your opinions

[pete mufc bowker]

theres a mk1 02 plate silver 180 been parked up some1's drive way for along time, anyway knocked on the door and he is saying it has no keys, but has all the paper work, its been sat for a year and a half, so no tax or mot, but im in need of a inlet manifold, and rear brake disks, and prob a few other none important bits, do u think its worth 250 and how hard would it be to get new keys for it, or would i have to change the ignition barrel and door locks, and how do i get round the immobliser if i do that, will i need the ecu of the car i get the barrel and locks from
many thanks pete

[stamford]

Are you buying it to break or to sell on as a possible runner? If buying to break, can you get into it? If so why not drill the ignition barrel off to remove the steering lock in order to get it mobile? Otherwise you'll need matched parts to get it running again, assuming it will. I would do a partial strip to make sure it can crank over before attempting to fire it up.

[pete mufc bowker]

Originally Posted by stamford

Are you buying it to break or to sell on as a possible runner? If buying to break, can you get into it? If so why not drill the ignition barrel off to remove the steering lock in order to get it mobile? Otherwise you'll need matched parts to get it running again, assuming it will. I would do a partial strip to make sure it can crank over before attempting to fire it up.

i just want the inlet manifold and rear disks of it, and then was going to ebay the rest, it aint a problem moving it, had to deal with cars with no keys before (all legal), but it looks a tidy car and would like to hear it running ect, i like the coulor silver over my green, but if i was to change the ignition barrel would i need the ecu of the car the new barrel came from to make the imboliser deactivate, or do i have to get the key re programmed, but i aint got no other key or manuel with code or owt, so im abit baffled

[MG ZS STE]

Seems like an expensive way of obtaining second hand plenum and rear disks to me. A year and half stood, bet the discs look like they've just been dredged up from the bottom of the ocean.

[stamford]

You would need all keys, locks and fobs matched to the ecu so the immobiliser works as it should. You can get them re-programmed but best done as a whole kit of parts.

[peterzs]

What about ZS's car, would that have the keys/ecu????????????

[pete mufc bowker]

Originally Posted by MG ZS STE

Seems like an expensive way of obtaining second hand plenum and rear disks to me. A year and half stood, bet the discs look like they've just been dredged up from the bottom of the ocean.

the disks look fine, not a spot of rust on them, and i was thinking the cost of a new plenium, inlet manifold and vis, will amount to alot more than the cost of the whole car, plus if i dont end up selling the rest of the parts on ebay then i would just weigh it in for 140-160 pound, meaning, i got my disks, plenium, vis's, inlet manifold and a few other bits for 110 pound, which to me seems preety cheap

[pete mufc bowker]

Originally Posted by stamford

You would need all keys, locks and fobs matched to the ecu so the immobiliser works as it should. You can get them re-programmed but best done as a whole kit of parts.

so could i take my barrel/ecu of my zs and put them on the silver zs and it should in theroy start??

[stamford]

Originally Posted by pete mufc bowker

so could i take my barrel/ecu of my zs and put them on the silver zs and it should in theroy start??

I guess so. However take into account old fuel, possibly contaminated including fuel filter, mositure in the engine? Like I said before I would partially strip the engine to expose the bores, lube them, remove the fuel pump relay and then crank it over until the oil light goes out, then think about trying to start it, assuming the fuel is okay.

[pete mufc bowker]

Originally Posted by stamford

I guess so. However take into account old fuel, possibly contaminated including fuel filter, mositure in the engine? Like I said before I would partially strip the engine to expose the bores, lube them, remove the fuel pump relay and then crank it over until the oil light goes out, then think about trying to start it, assuming the fuel is okay.

i get what your saying, and all that will be done, it was just the key/immobliser that was worrying me, off subject, i smashed 1 of my cars up a few years back, and my mum had a p reg 1.6 vtec civic that had been sat on the drive for over 5 years, full of green crap all over it and stunk of damp, i drained the dregs outta the petrol tank, drained the oil and radiator, replaced them all, baught 4 crappy wheels and a new battery, and it started 3rd turn of the key, it blew all the cotton wool lookin stuff outta the exhaust, and there was alot of it, it passed the mot with flying colours and lasted me over a year, now thats what u call build qualty, hope this mg turns out the same lol