks started really hitting back, so look for things like the fuel tank, make sure there is no deep rust on it, would expect a certain amount of surface rust though, and the filler neck, pull the cap off and make sure it isnt rusty where the seal goes, this is because they dont have the splash guard...probably not as much of an issue down south as up here, make sure all the electrics work, the mk2 has an scu, which tbh isnt a common thing on the zs to go more on the zr, to every 20 zr's there maybe only one zs because where it sits, but still make sure the hazards, heated rear screen, front fogs are working
door handles probably know as the same with all zs's can be brittle so go round pull them all make sure they arent hanging off
heater resistor make sure setting 1 and 2 are working on the blowers(unless it has climate control)
look at the condition of the radiator, make sure the bottom isnt corroded espiecially where the fan bolts on, theyre at that age now where they can be a bit rotton
exhaust heat shield, they ususally break at the bottom bolt, not a major issue and they dont tend to rattle but its another thing to knock him down on
make sure all the windows go up and down nicely(your checking the regulators)
ull the boot carpet up make sure the spare wheel well is dry, saloon can be prone to water leaks, usually the seams next to the light, or through the bumper clips, again not a big issue to fix but another knock down in price
front exhaust flexi is very short on the mk2's so the outer sheith is prone to splitting, doesnt usually blow but again another knock down, also look at the backbox next to the wheel look for corrosion

thats just a list of things tbh they arent that bad just giving you things to check, i think theyre great cars for the money and theres very little that i work on that i would replace my car with given the choice

Dan1971 · 05-05-11, 04:53 PM

Don't do it ....

You sell your 180 for ?1000
You buy a 120 for ?1800 - then spend ?200 on mods you are about ?1000 down.

A 180 does 25 to the gallon
A 120 does 35 to the gallon

10,000 miles is 400 gallons in the 180 - or 285 gallons in the 120

A gallon of fuel at 1.35 a litre is ?6.10 a gallon.

400 gallons at ?6.10 = ?2440
285 gallons at ?6.10 = ?1738

So - in doing 10,000 miles in a 120 instead of a 180 - you will save roughly - ?700 You'll save a bit on tax and a bit on insurance.

Taking into consideration the 180 grin factor - I don't see the value/savings in doing what you are doing if you are going to add money to your car for a 120.

Run what you have got. But hey - just my opinion.