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Old 18-10-17, 05:54 PM   #1
p_b82
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couple of questions

Hi All,

So I've learnt 3 new things this week with the ZS.....

1) Once you go over 1/2 a tank the needle hardly moves at all based on the acceleration and pitch/yaw of the fuel in the tank itself; it has taken a bit longer to crank a couple of times with less than 1/4 a tank of diesel & hiccupped once or twice, so longer term swirlpot solutions will be needed.... for any-one who does the same as me and puts a 180 tank on a diesel....

2) I no longer have washers - it seems the pump has packed in, as there is no noise when I pull the lever.... are these prone to fail, and or is there an easy test for them? Are they on their own fuse circuit?

3) I also have a squeaking fan blower, is there a lube I can use to cure this, or do I just have to accept that it is noisy and/or replace this as well? (and once more even with resistors not the OE coils, number 1 fan setting has packed in again!)

I'm def glad I have a quiet* comfy GT, if the ZS was still my goto car of choice I'd be struggling with the niggles right now!

*quiet in terms of isolation from squeaks, bumps, bongs & rattles rather than engine noise, tho the ZS is louder at low RPM/low throttle openings.....
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Old 18-10-17, 09:28 PM   #2
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1) No idea

2) IIRC they are on a shared circuit - there is a page on here somewhere that has all the fuse details

3) You'll need to drop the fan to see if the bearing is going, the no.1 coil has probably gone as the fan is requiring more power to run.
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Old 19-10-17, 05:20 AM   #3
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2) https://www.themgzs.co.uk/vb/showthread.php?t=30703
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Old 19-10-17, 11:06 AM   #4
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great post Ta
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Old 19-10-17, 01:22 PM   #5
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thanks all - more things to do on the car then!
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Old 19-10-17, 08:46 PM   #6
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Old 28-10-17, 04:12 PM   #7
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Hi all,

So I've got the bumper off to see what I can do about the sagging/fouling front end, and thought I'd look at the washers as it is there and accessible...

But here's the things I'm a little confused about and I hope that some-one can give me a hint.... Or even better tell me

There are two pumps on the washer bottle, one with a white clip and one with a Red clip, with pin orientation different on each one.....

I've got power to the WHITE one when I pull the washer front and back - current drawn when sticking multimeter into the connector.

I have no current when putting it into the RED connector. Is the Red connector the headlamp washer? (don't have them so hoping so!)

Thinking logically, I presume that the white one is the washer, and I removed the pump; it appears to be totally seized when I disassembled it and tried to spin the shaft.

Before I put an order in with RimmerBros (delayed delivery as not on the shelf) can any-one confirm I should replace the WHITE connector pump as per the image below... Or should I try and troubleshoot the RED connector pump having no power...

IF the white one is the one I need to fix, does any-one have a spare lying around for beer tokens?

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Old 28-10-17, 06:29 PM   #8
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Is your car a hatch? Does the red one give power when you spray the rear window?
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Old 28-10-17, 07:31 PM   #9
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As per Sam, the hatch has two pumps.

If one pump is slightly higher that'll be the back one.

I have been tempted to fit a hatch tank to my saloon and fitting one pump to each jet.
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Old 29-10-17, 04:54 PM   #10
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when I use the rear wash, they both draw current on the same white plug!

but nothing comes out....

Why oh why did MGR put different connectors on them?
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Pipercross Filter; Full 2.5" 'Wingy' exhaust; Donny Custom Turbo outlet pipe; Custom injectors;
Uprated gearbox bearings; Helix Clutch; Quaife ATB; Upgraded clutch Hydraulics; FMIC; Ported Head; ARP headstuds; Leda coilovers; 'Brembodge' 326mm disks/DS2500 pads
Dieselpowered
Fitting Custom Hybrid Turbo (1856GTBv) & controller; Remap, swirlpot, lift pump
AMW Motorsports
Custom exhaust manifold & downpipe
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