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Old 07-08-12, 09:20 PM   #21
stamford
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Still not convinced on that, looks inadequate. But hey ho, it's must do something as they all have it.
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Old 08-08-12, 09:41 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by stamford View Post
Still not convinced on that, looks inadequate. But hey ho, it's must do something as they all have it.
Rave refers to it as a "Dust Shield" !!
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Old 08-08-12, 09:44 AM   #23
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Rave refers to it as a "Dust Shield" !!
Well you learn something new every day, got to admit surprised no one has come across this little thing before.

Anyway, thanks guys, just hopefully give the gearbox and lightened fly a test tonight, assuming the gearbox oil turns up in time.
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Old 08-08-12, 10:25 AM   #24
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Out of interest how did you find the job overall? Anything you would do different or things we ought to be aware of?
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Old 08-08-12, 10:38 AM   #25
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Out of interest how did you find the job overall? Anything you would do different or things we ought to be aware of?
In terms of the gearbox removal, flywheel etc??

Not really, it is a "simple" as removing the drive shafts, and then start unbolting the gearbox.

The long drive shaft, you need to unbolt a bracket and then it just slides out, the short one, I removed the whole CV joint from the gearbox, which is a big pain, but you don't need to do this, you can just remove the CV boot jubilee clip and pull the CV joint from its case, alot easier.

The only bolts I found a pain was the bottom two, as the exhaust gets in the way, you can do it but the bolts don't come fully out, but enough for the gearbox to be released.

You need an impact wrench, or a flywheel locking tool, I did it with a impact wrench, this got the flywheel and clutch off without problems. (Make sure you use brand new bolts for the flywheel and clutch)

The biggest PITA was the gear selector connector pin, that was really stuck in there, had to get a 7mm punch and maahhooossiive hammer to get it to shift.

Putting back was the pain really (physically), I lifted the gear box, by hand from within the engine bay, and then rested it on a sensible sized plateform (a book case in my case). I lowered the engine to match the height of the gearbox, and then using luck and a bit of strength managed to get the gearbox to connect with the engine, its then a case of doing up the bolts, the rave recommends bottom ones first, I would agree with that. I found that one of the guiding pins was reluctant to go in, but once the bottom bolts where nipped up, I could jiggle it a bit more until it slotted in.

Theres not much to it, but you will find that some bolts are really stuck in there, like the gearbox mount ones, that is what took all the time for me, as the time I didn't have the correct size impact sockets and I was waiting for parts for my impact gun, so did it by hand.

Not worst job in the world, but defo a very physical and dirty job if doing it on your own.



PS, move all of the airbox and piping out of the way, it gives you great access to all of the gearbox.

EDIT: Whilst gearbox is out, make sure to your remove all of the clutch arm parts, clean them, grease it all up and put it back it, the difference is just amazing. I probably should do a how too when I get time

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Old 08-08-12, 11:38 AM   #26
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Useful information.

I have been waiting to do mine for months now, been waiting on my back to heal and now the darned weather as I cannot get the zed in my garage!

I've already got the new flywheel bolts, just taken delivery of my new digital torque wrench. Got another gearbox and have already refurbed the fork arm and shaft.

It'll be like having a new car once done.
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