Charcoal canister

MG ZS STE · 27-09-16, 10:06 PM

Anyone got one, cheap? Has to be off a 180.

I'm getting a recurring error code P0175. I've tried changing the sensor and checking for chafed wires. I'd read somewhere that this could be a clogged charcoal canister so worth a try.

carmadbaker · 28-09-16, 05:35 AM

does it run okay mate? new plugs recently? unburnt fuel getting into the exhaust from somewhere kicking up that code. The charcoal canister only deals with fuel vapour from the fuel tank, so it should affect both banks instead of one if it was playing up.
I would personally be looking down the lines of ignition, short of that a failing sensor (MAP, AIT etc) or perhaps even an air leak… not an easy one pal

MG ZS STE · 28-09-16, 06:44 AM

It doesn't idle very smooth but it's a far from standard car.

ZS · 28-09-16, 10:28 AM

I *think* I have one from a MK1 in the shed...

I am moving house over the next week or so, so will be doing a full sort out of the shed anyway... If I come across it then you are welcome to it

- assuming you still need it when\if I find it.

Sorry I can't be more definite at the moment but I have a load of stuff from the mk1 180 I scrapped left in the shed and can't remember what is there and what is not lol

MG ZS STE · 28-09-16, 12:10 PM

Thanks Sam. its not desperate. Ive done nearly 1000 miles with it like it now. Economy not too bad, im getting about 27MPG, im just having to reset the code each time it comes on. It tends to come on when using the car more for short journeys. I did 2 trips to Coventry last week, about 20 miles each way and the MIL stayed off the whole time. Then i can jump in it to go to the shop down the raod and it will come on. Seems to be happier when cold then when its warmed up to?

Plugs might be a good call. As i havent changed them and doubt the previous owner did. Would i get any other symptons if the plugs were weak?

M17TT180 · 28-09-16, 08:01 PM

Same as 120? I'm breaking one atm

talkingcars · 28-09-16, 08:01 PM

I would be very surprised if it is the canister.
To test unplug it and disconnect the hose to the inlet plugging the hole.

talkingcars · 28-09-16, 08:18 PM

Which sensor have you changed?

Does your OBD2 tool read live data?
I suspect if you read the coolant temp it won't be accurate, it should be around 66' when the needle on the dash gauge starts to move and reach 88' by the time the needle gets to one mark below half way.

MG ZS STE · 28-09-16, 10:35 PM

Thanks James, that's a good shout. In the thread I read on XPF the guy had said he had only unplugged his and it had stopped the fault reoccurring. He hadn't replaced the canister in his last post, but was on the hunt for a new one. He never did update to say whether it had or haven't cured it long term. It was only a long shot, I have read that they can get flooded with fuel if you over fill the tank and take a sharp right turn. Also, if the car has been in an accident (which this one has) the brick can crack making it no longer effective. And as it does form part of the emissions thought worth a shot.

The coolant seems pretty accurate on the scangauge. The needle sits just below half way and barely moves between 90 and 100 centigrade. fans kick in around high nineties upto a hundred bringing it back to 90ish.

I was watching the open close loop cycle on the way home. It stays open on idle, closed when cruising, open when accelerating and slowing down in gear. Will check if when the light comes back on if it stays in closed loop, as it could be chafed wire in the loom?

talkingcars · 29-09-16, 06:09 PM

Default is open loop, yours sounds like it is working as it should.

I have a slight fault on the lambda probe on the rear bank, which, if disturbed, causes the probe to stop reading and it goes open loop, it does fire up a code but I can't remember what it is.

The wiring for the post cat probe is completely broken (and hidden in the sheathing) but it hasn't given a code, it also passed the MOT.

Your coolant temp sounds correct.