track car .Yorkshire.
 

hi all,
thought i would share with you a project that i started about 6 months ago. im currently converting a mg zs 180 mk2 to track car. not got as far as i would like due to work and racing commitments but so far the jobs done are.
car stripped out
sunroof removed and plated
roll cage built and fitted
bucket seats and bases fitted
quick realease steering wheel fitted
induction kit fitted
shockers fitted with new springs 800lb front ,700lb rear

to do
front adjustable upper wishbones to fit
rear camber adjusters to fit
rear lower brace to fit
harnesses to fit
cut out switches etc to fit
fire extinguiser to fit
vinyl wrapping

still to find
tyres (going to run ao48/r888)
decat pipe
upgraded exhaust
brakes to upgrade (discs pads hoses)

hoping to get the car finished around april 2013 and get out on track again.
will try and post some photos and keep you updated with how its going if
anybody is interested.
i know there are a few track cars on here and if you guys could point me in the right direction with ride heights, camber. etc
thanks
shaun (smudge)

:morepics:

Sounds nice though :smile1:

Sounds a lot of work, have to get some pics up.

Best of luck with the rest of it.

:smile1::smile1::smile1::smile1:

Themgzs.co.uk... Soon to have more track cars than road ones!!

Get us some pictures mate and let's see how your getting on :)

apart from the cage your at about the same stage as me. Took mine on track last Friday though for a shake down.

photos as promised

Different to see a MK2 as a track car!!

Looking good! Where did u get a bolt in cage for a zs? One thing you will need to do is get the age welded into the side of the chassis, you'll have loads of flex with it being just into the floor plan, and it will rattle around loads hen driving on track it's amazing how much the chassis will flex. I'll sed u pics of mine. Camber wise you'll be looking for at least. 2-3 degrees on the rear and at least 4 on the front, most standard adjusters only do to about 3.5 on the front. Spring rates could do with a bit heavier 1000 front 800-900 rear. Don't try equal or more on the back as it will handle bad. Ride height don't lower so the rear arm is anything over than horizontal (or driveshafts theres debate on whixh to use as a bench mark) try and stiffen up the front more as no one does this and it needs it. Get your battery moved to the rear. What you racing in? As you can fit 9 ich btcc wheels easy (not allowed in most racing for the zs) but great for track. With the bolt in cage and everything removed ( soundproofing on the floor weighs nearly 15 kilos on a saloon) you'll be down to 1030 kgs ish. Looking good let us know when you're done an ready for the track!

Oh and definately don't use mk2 rims for track, they're so heavy, my 9 inch btcc wheels are nearly 3 or 4 kilos lighter per wheel. Much less unsprung weight to shift which helps in a big way.

great info there.

I would look at a horizontal arm under load rather than driveshaft, but you need to be looking at the pivot points, so the bush vs the ball joint.
when the pivot points are horizontal, you will have the greatest negative camber, as the lca goes past horizontal, camber reduces, so the theory would be to have it an inch or two below horizontal so when its under load it is horizontal thus providing maximum negative camber.
There's roll centres also, but not so easy to put in a few sentances.