Quote:
Originally Posted by redzed
Looking good! Where did u get a bolt in cage for a zs? One thing you will need to do is get the age welded into the side of the chassis, you'll have loads of flex with it being just into the floor plan, and it will rattle around loads hen driving on track it's amazing how much the chassis will flex. I'll sed u pics of mine. Camber wise you'll be looking for at least. 2-3 degrees on the rear and at least 4 on the front, most standard adjusters only do to about 3.5 on the front. Spring rates could do with a bit heavier 1000 front 800-900 rear. Don't try equal or more on the back as it will handle bad. Ride height don't lower so the rear arm is anything over than horizontal (or driveshafts theres debate on whixh to use as a bench mark) try and stiffen up the front more as no one does this and it needs it. Get your battery moved to the rear. What you racing in? As you can fit 9 ich btcc wheels easy (not allowed in most racing for the zs) but great for track. With the bolt in cage and everything removed ( soundproofing on the floor weighs nearly 15 kilos on a saloon) you'll be down to 1030 kgs ish. Looking good let us know when you're done an ready for the track!
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great info there.
I would look at a horizontal arm under load rather than driveshaft, but you need to be looking at the pivot points, so the bush vs the ball joint.
when the pivot points are horizontal, you will have the greatest negative camber, as the lca goes past horizontal, camber reduces, so the theory would be to have it an inch or two below horizontal so when its under load it is horizontal thus providing maximum negative camber.
There's roll centres also, but not so easy to put in a few sentances.
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